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Nick13; Hard to give proper advice without knowing what area you are in . If you are in a mean average winter area of, say zero degrees, then you may require additional insulation.Usually a thickness of 6" will give you an R19 rating. But no less than 4" thick in any case. How thick is what you...

An attic area only needs insulation on the actual floor surface. On an open type of attic with 1 floor the complete floor will be insulated. On a 1-1/2 story, insulation is needed in the joist spaces above the upper level rooms ceilings Also, the Knee walls need insulation ,as do any floor...

Chlanny; Seems to me it's a good plan. Go for it.

Chlanny; Are you saying the FACE of the studs are going to be 6" away from the wall which would make the rear of the stud approx 2 1/2" from the concrete wall? I would hope that it 's not 6" from the REAR of the stud, because that can cut down quite a bit on the overall room size. Anyways, If...

You say there is a vapor barrier on the face of the concrete wall AND also on the face of the studs.? Are you SURE it is a vapor barrier and not a MOISTURE barrier on the concrete? A moisture barrier will BREATHE, while a vapor barrier will not. If this material on the concrete truly is a...

moggy . It would seem that you have adequate venting for the attic. If by chance you do get some major ice damming, then you should look at the insulation to see if it is covering all the surface of the attic floor and also it should be an R value of at least R28. A major cause of ice damming...

moggy; proper attic ventilation has to have air entering at the LOWEST point (soffits) and exiting at the HIGHEST point on the foof (either by a continuous ridge vent or near the peak mushroom type vents) Also, the total sq ft area of these vents have to be aT LEASTenough to ventilate the...

A # 1 spruce 12x8 joist (@ 16" o.c.) will support only up to a 12'-6" span for living areas of up to 40 lbs per sq ft. These existing joists you have (even tho they are a full 2x8 in size) are not strong enough to support this 16' span, and that is why they have sagged. Rather than putting in...

the MAIN CAUSES for water entering a basement are;* ______________________________________________ * no perimeter footing tiles (weepers) (This is most important) * improper grading that will not allow water to run AWAY from building. *lack of eavestroughing (gutter) and/or...

I assume this is a exterior wall since you are using a vapor barrier. As InspectorD suggested, just take the vb down to the floor. The tub will be then installed against the vb without any cutting.

Not only are roof vents needed but also soffit vents are needed. Air enters into the soffits and then exits out the high vents. note; You can NEVER have too much ventilation in an attic area as long as there is sufficient(R value) insulation in the attic floor. Also, if there is adequate...

You would be best to remove this stupid arrangement and install a couple of 90 elbows.Depending on the overall length of this run it may be somewhat restrictive if over 20 ft, but at least this "z" shape(air trap) will not allow any cold air from the outside to come back into the dryer/home...

If I know the heat loss has been calculated correctly by using up to date heat loss/gain methods and also having the proper design temperature for the area, I like to have approx 10 % added. In your case,I suggested 36000 total output, which would be approx 10% more than your calculation. One...

A 40,000 input furnace @ 90 % efficiency will give an output of 36000.

__________________________________________________________ well, naturally you have to look at the situation from above AND below before ever drilling any holes.:cool: By simply using a tape measure at various points from above and below (such as existing items, pipes, partitions,etc) the...

Frst, a word of CAUTION; DO NOTdrill from the bottom up, it can cause splinters that the register flange may not cover. Pencil the size required on the finished floor(from above) then, from above only, drill 2 holes kitty- corner to each other, keeping the edge of the holes within the...

if the ceiling is strapped at 12" or 16" centers, then 3/8" will do. But if the centers are 24" THEN IT WILL EVENTUALLY SAG

For a ducted forced air system to perform properly and efficiently, there must be adequate RETURN air coming into the unit in order to get the proper amount of SUPPLY air out. Cutting off this one return to the upstairs could have a adverse effect on the air supply and comfort to some areas of...