nealtw
Contractor retired
If you have a range and or dryer running from that panel you could run a test before breaking the bank on gear you may not need.:hide:
220v 6.5 air compressor wiring question
- Thread starter kenny6486
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Bottom line is if they require a 60amp breaker for inrush current you need the rest of the circuit capable of taking 60amps. Even if normal operation is only 30. If something fails in the motor and you have a short or partial short and you get a high current condition you need the wire and plugs and outlets heavy enough to stay sound until the current opens the breaker. Nothing is saying when something goes wrong the current will spike suddenly and open the breaker. You have no control over if the motor burns up but that is contained in the motor frame and away from combustibles. Wire and outlets are installed into your building and in contact with combustibles. If all of a sudden your motor starts drawing 59amps it will keep drawing that current indefinitely. The reason I suggested #6 and hardwired or a disconnect / outlet all rated the same as the breaker.
afjes_2016
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Those are the manuals I found online but they don't specify the model # the OP has.
Also the OP has to go with 230V (240V) as 208 is only available with 3 phase set-up.
Neal, not quite sure what you are suggesting here. Please elaborate.
nealtw
Contractor retired
If he has 30 and or 40 amp breakers he can wire to those to see if a 30 or 40 will carry the load before he buys more expensive wire and breakers than he really needs. I think most times the breaker will hold long enough for a compressor to start.
I have a portable that draws 13 amps and runs just fine on a 15 amp breaker and it draws 42 amps on start up.
nealtw
Contractor retired
That is all in how you look at it, the breaker is only rated to protect the wire but if the breaker is closer to what is needed to drive the equipment it is more likely to kick out when the motor starts burning rather than 2 or 3 minutes later.
Here is the link to the site that both the manual and spec sheet were pulled from;
https://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/Puma-PK7060V-Air-Compressor/p11114.html
https://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/manuals/pumabeltdrivemanual2014_2.pdf
If you read through this link you'll find the OP's comp. pictured, and labeled, at the bottom row right and the specs listed at the bottom.
https://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/manuals/pumapk6560vcatalogpage_oct2014.pdf
The OP understands the necessity for the 230V, obviated by the thred heading.
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Another question, if you please; what size is you present main and is the nomenclature tag on your service still available, and legible?
slownsteady
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....starting to sound more like Wuzzat every day :hide::rofl:
afjes_2016
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OP according to online document >> https://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/manuals/pumapk6560vcatalogpage_oct2014.pdf << (bottom) will need to rewire the motor itself for 230 (240v) operation. So he has to make sure he has the instructions for that before energizing the circuit.
I don't see an issue using a 50A plug and receptacle in this case. How is this different than using a 15A GFI in your kitchen or bathroom and putting it on a 20A breaker? I see this done all the time. And by having this unit on a cord and plug, with the breaker in sight, no other means of disconnect is required.
A 60 amp plug or any plug for that matter is not designed to energize or power down under load. We all use a 120v plug as a switch from time to time plugging in the Christmas lights, but I don’t know many people willing to unplug their cloths drier or welder or power up their 60amp inrush air compressor with a 240v plug and socket. I know I don’t.
Really the breaker panel is not designed to be the circuit switch ether, but many people do that. The best suggestion in this thread was afjes_2016 to wire in a proper disconnect switch close to the compressor. If a plug is then needed I would recommend a disconnect switch plug combo that has an interlock. I know that would be overkill for most home garages, but would be the safest and it is the type of heavy current plug and sockets that most industry is moving to.
If something fails and the motor is drawing high current connected to 60amp breaker the last thing I want to reach for to stop it is a 50amp energized plug to pull. Again the inner windings of a modern motor are all made with materials that pass smoke and flame requirements they are capable of cooking themselves to death without bursting into flames. That cant be said for a drier plug mounted to a wood wall or undersized wire for the breaker.
If you want to use a 50amp plug then I would take my chances with a 50amp breaker also.
Really the breaker panel is not designed to be the circuit switch ether, but many people do that. The best suggestion in this thread was afjes_2016 to wire in a proper disconnect switch close to the compressor. If a plug is then needed I would recommend a disconnect switch plug combo that has an interlock. I know that would be overkill for most home garages, but would be the safest and it is the type of heavy current plug and sockets that most industry is moving to.
If something fails and the motor is drawing high current connected to 60amp breaker the last thing I want to reach for to stop it is a 50amp energized plug to pull. Again the inner windings of a modern motor are all made with materials that pass smoke and flame requirements they are capable of cooking themselves to death without bursting into flames. That cant be said for a drier plug mounted to a wood wall or undersized wire for the breaker.
If you want to use a 50amp plug then I would take my chances with a 50amp breaker also.
