Wyr, I know that can be done safely, and have seen videos of it being done, but since I don't know ways it might be done unsafely - that means I can't do it safely. If I get more worried than I am now I will hire a pro. Thanks.
Adding up the total of the breakers is not the way to determine of your service is overloaded.If most slots already filled, is there a concern about the new breaker exceeding the total amp capacity of the box? Thinking about this, I looked at my own box and found it is rated for 200 amps, has 20 slots for breakers, and has 9 breakers totaling 310 amps (including 2@50 amps and 2@40 amps). It has had that configuration for something like 20 years. Should I be on the phone with an electrician?
Wyr you the man! Great Idea. Will do.Looking at the file / photo , you need to connect to 2 hots ( on opposite phases ) , a neutral and an earth ground .
Not per code , but I would , personally put 2 grounds under one screw terminal , on the ground bar and be done with it .
If you have a 2 pole 60 amp circuit breaker that is not being used , I would remove and save it .
Remove the wires from the old circuit breaker ant wire nut / " cap " them . Remove the corresponding earth ground from the ground bar and install the new ground wire there .
Then install a 2 pole 15 o 20 amp circuit breaker to feed the new " filter " . Terminate the hots from the " filter " at the new circuit breaker ( with the CB in the off position ) .
1HandyWomen the pictures you have provided so far are difficult to make out so I will go with what I see from the pictures.The horizontal bar looks like a jumper of something to connect the two side vertical bars that the breakers latch onto.
I am going to have to assume that this is your main panel (since I can not see details of the wires in the panel). I quickly read thru all the posts for this thread to refresh my memory and again picture quality is poor.So I searched their online FAQ page and found this listed under "why have my reading not changed" ...
"A common problem has been that the Neutral wire from the filter was installed on the Ground bar rather than the Neutral bar in the distribution panel".
You do not see any such grounding wire because as I stated earlier THERE IS NO GROUNDING WIRE! This house is NOT grounded.I do not see a large gauge grounding wire in the picture and I "assume" that the ground rod is outside at the meter, which we cannot see. The small sound wires entering at the bottom would not be sufficient by code (I believe requires a 4 AWG ground minimum) to handle a major current flow.
Also, I am not a licensed electrician but have been reviewing the code in preparation for putting a sub panel in my garage. I do not think that the additional wires running through the large coupling on the bottom with the service entrance cables is correct. The breaker'ed circuits should not be in the same conduit or entrance to the panel as the service entrance wires.