Adding a power source outside

Discussion in 'Electrical and Wiring' started by maxdad118, Feb 7, 2019.

Help Support House Repair Talk by donating:

  1. Feb 7, 2019 #1

    maxdad118

    maxdad118

    maxdad118

    JOAMOS

    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2017
    Messages:
    275
    Likes Received:
    51
    So I’m in the stages of adding a tankless water heater outside and currently there is no power source nearby. Can I tie into an existing outlet inside and feed it that way? It’s a stucco wall, can I, or should I use Romex or single wires? Can it go through plastic conduit or should it go through metal conduit? I know it’s got to be gfci so is it as simple as a gfci outlet? My main panel is on the opposite side of the house so I’m trying to avoid it’s own circuit. Not concerned of being up to code but want it safe.
     
  2. Feb 7, 2019 #2

    Snoonyb

    Snoonyb

    Snoonyb

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2006
    Messages:
    3,583
    Likes Received:
    668
    Are you just adding the appliance, or are you also adding a recirc. system?

    You should be able to just do a thru-wall connection. If your existing box is metal it's very easy to add a surface mount box with a pipe nipple, through which you can use individual conductors.

    It's always better if your system is grounded, however the recep will operate anyway.
     
    maxdad118 likes this.
  3. Feb 7, 2019 #3

    maxdad118

    maxdad118

    maxdad118

    JOAMOS

    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2017
    Messages:
    275
    Likes Received:
    51
    No recirc as both bathrooms are close by- not to concerned on water waste there but need the endless hot water feature. So the through hole pipe/nipple you are talking about just exits out the back of the box? Then use single wire conductors?
     
  4. Feb 7, 2019 #4

    afjes_2016

    afjes_2016

    afjes_2016

    Established Member Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2016
    Messages:
    348
    Likes Received:
    160
    Sorry, a bit confused here.

    Are you saying you want to tap into an existing receptacle to power this hot water heater? Most instant hot water heaters are 240 volts and usually requite quite high amp rated two pole circuit breakers.

    Do you have the make and model of the hot water heater that you want to install? If so can you post the electrical requirements for it? Or provide a link to the particular make and model heater.
     
  5. Feb 7, 2019 #5

    Snoonyb

    Snoonyb

    Snoonyb

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2006
    Messages:
    3,583
    Likes Received:
    668
    The OP works for a CA. gas utility, so that's the assumption.

    Yes, thats Idea, however you need yo be aware of the existing box being, conductor overfill.
     
  6. Feb 7, 2019 #6

    maxdad118

    maxdad118

    maxdad118

    JOAMOS

    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2017
    Messages:
    275
    Likes Received:
    51
    Not an electric but NG. 120 volts, I’m still torn about which model I want to get but I think I’ve read somewhere between one and 2 A is used when they’re operating
     
  7. Feb 7, 2019 #7

    Snoonyb

    Snoonyb

    Snoonyb

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2006
    Messages:
    3,583
    Likes Received:
    668
    Like your kitchen appliance, they don't have a standing pilot.

    I've installed both Noritz and Rinnai, as well as repaired/reinstalled a homeowner installed Bosch.
     
    maxdad118 likes this.
  8. Feb 7, 2019 #8

    maxdad118

    maxdad118

    maxdad118

    JOAMOS

    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2017
    Messages:
    275
    Likes Received:
    51
    I realize that but I still need an outlet for the e ign....actually wish they still had them with standing pilots.
     
  9. Feb 7, 2019 #9

    maxdad118

    maxdad118

    maxdad118

    JOAMOS

    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2017
    Messages:
    275
    Likes Received:
    51
    In your experience, which have you preferred? I’ve talked to so many people with different makes and they all just say, I love it! A handful of people say they want the tank back. Misinformed that it was ‘instant hot’, not the case. It’s not for everyone but I need one.
     
  10. Feb 8, 2019 #10

    Snoonyb

    Snoonyb

    Snoonyb

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2006
    Messages:
    3,583
    Likes Received:
    668
    The nanny state is saving you the cost of a standing pilot, AND, saving the delta smelt, aren't you happy.

    They all actually worked fine in their praticular application, IE. size, distance to outlet served and mineral content of water.

    The Noritz was the largest and served 3 baths, 2 were 75+' from, a disassociated 1/2, laundry and kitchen with 2 FP dishwashers. The recirc. was programed for 30min. prior to anticipated need. It also required a 1" NG supply.
     
    maxdad118 likes this.
  11. Feb 12, 2019 #11

    maxdad118

    maxdad118

    maxdad118

    JOAMOS

    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2017
    Messages:
    275
    Likes Received:
    51
    Got a few electrician friends I can ask to get advice but not paying to have it done. I realize safety is first. Not trying to overload a circuit or burn my house down- I get it. Thanks
     
  12. Feb 12, 2019 #12

    Snoonyb

    Snoonyb

    Snoonyb

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2006
    Messages:
    3,583
    Likes Received:
    668
    The draw is similar to the pilot on you range.
     
    maxdad118 likes this.
  13. Mar 22, 2019 #13

    maxdad118

    maxdad118

    maxdad118

    JOAMOS

    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2017
    Messages:
    275
    Likes Received:
    51
    I think I have a plan, an existing outlet in the bathroom I will turn into a junction box. From here I will connect romex and go through the floor to the crawlspace run it close to the exterior wall and put another junction box. From that junction box I will go to rigid conduit through the stucco and over to my tankless location. Does this seem like the proper way to do it? Or should I get the flexible conduit with the wire inside of it?
     
  14. Mar 23, 2019 #14

    Snoonyb

    Snoonyb

    Snoonyb

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2006
    Messages:
    3,583
    Likes Received:
    668
    The bathroom recp. should be a GFCI, so be careful not to connect to the load side.

    MC is general recommended for damp location, like porch fixtures in a soffit, but if you are more comfortable with it, then OK.
     
  15. Mar 23, 2019 #15

    James Holske

    James Holske

    James Holske

    New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2019
    Messages:
    4
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Boston, M.A.
    Yes you can do this and it will function as long as like was stated before .... “ you don’t connect to the load side “ on the gfci .
    The only thing that is wrong about this is the fact it is against the national electrical code .
    The code states that bathroom GFCI’s be on a dedicated circuit . You may feed multiple bathroom GFCI’s , but clearly states it be used only for these bathroom GFCI’s.
    The section does have an exception but it states even in the exception it cannot leave the bathroom
    “Exception: Where the 20-ampere circuit supplies a single bathroom, outlets for other equipment within the same bathroom shall be permitted to be supplied in accordance with”

    You could possibly have a local state amendment to this ? Or your local inspector being the authority having jurisdiction can interpret the code and allow their own exceptions
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2019
  16. Mar 23, 2019 #16

    maxdad118

    maxdad118

    maxdad118

    JOAMOS

    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2017
    Messages:
    275
    Likes Received:
    51
    I just read up on the flexible conduit and it appears to be for indoor use. I’ll go with rigid. I’m assuming I will have to have a j box in my crawl space to transition from romex to single wire before going through the conduit.
     
  17. Mar 23, 2019 #17

    Snoonyb

    Snoonyb

    Snoonyb

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2006
    Messages:
    3,583
    Likes Received:
    668
    Also, something I had forgotten. because I've been working on slab foundation dwellings for a decade or two, any under floor "J" box must be within 25' of a recognized under floor access.

    Since we had been discussing rigid in the past, I had assumed you were intending to use the MC cable from the "J" box to the rigid.
     
  18. Mar 23, 2019 #18

    maxdad118

    maxdad118

    maxdad118

    JOAMOS

    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2017
    Messages:
    275
    Likes Received:
    51
    The junction box will be within 5 ft of the crawl space access and MC is what? Metal conduit?
     
  19. Mar 23, 2019 #19

    Snoonyb

    Snoonyb

    Snoonyb

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2006
    Messages:
    3,583
    Likes Received:
    668
    maxdad118 likes this.
  20. Mar 24, 2019 #20

    maxdad118

    maxdad118

    maxdad118

    JOAMOS

    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2017
    Messages:
    275
    Likes Received:
    51
    Next question: is it recommended to use a metal or plastic box for a junction box and I have some rolls of 12 gauge stranded copper wire from a previous job, can this be used or is solid strand(1) what I need to use?
     

Share This Page