Adding a power source outside

Discussion in 'Electrical and Wiring' started by maxdad118, Feb 7, 2019.

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  1. Feb 7, 2019 #1

    maxdad118

    maxdad118

    maxdad118

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    So I’m in the stages of adding a tankless water heater outside and currently there is no power source nearby. Can I tie into an existing outlet inside and feed it that way? It’s a stucco wall, can I, or should I use Romex or single wires? Can it go through plastic conduit or should it go through metal conduit? I know it’s got to be gfci so is it as simple as a gfci outlet? My main panel is on the opposite side of the house so I’m trying to avoid it’s own circuit. Not concerned of being up to code but want it safe.
     
  2. Feb 7, 2019 #2

    Snoonyb

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    Are you just adding the appliance, or are you also adding a recirc. system?

    You should be able to just do a thru-wall connection. If your existing box is metal it's very easy to add a surface mount box with a pipe nipple, through which you can use individual conductors.

    It's always better if your system is grounded, however the recep will operate anyway.
     
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  3. Feb 7, 2019 #3

    maxdad118

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    No recirc as both bathrooms are close by- not to concerned on water waste there but need the endless hot water feature. So the through hole pipe/nipple you are talking about just exits out the back of the box? Then use single wire conductors?
     
  4. Feb 7, 2019 #4

    afjes_2016

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    Sorry, a bit confused here.

    Are you saying you want to tap into an existing receptacle to power this hot water heater? Most instant hot water heaters are 240 volts and usually requite quite high amp rated two pole circuit breakers.

    Do you have the make and model of the hot water heater that you want to install? If so can you post the electrical requirements for it? Or provide a link to the particular make and model heater.
     
  5. Feb 7, 2019 #5

    Snoonyb

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    The OP works for a CA. gas utility, so that's the assumption.

    Yes, thats Idea, however you need yo be aware of the existing box being, conductor overfill.
     
  6. Feb 7, 2019 #6

    maxdad118

    maxdad118

    maxdad118

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    Not an electric but NG. 120 volts, I’m still torn about which model I want to get but I think I’ve read somewhere between one and 2 A is used when they’re operating
     
  7. Feb 7, 2019 #7

    Snoonyb

    Snoonyb

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    Like your kitchen appliance, they don't have a standing pilot.

    I've installed both Noritz and Rinnai, as well as repaired/reinstalled a homeowner installed Bosch.
     
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  8. Feb 7, 2019 #8

    maxdad118

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    I realize that but I still need an outlet for the e ign....actually wish they still had them with standing pilots.
     
  9. Feb 7, 2019 #9

    maxdad118

    maxdad118

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    In your experience, which have you preferred? I’ve talked to so many people with different makes and they all just say, I love it! A handful of people say they want the tank back. Misinformed that it was ‘instant hot’, not the case. It’s not for everyone but I need one.
     
  10. Feb 8, 2019 #10

    Snoonyb

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    The nanny state is saving you the cost of a standing pilot, AND, saving the delta smelt, aren't you happy.

    They all actually worked fine in their praticular application, IE. size, distance to outlet served and mineral content of water.

    The Noritz was the largest and served 3 baths, 2 were 75+' from, a disassociated 1/2, laundry and kitchen with 2 FP dishwashers. The recirc. was programed for 30min. prior to anticipated need. It also required a 1" NG supply.
     
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  11. Feb 12, 2019 #11

    maxdad118

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    Got a few electrician friends I can ask to get advice but not paying to have it done. I realize safety is first. Not trying to overload a circuit or burn my house down- I get it. Thanks
     
  12. Feb 12, 2019 #12

    Snoonyb

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    The draw is similar to the pilot on you range.
     
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