anyone have plans for sealing up garage doors?

Discussion in 'Walls and Ceilings' started by thegogetter222, Jun 5, 2012.

  1. Jun 5, 2012 #1

    thegogetter222

    thegogetter222

    thegogetter222

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    I'm planning a garage conversion to living space and looking for the rough specs for the proper way to enclose the doors. The one will be completely enclosed (no windows) and the other will be turned into the main entrance of our home. The garage is approx. 1" higher than the driveway with about 10" wide concrete floor where the door sits. This is a pole barn style attached garage with siding on the outside.

    thanks in advance
     
  2. Jun 5, 2012 #2

    kok328

    kok328

    kok328

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    top plate, sill plate, sill seal, stud it out, sheath it, side it, insulate it, vapor barrier, drywall, mud, sand, prime & paint.
    For the other one (?), same but, leave your RO for the door that you plan to install.
    Not sure exactly what your asking.
     
  3. Jun 6, 2012 #3

    CallMeVilla

    CallMeVilla

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    Garage conversions may require a permit because it impacts oss-street parking in some communities. The 1" elevation may also be insufficient for the rainfall in your area. Water splash may hit your siding/wall and cause damage or mold.

    I recently "fixed" a house where the garage had been converted and the stucco ran to ground level. The garage door openings were simply framed with a sill plate as mentioned above. Termites and water damage were obvious.

    We did a good faith effort as follows:

    1. Removed stucco 18" above grade wall to wall on the outside
    2. Removed/replaced damaged studs and sill plate wood (used pressure treated)
    3. Replaced rotted paper. overlapping 4"
    4. Installed "L" flashing along the entire length
    5. Installed 16" 24 gauge galvanized flat flashing wall to wall, overlapping the L-flashing
    6. Installed new weep screed, leaving a 2" margin above the driveway grade.

    The stucco guys applied wire and stucco to finish the job.
     
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  4. Jun 6, 2012 #4

    joecaption

    joecaption

    joecaption

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    Post a picture of what you have.
    It's best to remove the aprin, for looks and to not have water splashing back up from hitting it.
    In most garages you can lay a row of block and build your wall on top of that. That would get the wall high enought to keep it dry and not let water in under the wall.

    Short of that I use a piece of 1 X 6 vinyl lumber at the bottom of the wall set in a bed of silicone between the concrete and the vinyl. A piece of Z moulding on top of that, then the sheating.
     
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  5. Jun 6, 2012 #5

    thegogetter222

    thegogetter222

    thegogetter222

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    Gotcha, thank you guys. I'll certainly take the advice and remove the bottom row for siding and check for any mold, rot, or water damage. I think I'll then take the L-flashing and silicon barrier then lay 6block in the door openings with adhesive and more silicon sealant.

    All very good guidance above. thank you very much! Once i begin the project I'll post pics. I'm just about finished wrapping up the loose ends with quotes and material needed for full project scope.
     
  6. Jun 7, 2012 #6

    joecaption

    joecaption

    joecaption

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    Block is layed with morter, not "adhesive".
    If you do lay the row of blocks there is no need for all the extra steps to waterproof the bottom of the wall.
     
  7. Jun 7, 2012 #7

    thegogetter222

    thegogetter222

    thegogetter222

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    yes, correct. thanks for the clarification Joe.

    My plan for the L flashing across the entire front is to address any gaps between the block and the 6x6 or 4x4 inside corner posts. How do I ensure that area is water tight?
     
  8. Jun 8, 2012 #8

    joecaption

    joecaption

    joecaption

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    Without a picture it's hard to say.
     

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