Architectural Shingles Question

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The cellophane doesn't need removed. Check with the manufacturers and you'll find it doesn't need removed.


I have seen many people leave the strips and say exactly what the video says. They also put the starter course on upside down. I learned right or wrong to trim the tabs off the starter strip and pull the tape off and I have always had good luck with that bonding the first row down.



If it works there I figured it would work all the way up the roof. I was taught always hand nail and never staple or power nail but that is also long gone. The reason I was told to hand nail is you then know the nail went into solid roofing.



After a hurricane you see whole rows of nails shot into sheathing where a truss was supposed to be but they missed etc. There is something to be said for hand nailing and the feed back.



The biggest problem with the plastic strips is they blow around if you let them drop. Like the link shows lots of what I learned went back to the old days.



This is pretty much how I do it but he has the strips removed already.



 
I wouldn't touch doing a repair on a 20 year old roof. Too many opportunities to create more problems as you're fixing the others. 20 year old shingles are just too brittle to do any repairs on or around them.
I asked the last roofer I got a bid from to estimate for shingling over the existing shingles. They are single layer, so he said he could definitely do another layer over the existing ones. He also said my roof was flat and the shingles looked flat, so they were a good candidate for roofing over with a second layer. He said, "that should save you several thousand dollars". I was excited about that, only to get his bid and it came in 3K over the other two roofers I got bids from! Anyway, at this point I am going to get bids for shingling over existing shingles, because that will add a double layer of protection and also insulation to my roof (I live in a very hot climate). It will save on the roofer having to rent a big dumpster to throw all the old shingles into, and avoid a lot of mess. My dad did a couple of roofs in the past and he always had it done with re-shingling over existing shingles. As far as doing spot repairs go, I am still looking at that also. Even if it costs 3-5K, that's better than the 11-15K I am getting for a full re-roofing job.
 
Make sure you don't void the warranty on the new shingles by laying a new layer of shingles on the top. It is not best practice to reroof over the old shingles. Insulation value is minimal. The added weight is significant. Fortunately, snow fall isn't a problem in Las Vegas.
 
The extra layer, does little or nothing, for the insulation value, however, attic ventilation will mitigate the heating.

You see, air is the fungible component of any present building insulator, so an additional layer of roofing will reduce the heat loss where roof sheeting, exposed to the attic air conveys that heat component, then thru the roofing, too the open air space, for dissipation, into the atmosphere.
 
Sorry if mentioned, I don't have time to read it all right now... Do you have an extreme amount of shedding showing up in your gutters? If so, you could have a warranty claim, even if you aren't the original owner. My neighbor and I dug out a long afternoon worth of granules from her gutters, and it ended up being covered by a faulty lawsuit and she got the complete replacement for free.
 
Make sure you don't void the warranty on the new shingles by laying a new layer of shingles on the top.
I've never worried about shingle warranties as 25 - 40 years later almost all the earlier people/companies are out of business... plus I never follow the installations instructions to the letter because they usually involve throwing away 10 - 25% of the new shingles material...
 
A quick look at Lowes.com shows 3 tab shingles have 25 year warranties, while architectural shingles have a "limited lifetime" warranty with no number of years listed.

Architectural shingles are heavier and withstand high winds better than three tabs. They also look better on OSB roofs that can dip between roof trusses when spaced at 22" OC, fairly common in tract built homes of the last 30 years. The price difference between a 3 tab and an architectural shingle is less than $10/hundred square feet. $2-5 per bundle. I'd go with architectural shingles every time.
Why 22" centers, that wouldn't be modular for sheathing?
 
Why 22" centers, that wouldn't be modular for sheathing?
Garages sometimes are on 24" centers, maybe in places without snow weight, but houses usually have to be 16"... I would avoid any that aren't... 22" is new to me if true...
 
Garages sometimes are on 24" centers, maybe in places without snow weight, but houses usually have to be 16"... I would avoid any that aren't... 22" is new to me if true...
Sorry, it is 19.2" for trusses. You can get by with 5 trusses on a 8' sheet by spacing them at 19.2" OC. One less than 16" OC and one more than 24" OC.


See here. Tape Measure Markings Diamond Shapes On Measuring Tape
 
To update, I'm continuing the search with the bidding process....out of 5 bids received, only one would agree to shingle over existing shingles. He got my hopes up by saying this would save me "thousands", plus, he wouldn't have to rent a dumpster to throw all the old shingles into. But his bid came in at the HIGHEST of the 5! So that was pretty disappointing. I can't understand why his bid would be the highest, when he, himself, said it would "save me thousands" to shingle over. Another guy I talked to said that it was a "code violation" to shingle over old shingles. This is not true. The codes in my area clearly state that two layers is permissible. When I told him that it is not a code violation, he immediately reversed and said, "well, I just don't like to do it". Then why not say that instead of making a false claim that two layers of shingle is a "code violation". This is the kind of stuff I'm dealing with. After a couple more of these bids, I will contact a handyman repair place and see what they can do to repair spot areas. I don't have 11K to 15K or more to put on a whole new roof at the moment.
 
Make sure you don't void the warranty on the new shingles by laying a new layer of shingles on the top. It is not best practice to reroof over the old shingles. Insulation value is minimal. The added weight is significant. Fortunately, snow fall isn't a problem in Las Vegas.
As indicated, my dad had two roofs done in the 90's and there was never any concern on the part of any roofer about voiding a warranty and he never had any problem with the roofs that had a layer of shingles over the old shingles. In fact, this seemed to have been the standard way many homeowners did a roof job, which saved money and the mess of completely tearing off all the shingles. Also, there is a potential downside to tearing off all the shingles, of creating new areas of damage, holes, problems, etc. No one mentions that, but it can create new problems and leaks. In my opinion, this resistance to shingling over existing shingles is just a way to charge homeowners more. It used to be a very very standard practice with no problems and I feel that all the roofers have decided to refuse to do any spot repairs and refuse to shingle over existing shingles as a way to up the prices and create a situation where homeowners have less and less options in this area of home maintenance.
 
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