Attic ceiling drywall installation

Discussion in 'Walls and Ceilings' started by python01, Apr 11, 2016.

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  1. Apr 11, 2016 #1

    python01

    python01

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    I had third floor addition framed. The roof at the back of the house is cottage style. The way they framed the cathedral ceiling is that the corner rafters is sticking out more than the others. I am attaching pictures to show what I mean.
    I wonder what should I do to properly hang the drywall so it is installed properly. Hopefully I don't have to beef up the rafters that are on the ceiling to make them equal with the corner rafters.
     
  2. Apr 11, 2016 #2

    nealtw

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    Could not access your photos.
    Usually you do frame the rafters down to match the hips but you could drywall up to them and dress them but the bigger problem is insulation and venting above that. This is always a problem in a hip roof because there is no clear path for the air to get to the peak.
     
  3. Apr 11, 2016 #3

    Snoonyb

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    Correct. Please introduce the OP to this sites photo publishing service.
     
  4. Apr 11, 2016 #4

    python01

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    Hopefully the pictures will show up now.

    CeilingJoists1.jpg

    CeilingJoist2.jpg
     
  5. Apr 12, 2016 #5

    nealtw

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    So to do this with out future problems, You want 6" of insulation min. and about 1 1/2" space above that so air can move from the soffet to the peak and out. The best way to do that is to remove the shingles over the ridge of the hip, cut back the plywood a little and replace the shingle with ridge venting and add a 2x3 or 2x4 to the bottom of the rafters to give you the required space.

    I know you didn't really want all that but it is what it is.:(
     
  6. Apr 12, 2016 #6

    slownsteady

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    That's assuming that the framing is 2x6 ?
     
  7. Apr 12, 2016 #7

    python01

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    The framing is 2x6
     
  8. Apr 12, 2016 #8

    nealtw

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    you can't tell?
     
  9. Apr 12, 2016 #9

    bud16415

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    Looks like 1.5 x5.5 to me. :)
     
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  10. Apr 12, 2016 #10

    Snoonyb

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    And the downside for us, when the OP tells the whole story, is................

    Assume, makes an *** out of U and ME.
     
  11. Apr 12, 2016 #11

    slownsteady

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    Back to the original question: assuming (yes, there's that word again) that you were going to just close it up, I might smooth and stain the corner boards and leave them exposed. Depending on the decor you're going for, it could look nice.
     
  12. Apr 12, 2016 #12

    Snoonyb

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    The photo's in msg. #4 indicate that there may already be an EPS insulboard under the roofing and if this is true the batt insulation can be forgone and just the standard 2x8 hip need to be addressed.
     
  13. Apr 12, 2016 #13

    python01

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    There is no insulation right now but it is going to be sprayed foam which I need just enough to fill the space between rafters so I was told by the architect who designed the addition that with spray foam I will not need to ventilate that space so I was planning to use solid soffit.
    Am I completely wrong?
     
  14. Apr 12, 2016 #14

    Snoonyb

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    Thanks.

    I'd be more inclined to vent the soffit, because of your geographical location.
     
  15. Apr 12, 2016 #15

    bud16415

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    Like Paul Harvey used to say and now you know the rest of the story. :)
     
  16. Apr 12, 2016 #16

    Snoonyb

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    You have any number of methods available in addressing, not just the hip rafters, but architecturally the whole ceiling, from coped, boxed and indirect lighting.

    Plan ahead.
     
  17. Apr 12, 2016 #17

    nealtw

    nealtw

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    What is the roofing above, I think some perform better than others.
     
  18. Apr 15, 2016 #18

    python01

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    The boards visible in the picture is the roof, there are only shingles above it.

    Walter.
     
  19. Apr 15, 2016 #19

    nealtw

    nealtw

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    Confussed? What keeps the water out?
     
  20. Apr 15, 2016 #20

    python01

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    shingles? This is attic.
     

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