Automatic Gate Openers ?

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Chris said:
No need to keep the battery completely dry. It shouldn't effect it
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Thank you!
I just want to make sure it doesn't get saturated because we get so much rain here. Of course, there is also the concern that a plastic box might lock moisture in, but hopefully that won't bug it too much-- sort of like how my truck's battery lasts ok.
I think just buying a pre-made box would be easier for me than building a wooden box. There is a high spot right next to the gate that I can set the box on. I'm debating between the boxes with the exterior terminals I can hook to, or one that has a wire running out (meant for a camera) or one with holes in the sides. I'm sort of leaning toward marine grade battery just because of the humidity/rain in this area.

I do have some questions:
1. Did you use the default screws that came with it or did you buy other ones?
2. Would automotive conduit work for protecting the wire underground or would I need something else?
3. How deep should I bury the wire? (It will be going under the dirt driveway
4. Any suggestions/recommendations on how to deal with delivery trucks or unannounced guests?
5. Have you ever set up any of the keypads/intercom systems? If so, are they worth it?
6. Have you ever installed it with the locking mechanism? Any tips or advice on that (things to avoid doing, etc).

My goal is to make it so delivery people can bring stuff in. Kinda wishing there was some sort of buzzer doorbell option that could be heard throughout the house and we could look out to see who is there and let them in. I also want to allow a couple of friends to be able to enter and leave on their own. I've ruled out a ground sensor for departing because my fat cows would probably trigger it.

Editing to add: If the included wire for the system isn't long enough, I'm thinking of getting this Mighty Mule 100' 16 gauge wire.
 
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zannej said:
Thank you!
I just want to make sure it doesn't get saturated because we get so much rain here. Of course, there is also the concern that a plastic box might lock moisture in, but hopefully that won't bug it too much-- sort of like how my truck's battery lasts ok.
I think just buying a pre-made box would be easier for me than building a wooden box. There is a high spot right next to the gate that I can set the box on. I'm debating between the boxes with the exterior terminals I can hook to, or one that has a wire running out (meant for a camera) or one with holes in the sides. I'm sort of leaning toward marine grade battery just because of the humidity/rain in this area.

I do have some questions:
1. Did you use the default screws that came with it or did you buy other ones? I used all the original hardware with no issues,
mine was a double gate
2. Would automotive conduit work for protecting the wire underground or would I need something else? I would use regular PVC Conduit
3. How deep should I bury the wire? (It will be going under the dirt driveway
At least 4-6 inches if it is stable, if it gets soft go more,
realistically a foot or more would be best
4. Any suggestions/recommendations on how to deal with delivery trucks or unannounced guests?
I had a keypad outside which is also wireless and on the inside I did the wand for auto exit, I gave my delivery guy a code.
5. Have you ever set up any of the keypads/intercom systems? If so, are they worth it? Keypads are worth every penny and you can buy all those accessories on Amazon for much less than retail, GTO is the same company and cheaper, it all works together
6. Have you ever installed it with the locking mechanism? Any tips or advice on that (things to avoid doing, etc).I didn't bother, unless you wanted to break everything you are not going to push it open and if you were trying to break in that little lock is not going to stop you

My goal is to make it so delivery people can bring stuff in. Kinda wishing there was some sort of buzzer doorbell option that could be heard throughout the house and we could look out to see who is there and let them in. I also want to allow a couple of friends to be able to enter and leave on their own. I've ruled out a ground sensor for departing because my fat cows would probably trigger it.

Editing to add: If the included wire for the system isn't long enough, I'm thinking of getting this Mighty Mule 100' 16 gauge wire.
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With the keypad you can set several codes for friends and also set temporary codes for if you are gone for the weekend or only want someone to come in once. If you don't want to spend the money on the wand for the exit you can just mount a push button on a post like a keypad or a second keypad inside. I liked the wand but it took some setting up to get it to work proper. All in all their stuff is not commercial quality but I never had much of an issue with it and my neighbor had theirs for many years trouble free. I cut the annoying beeper wire that beeps every time it closes as a warning.
 
As for the wire it is the same as thermostat wire for a home but they charge three times the cost. I pay about 12 cents a foot for my wire at true value.
 
Thanks, Chris. I just read that the wire I wanted to use says it can be buried underground as-is, but I would definitely want to put PVC around it where it is exposed. Mighty Mule got back to me on the battery and said "Any 12-Volt Automotive or Marine Type Battery that produces a minimum of 250 cold cranking amps (CCA) placed in a battery box". I'm not sure how to find the cold cranking amps listing, but I'll look at Walmart when I go to the automotive section to get my tires today.

Do you have a link to any particular wire?

GTO brand? Ok. I'll have to look up that stuff. I wonder if I could have something in multiple rooms in the house that would make a noise when someone is at the gate requesting entry. Never sure which room someone will be in and want to make sure it is heard.

I really like the idea of a keypad on the outside and a button (that isn't easy to reach for potential trespassers on the outside) on the inside to let friends out. I can probably give a remote to my best friend. My mother is unlikely to need the keyfob remote since I can set up the Homelink for it. (Posting the link in case I lose it and need to find it again).

The ground closest to the gate on the side where the opener will be is a clay and sandy loam mix. Driveway is rather sandy/soft, so I will probably go deeper under the driveway.

I wonder if there is a hand tool with long handle that is good for digging that type of trench-- Since it will be narrow, no need for a huge wide hole. I'll check the garden center at Walmart later as well. Might even hit up Tractor Supply if Walmart doesn't have anything.
 
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Chris said:
Any car battery will have at least 250 cranking amps
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Yeah, I was checking out the selection at Walmart today- they had a bunch of overpriced ones. But, the nice thing was, the CCA and size were on the side of the batteries in very large font. They had a cheap battery box but it had holes in the top for venting and no holes for wires. I'm hoping to find one with no vents on top and that has room for wires on the side.
Saw a tool for digging at Walmart but handle really sucked. I'm going to Alexandria tomorrow to take my friend up to find some clothes for his father's funeral and am hoping to hit the walmart up there bc they have a larger selection. Didn't get to go to Tractor Supply.

Another thing I just thought of is that I should have some sort of lighting at the gate for people to read the keypad at night. I think a simple LED that can run off the battery and maybe be turned on with a sensor or timer might be ok. Although, I wonder if that would drain the battery too much?
 
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My buddy told me that his workplace (O'Reilly's) has batteries and boxes in stock-- but he's not planning to show his face there for a few days since he's on bereavement leave.

I realized that in one of my earlier posts there was a battery for about $13 but I don't know the CCA on it or if it would work with this particular opener. Waiting to get a response on it.

I was reading reviews of the FM137 keypad and people were saying you can wire it for signal but not for power and it would still need 3 AA batteries. I want to wire it for power, so I'm trying to find out if that can be done.

I believe the wire I need is 16/2. HD sells it for 0.36¢ per foot and if I bring Mom I get 10% military discount. I do need to measure the distance to where I want to put in the panel and then factor in extra feet for going up the pole. I believe it's more than 50ft from the gate, but not sure by how much. I'm thinking 100ft to be safe. Amazon sells a pre-packaged 100ft one. But the HD stuff would come in a little cheaper.

When I looked for thermostat wire I just got stuff that was really expensive in the list. So I figured landscaping wire would work.

I have some old metal railroad ties/I-beams and I could put one under the gate (buried in the ground) covering the wire to the keypad/button if I can find one that can work while wired for power.

The gate opener was delivered last night. Now we just need to get the rest of the stuff to make it work. I need to examine that main gate post and see if it can be stabilized rather than replaced. Would make things a lot easier that way.
 
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nealtw said:
Our key pad has worked for 9 years, still on the same batteries.
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Is it the FM137 one? And is it backlit? I've just had some bad experiences with batteries going south quickly around here. It takes 3AA ones-- Is that what yours used?

If the batteries will last, I suppose I won't need to run wires to the FM137.

On the inside I can have this button (which I will probably put under some sort of cover to keep it out of the rain) and I will have it in a spot that people can't just reach around and press from the outside.

Edit: Just had an epiphany of sorts. Since Fedex/UPS drivers normally get out on the right, I could mount the keypad on the right and maybe I could program it with temporary keypad code or one specifically for deliveries and leave that code with delivery instructions for UPS and FedEx. That way, I wouldn't have to run the wire under the gate. Also, I could mount the cheap doorbell type button on a post inside the yard where someone could reach out their window and push it and then have the gate open inward and they could drive out. I'll have to program it to shut automatically after x number of seconds.

Wonder if it would be a pita to have some sort of chime/sound play inside the house whenever someone opens the gate... If I had something wireless with long range it might work.
 
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Don't know what ours has but it is not backlit. The GF has a back lit one but it has a 9 volt. I changed that once. They are door openers but same thing, most can open either or .
Key fobs will open both but you need special ones for older garage lifts.
If you hard wire it, even to just power it, it will look like the wire could be jumped so you may be asking for damage
The exit button, put that on a post that the driver can reach with out getting out
You can look at wireless door bells too.
https://www.amazon.ca/s/?ie=UTF8&ke...argid=kwd-298093171103&ref=pd_sl_2gwtkt5aza_b
 
Thanks, Neal!
I'm now thinking I should go with a wireless button (on the inside to let people out) mounted on a post or something like this would be good-- I could play around with height to make sure people could reach it from taller vehicles and shorter ones. The reason for wireless is because I can set up the gate lock and opener to operate on the same frequency and it would be less hassle than trying to wire it. Would be less wire and digging.

I like the doorbell idea. I could put it under the keypad. If I could get one set up in the kitchen that rings loudly enough to be heard in the entire house, it would be great. Or maybe I could have small speakers in each room of the house wirelessly linked to the central one. I wonder if my ASUS RT-N66U router could boost signal for the doorbell.

This one looks pretty good. 1300ft range is not bad.
 
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zannej said:
That's why I want to rig it to close after x number of seconds-- say 30 or 45.
Then I could use this Automatic Gate Closes in 30 Seconds sign.
And Automatic Gate Do Not Push Or Climb On Gate sign.

I may be able to make my own out of decent paper (print it out) and laminate it though.
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I have seen closers but the were 120 volt,
I found these instruction. If you are using this on wire fence you will have to put a safety something over the connection to the gate.
Simple to pull a cotter and clevis pins.
https://www.mightymule.com/wp-content/uploads/FM200-Mighty-Mule-gate-opener.pdf
 
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My revised but crappy sketch.
tumblr_p062loOxJG1qkwd9ao2_r1_1280.png


I noticed that neither manual seems to account for mounting to a very thick wood post (like the kind used for power poles) so I'll have to make sure I secure it all properly.

Read that mfr recommends 10w solar panel for the gate lock in conjunction with the opener, but the kit came with 5w. Since the wattage of the panel doesn't directly affect it, I hope the 5w will be sufficient. So long as the battery stores enough juice and re-charges at a decent rate, it should be ok. I hope.
 
nealtw said:
Brackets will work on a post, just change out the bolts for lags.
https://www.homedepot.com/b/Hardware-Fasteners-Bolts-Lag-Bolts/5-16-in/N-5yc1vZc2haZ1z0sfzu
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Thanks! I'm thinking of using 6 of them total (along with washers) in the slots to make sure it's very secure.
I hope the pole being rounded doesn't create problems. I might need to add shims of some sort behind to make it flat.

Would zinc plated be ok or should I go for a different metal?

I'm thinking 6 of these https://www.homedepot.com/p/SPAX-5-...ant-Coating-Lag-Screw-4571820801007/202041045

or a pack of these that are zinc-plated and 5" long https://www.homedepot.com/p/5-16-in-x-5-in-Zinc-Lag-Screw-25-Pack-801500/204282508
 
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