Barnwood table support

Discussion in 'Carpentry and Woodworking' started by cibula11, Apr 6, 2009.

  1. Apr 6, 2009 #1

    cibula11

    cibula11

    cibula11

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    I've got a project that I've received several bits of advice. I have some 100 yr. old 2x8 lumber that I will be using to construct a rustic/modern kitchen table. I know that I need to make sure I have the edges nice and square so that I can glue and clamp the edges together (the width will be somewhere around 30").

    1.) I've been told I won't need dowels or biscuits because it won't add strength, which is fine, but the legs I'm using are "U" shaped and will only be supporting the outer two boards. Is that correct?

    2.)Do I need a cross piece to run perpendicular underneath the table top. Or do I just assume to glue and clamping process will be sturdy enough? I know that the top is going to be bulky but I don't want an apron. The table will look similar to this....actually pretty identical, same legs an
    all.

    FO9JGEYFMEGA9F5.THUMB.jpg
     
  2. Apr 6, 2009 #2

    Quattro

    Quattro

    Quattro

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    Properly glued and clamped pieces are very strong, but I wouldn't build it without perpendicular support. Why not add something that goes across the bottom of the table where the legs attach? Or, flip the legs over so the horizontal part is in contact with the bottom of the table?
     
  3. Apr 6, 2009 #3

    cibula11

    cibula11

    cibula11

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    That's an idea. Thanks. Do you think I'd be safe with just two perpendicular supports (one where the legs are) or would I need more than that?

    I've thought about a steel "L" rod that would attach and not be too low (I just don't want to see it from above), but do I need something more solid than an "L" shaped steel piece or flat piece? I'd like to stay away from an apron if I could. I like the idea of flipping the legs though.
     
  4. Apr 6, 2009 #4

    inspectorD

    inspectorD

    inspectorD

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    The table you showed, could the legs be a box of metal?
    Meaning you build a square set, attach the top with bolts and still see the bottom.
    You may need some additional full angle support at the top edge.
    Hope this helps.
    ____
    |_|

    I have had a local guy fabricate a set of legs I drew up for a job. It worked out to be 200 bucks painted.:D
     
  5. Apr 6, 2009 #5

    cibula11

    cibula11

    cibula11

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    The legs are actually from IKEA. I have those bought. I'm now looking for way to add the cross bracing and something that doesn't show too low. I'm guessing I could find some angle iron with holes drilled in it and attach that to the table and legs.
     
  6. Apr 7, 2009 #6

    inspectorD

    inspectorD

    inspectorD

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    Sure, sounds like a plan. Don't forget, if it does not work....you can always try again with a little more support.:)
     
  7. Apr 7, 2009 #7

    Quattro

    Quattro

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    I would think a few pieces of 1/4" angle iron (the "L" shaped steel you are describing) would work just fine. Fasten to the underside of the table with short fat wood screws so you don't see any thing from the top. And you wouldn't have to go edge to edge with the steel either...so it wouldn't be noticeable from the side of the table while standing or sitting. Just be sure to take off any sharp edges with a grinder first! Nothing like getting stuck in the knee while pulling your chair in...
     
  8. Apr 7, 2009 #8

    cibula11

    cibula11

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    Is titebond the way to go for glue, or is there something better?

    What about clamping. Ratchet clamp, bar clamp, pipe clamp?
     
  9. Apr 8, 2009 #9

    inspectorD

    inspectorD

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    your on the right path. Tightbond is fine. I do recommend pipe clamps, it will not turn or warp as bad.
    Have fun.:)
     
  10. Apr 8, 2009 #10

    cibula11

    cibula11

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    Thanks for all your help. Do I just get some steel pipe with threaded ends that match the size of clamps (either 1/2 or 3/4")? I found some on EBAY for about $35, then I'll have to buy the pipe at HD or Lowes. Unless there is another option on buying pipe??
     
  11. Apr 10, 2009 #11

    cibula11

    cibula11

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    I looked at some flat steel stock, but I need it cut to length and then I need a couple of holes drilled in it. I have a metal blade for my miter saw, but will that work and what kind of drill bits do I need. I think it was 1/8 thick. If this won't work I will have to resort to some square steel stock, but I'll have to recess that into the top, which I don't want to do.

    http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100337956

    (My problem is that I don't know how to attach the circular mounting plate from the legs to a square piece of stock and make it sturdy.)

    OR does the piece I used to support have to be supported by the legs, could I just connect it using some braces so it would "Float" between the two legs?
     
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2009
  12. Apr 10, 2009 #12

    inspectorD

    inspectorD

    inspectorD

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    You will be able to use the metal cutting blade, just do it outside because it will throw lots of sparks. Regular metal drill bits will be fine for drilling 1/8 inch angle.That and a drop or two of oil.
    Then you will need to add some ingenuity to your job. Without seeing it, I would say some through bolts will hold anything to your round legs. You may need to attach to the wood first to hold parts in place.
    The pipes for the clamps sometimes are sold at the box stores. If not you can get what you need at a plumbing supply store. They cut and thread...ussually.:)
    You sound like you have it figured out, send some pics out when you finish, or need more help.
    Sounds like fun, good luck.
     

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