I pulled permits for my 1000 square foot walkout basement project earlier this year and had my first inspection on Tuesday. First the good news, my electrical passed and the inspector was very impressed with the quality of my work. Plumbing didn't pass, not due to what I've done, but due to what isn't done yet. Namely the shower pan. In order to pass my rough inspection I need to have the shower pan installed and leak tested. Without passing plumbing the framing inspection can't be signed off. If it weren't for the inspection need, no way would I be putting in a shower pan this early in my project. That would be an item for when I'm drywalling and preparing to tile a shower.
On the framing, overall it looked good. My new door opening is fine without an engineer's approval, same with an opening between two of the rooms under the gluelam beam that runs down the middle of the house. But, on framing, I need to install a bunch of blocking. I built a soffit box out around the room to handle the duct work and other obstructions. That needs to be fireblocked from the rest of the wall. All the penetrations into the top plates need to be sealed with fire-block foam. So, I have some work ahead of me. I also dropped the ceiling in one section rather than framing out around the ducts and other things installed below the joists. Fortunately, the overall ceiling height is 10' and even in the dropped areas it will be 9'.
One other thing that struck me as odd is I'll need to install Tyvek on one of the exterior poured concrete walls behind the insulation. The 2x4 walls on that one wall are about 2.5" off of the poured wall to handle the HVAC refrigerant lines for the first and second floor units. The other poured walls are only the required 1" off the exterior walls. The back wall is framed and I made it double thick because the house was built with a 2x8 sill plate leaving me with a 3.5" of plate sticking out of the wall to deal with. Rather than some hokey trim out I just made the wall 7" deep. Given our mild climate, I didn't see the need to install an insulated floor on top of the concrete.
Anyway, a few pictures of the project. Some of the framing of the door and after installation pictures of the door and the opening between the office space and the main area of the basement.
On the framing, overall it looked good. My new door opening is fine without an engineer's approval, same with an opening between two of the rooms under the gluelam beam that runs down the middle of the house. But, on framing, I need to install a bunch of blocking. I built a soffit box out around the room to handle the duct work and other obstructions. That needs to be fireblocked from the rest of the wall. All the penetrations into the top plates need to be sealed with fire-block foam. So, I have some work ahead of me. I also dropped the ceiling in one section rather than framing out around the ducts and other things installed below the joists. Fortunately, the overall ceiling height is 10' and even in the dropped areas it will be 9'.
One other thing that struck me as odd is I'll need to install Tyvek on one of the exterior poured concrete walls behind the insulation. The 2x4 walls on that one wall are about 2.5" off of the poured wall to handle the HVAC refrigerant lines for the first and second floor units. The other poured walls are only the required 1" off the exterior walls. The back wall is framed and I made it double thick because the house was built with a 2x8 sill plate leaving me with a 3.5" of plate sticking out of the wall to deal with. Rather than some hokey trim out I just made the wall 7" deep. Given our mild climate, I didn't see the need to install an insulated floor on top of the concrete.
Anyway, a few pictures of the project. Some of the framing of the door and after installation pictures of the door and the opening between the office space and the main area of the basement.