Bathroom light/fan/heater combo unit question

[PJB12]

If the light is to be separate from the fan, I'd pick the NM with two conductors (blue jacket). This will be quick if it will reach the new light's location* (See the * notes in italic below)
Power the line side from your #7. Number six will be the neutral. (The fan will also use #'s 6 and 7)

Use the 3-conductor (white jacket) NM for the fan. This will make future diagnosis easier. And, you'll have an extra conductor at the fan should you ever decide to put a heater, night light or something else in the fan enclosure.

*Don't splice a jumper to the new light in the fan box's wiring enclosure unless your are certain the cubic inch capacity is sufficient for all of the wires.
It should be marked with cubic inch. Tell us the wire size and the cubic inch and Soonyb or I can do the math for you.
Usually, however they are sized only for a maximum of two #12, the grounds, the device wires and no internal clamping mechanisms.

*If you splice a jumper to reach the light in a separate box, be certain that the box is located where it will remain accessible. The attic is fine.
You can screw it to the top of the joist if you protect the wires leading to& from it with running boards. (Running boards aren't required if there are no stairs or permanent ladder and the cable is more than 6 feet from the opening to the attic.)

You can also mount the box to the side of the nearby joist and bore wiring holes to reach the new light location.


Soonyb mentioned the six inch of free conductor:
NFPA 70 Article 300.14 requires six inches of free conductor past the end of the raceway, cable or sheath.

If the box is less than 8" in any dimension (including depth) the wire has to be able to extend 3" past the edge of the box. (You'll be frustrated if you don't have a happy length of wire with which to work.)

Paul

 

[Benaford]

Thanks for the directive - I got the new timer switch wired in yesterday and now it's all good to go. Light and Fan operation independently.
Finished product:


Thanks again to all who offered such great advice. I'm always humbled by the kindness of strangers here in this forum.

 

[PJB12]

Thanks for the directive - I got the new timer switch wired in yesterday and now it's all good to go. Light and Fan operation independently. View attachment 33772
Finished product:
View attachment 33773

Thanks again to all who offered such great advice. I'm always humbled by the kindness of strangers here in this forum.

Glad to hear that your efforts worked!
Paul
PS: What does the 3rd switch operate? Just curious.

 

[Benaford]

Glad to hear that your efforts worked!
Paul
PS: What does the 3rd switch operate? Just curious.

For now, the third switch is a dummy. I can't think of a use for that circuit, so it's just capped off.

 

[PJB12]

For now, the third switch is a dummy. I can't think of a use for that circuit, so it's just capped off.

The minute after you remove the switch and conductors, you'll think of a use for it. (To me, your 3 switch bank looks better than two with a blank spot.) Again, I'm glad to hear that your project went well!



I sold a house once with 2 dummy switches in a back hall to the most demanding, rude, pushy and insensitive people on earth. I never mentioned the switches. (Usually I give a paper with any oddities to the buyers when I sell a house. I give one with mechanical system preventative maintenance and emergency shut offs, too.)

A month or so after they moved in, one called me and yelled about how they spent over $350.00 on electricians trying to figure out what the switches are for and failed. He demanded to know "right damn now" what they are for.

With a cheerful voice, I told him to use the left side one in the morning to turn on the sunlight and the right side one in the evening to turn on the moonlight.

Paul
PS: Couldn't have been much of "electricians" they hired. The switches had no wires attached. Just filling spots in a 6-gang box. Probably Craigslist Specials.

 

[Snoonyb]

I always use these, no guess work, no call-backs;

https://www.menards.com/main/search.html?search=white++Blank+Decorator+Strap

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Eaton-1-Gang-White-Blank-Specialty-Wall-Plate-Insert/1001438544

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton...late-1-Pack-80414-00W-R52-80414-00W/202059798

https://www.acehardware.com/departm...witches-outlets-and-plugs/wall-plates/3133642

 

[Benaford]

The minute after you remove the switch and conductors, you'll think of a use for it. (To me, your 3 switch bank looks better than two with a blank spot.) Again, I'm glad to hear that your project went well!



I sold a house once with 2 dummy switches in a back hall to the most demanding, rude, pushy and insensitive people on earth. I never mentioned the switches. (Usually I give a paper with any oddities to the buyers when I sell a house. I give one with mechanical system preventative maintenance and emergency shut offs, too.)

A month or so after they moved in, one called me and yelled about how they spent over $350.00 on electricians trying to figure out what the switches are for and failed. He demanded to know "right damn now" what they are for.

With a cheerful voice, I told him to use the left side one in the morning to turn on the sunlight and the right side one in the evening to turn on the moonlight.

Paul
PS: Couldn't have been much of "electricians" they hired. The switches had no wires attached. Just filling spots in a 6-gang box. Probably Craigslist Specials.

What a jack wagon. Glad you got a laugh out of it because I might have said something ugly.

 

[PJB12]

What a jack wagon. Glad you got a laugh out of it because I might have said something ugly.

To be honest, there were some bite marks on my tongue!