blowing in fiberglass DIY

Discussion in 'Insulation and Radiant Barriers' started by mayhem69, Dec 2, 2009.

  1. Dec 2, 2009 #1

    mayhem69

    mayhem69

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    Hi, i need about 450 sq. ft. blown in between my studs from inside. I saw at HD and Lowes you can rent a machine for blowing in celluose. What about doing the same with fiberglass? What is involved? I am thinking about just buying a hole saw and going at it.

    Seems HD and Lowes don't sell the blow in fiberglass, only cellulose.
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2009
  2. Dec 3, 2009 #2

    kok328

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    Can't say that I've ever seen blown-in fiberglass but, that doesn't mean it doesn't exist.
    I believe it does for attic areas but, never heard of it being done in walls. Primarily, the easiest and predominant method of insulation occurrs at time of build with batts being installed by hand.
    Just off the top of my head, two problems become obvious. 1. You don't want to blow fiberglass and have it become airborn. 2. Blow in process might lead to compression, a no-no when it comes to fiberglass.
    I also saw at HD that the machine rental is free with the purchase of X amount of cellulose. Not a bad deal if your doing alot.
     
  3. Dec 3, 2009 #3

    CraigFL

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    I've seen blown-in fiberglass somewhere but if I remember, it's a special machine that chops it too...
     
  4. Dec 3, 2009 #4

    mayhem69

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    Going with a guy that blows in Certainteed SP.
     
  5. Sep 7, 2010 #5

    AtticCare

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    Good choice, people answering here without answers. YES they make fiberglass for wall fill, YES it has a SUPERIOR r-rating than batts, YES it is the best bang for your buck, good choice mayhem, hope they gave you a good price.
     
  6. Sep 8, 2010 #6

    mayhem69

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    yea, i read good things about the blow in certainteed SP insulation. I found an old friend from high school that does it. He did the job for $700 cash. I noticed a BIG difference right away in heat and sound in my bedroom. Thanks for reassuring my choice, i thought it was the way to go. I don't know about the cellulose, but i read too many negatives about it. But didn't find any negatives about the certaineed SP product and i am very happy with my decision.
     
  7. Sep 8, 2010 #7

    mudmixer

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    Cellulose is superior in the end and it does not have possiblity of supporting mold.

    Dick
     
  8. Sep 8, 2010 #8

    mayhem69

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    that's not what i have read from other end users. Cellulose is ground up treated recycled paper, right? Well......what happens after several yrs. go by and that treatment wears off or even gets wet? Do you even know what happens when paper gets wet? Cellulose is the mold rat here buddy. Also, it settles ALOT leaving gaps at the top after time.
    Sorry, but cellulose hasn't been around long enough to be superior to fiberglass.
     
  9. Sep 8, 2010 #9

    mudmixer

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    After looking at about 1,000 damaged and flooded homes in LA & MS after Katrina and Rita it begins to jump out at you.

    Impossible to dry out fiberglass if it ever gets wet unless you toss it out and move it around with adequate air flow.If fiberglass gets as little as 1% moisture in it the insulation value can be cut in half. So the sensible thing to do it throw it away and replace. Fiberglass does not absorb much water, but its structure and texture hold water as source for mold in the wood and drywall. It also not good at fire resistance since the fibers melt quite easily.

    Cellulose is treated with a very permanent material that allows it so smother flames and also is resistant to moisture and mold.

    Dick
     
  10. Sep 8, 2010 #10

    GBR

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    There's more to insulation than R-value | New Life Journal | Find Articles at BNET

    http://www.cellulose.org/userdocs/T.../ConsumerUpdate02-InsulationEffectiveness.pdf

    Your insulation weighs 1.6lb./ft.3, dense-pack cellulose weighs 3.25-3.75lb./ft.3, or twice as heavy to help seal any air gaps from wire penetration holes, sheathing, electrical boxes, etc. Your glass is a low density insulation, unlike cellulose DP, that will have convective loops in every stud bay, pp.#45: http://www.buildingscienceconsultin...010-03-10_When_R-Value_Doesn t_Measure_Up.pdf

    I would have at least got the Optima, one step better, but still less efficient than D.P.
    UMass Amherst: Building and Construction Technology ยป Cellulose Insulation – A Smart Choice

    Gary
     
  11. Sep 8, 2010 #11

    mayhem69

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    you guys need to google better, not just throw around your lack of knowledge and links.
    Cellulose or fiberglass in a flood like Katrina would need to be replaced there Dick.
    Cellulose is a relatively new product, talk to me 30 yrs. down the rd. Fiberglass is proven and has been around forever.
     
  12. Sep 8, 2010 #12

    mudmixer

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    I don't know if I will be around in 30 years, but I hope to be.

    The Katrina original fiberglass was removed and the drywall replaced. The wood had some moisture that was transferred to the fiberglass and there was mold 4 months later and everything had to be replaced. This did not happen in the other homes in the area that went to cellulose.

    I learned from 40 years of engineering and construction experience and not just Googling. When you are an expert witness in a court trial, you see and participate in all the problems and learn from the evidence and testimony admitted (if you can keep awake). When you are cross examined you are definitely challenged.

    I really get more fed up the fiberglass commercials when a 6" wall with R19 really is only R10 - R16 according to tests and may not be fire rated for more than an hour.

    Dick
     
  13. Sep 8, 2010 #13

    GBR

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    Sorry if you don't understand the links prove my point. Otherwise, it's just an opinion.......

    Gary
     
  14. Sep 9, 2010 #14

    inspectorD

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    Nice discussion, :D
    I have to agree with Mudmixer, after 30 years, and seeing how poorly fiberglass actually works, Just as Dick mentioned.
    And the old style cellulose is not as good as the new materials such as National Fiber manufactures.
    And my question to Mayhem is, what is your background to assume folks are just Googlin their answers?
    Just so we all know who the players are, this aint' poker,there is nothin to hide, and we are not gonna get nasty. This is how folks learn.:)
     
  15. Mar 23, 2011 #15

    taggmann

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    Got a similar question. Putting up a pole barn. Radiant floor heat and want to have it well insulated. It will have steel siding on both inside and outside so that leaves a wide open space to fill with insulation. It would be tough to put in batts so blown in seems the best option after the wall coverings are installed. It poses some questions .First is fiberglass blown in really worthless? What type of insulation will give best results without corroding the metal. Should I wrap with plastic inside and tyvec out? I have access to an older cellulose machine, will it work for fiberglass?
    Thanks
     

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