Building A Pergola

Discussion in 'Decks & Patios' started by AeR0, Oct 2, 2012.

  1. Oct 2, 2012 #1

    AeR0

    AeR0

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    hey just looking for some answers here... im not exactly building a pergola but what i am building is basically a roof that goes 12 feet out so that i can have some shade in my backyard.



    my question is ive got the holes 4 feet deep each and am using sonotubes with cement, ive also purchased saddles to put my 6x6 posts on
    these are what i bought- http://www.pylex.com/images/produits/12840_Concrete_U_saddle_P1.JPG

    is that a good idea? should i be using them?
     
    Last edited: Oct 2, 2012
  2. Oct 2, 2012 #2

    nealtw

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    If you use saddle you will also need some angle bracing between the roof and the posts. You could use longer post and plant them in the concrete to make them more self supporting. I would use treated 6x6. If you do use sadles and treated posts you need galvinized sadles and all nails or screws must be rated for the treated lumber.
     
  3. Oct 2, 2012 #3

    CallMeVilla

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    Listen to Neal . . . You need bracing to provide support. Here is a good place to review some important design needs: http://www.hometips.com/diy-how-to/posts-beams-erecting.html

    Here is part of the bracing I used to build a tree house between three redwoods. Notice the long galvanized lag bolts, the 45 degree angles, the strength ...

    BRACE 3.JPG
     
    Last edited: Oct 2, 2012
  4. Oct 2, 2012 #4

    AeR0

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    how do i know if the saddles are galvanized or not?

    and how do i know how to look for the rating?
     
  5. Oct 3, 2012 #5

    nealtw

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    Simply asking your supplier should do the job. The saddle you posted a picture of was painted so it will not do the job. Hot dipped gavinized will be a silver colour with a kinda lumpy finish bolts, nuts washers should all be treated as well as nails, Green deck screws work too.
     
  6. Oct 3, 2012 #6

    AeR0

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  7. Oct 3, 2012 #7

    nealtw

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  8. Oct 3, 2012 #8

    AeR0

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    so the ones i have now what exactly is the problem with them?

    they will be sitting in cement filled sono tubes 6" above the ground.
     
  9. Oct 3, 2012 #9

    nealtw

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    The copper in the treated wood will eat the steel. My guess is the one you have would be for redwood or cedar.
     
  10. Oct 3, 2012 #10

    CallMeVilla

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    For galvanized, use Simpson hardware. The labels will indicate the hot dipped saddles. The through bolts and washers/nuts all have to be galvanized too. Same goes for any lag bolts. members not exposed to driven water or snow can be fastened with deck screws or galvanized nails.

    I have also gone to extremes with stainless steel screws but they are really expensive.

    How about a sketch of your project? Scan it as a jpeg and post the sucker! ;)
     
  11. Oct 3, 2012 #11

    nealtw

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  12. Oct 4, 2012 #12

    notmrjohn

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    The bracing for your roof does not have to be as heavy as Villa's, those brace a floor. Your building an awning. 1x4"s or 6" will do.

    Here's brace on my awning. Inside are 2 1X6's lagged to post, lag screws almost all way through post. They go up inside box beam , bolted to triple 2X6's inside.

    The covering is 1/4" veneer resawn from old weathered fence panels.

    Bring your concrete footings a few inches above ground level to prevent water from pooling and rotting ends of post. Even with PT post and raised brackets.

    IMG_3604.jpg
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2012
  13. Oct 24, 2012 #13

    AeR0

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    well guys i must admit my build is coming along very good, ive got 2 family friends that are carpentry tradesman that are helping me out.


    i have a few questions though

    1st picture:

    the bracing in between the 2x8s i thought were a bit close... personally i thought they should of been about 2 feet from the bottom and 2 feet from the top.. i asked them about this and they said no that this way is the same as doing it the way i thought?

    [​IMG]


    my 2nd issue i have is we removed all the soffit vents and they built it in like you see in the pic, my argument with this is that it now reduces air flow from the attic. again i could be wrong these guys have the trade not me.

    [​IMG]



    hope to get some answers !

    thanks again guys!
     
  14. Oct 24, 2012 #14

    nealtw

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    Bidging or blocking is required for joists are more the seven ft between where the are attached. One in the middle would have done it. At the top the blocking on the flat appear to block the venting for the roof on the house, I don't understand that.
     
  15. Oct 24, 2012 #15

    AeR0

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    nealtw-

    im a bit confused are you saying that the bracing for those joists are correct or incorrect? they are 14 ft long 2x8s

    and as for the blocking the venting to the roof, i agree im a bit confused ... i wasnt ready to say anything bc i dont have a better idea till i get someone to give me some advice on how it should be! lol.
     
  16. Oct 24, 2012 #16

    nealtw

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    These are rafters not joist so blocking was not required. The soffet vents should not be blocked and I can't figure out what they thought they need to put those blocks there for.
     
  17. Oct 24, 2012 #17

    notmrjohn

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    The blocking wasn't needed, but does keep rafters spaced.
    Remove the blocking at soffet. Not only do you need attic ventilation, it will prevent hot air pocket under new cover.

    What is roof decking? What is roof covering?

    Are you going to insulate under roof? Will there be a ceiling? Answers to those two relate to blocking, which may interfere or facillitate installation of insulation, ceiling.
     
  18. Oct 24, 2012 #18

    CallMeVilla

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    Blocking works for me. Have seen a lot of twisted rafters on patio covers that could have been prevented. Are you planning on lighting or fans? The blocking could be useful for that purpose but I sense the carpenters were not considering that next step -- they just tossed in the blocks "because."

    I share everybody's concerns about the lost venting . . . can't figure what they were thinking. :)
     
  19. Oct 24, 2012 #19

    nealtw

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    More often now we see people finnish this with soffet which needs strapping, doing away with any need of blocking.
     
  20. Oct 25, 2012 #20

    AeR0

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    well i won the argument and we cut out the blocking at the soffet vents, now since i picked the argument i have to come up with a solution on how to replace.


    so im asking you guys for some help!


    the roof has 1/2" ply on top we weathersheild the whole roof and shingled it.
     

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