Can I use both side terminals & back connections in outlet?

[papakevin]

I have a location in my basement where I need to add an outlet. There is an outlet nearby which is in the middle of a circuit, so the top and bottom terminals are already in use.

My question. Since I'm using 14 gauge wire for the new outlet, can I tap this new wire into the back of the existing outlet (it has both side screw terminals and the push in back terminals) using the push in terminals on the back of the old outlet, even though it's using all the side terminals for the existing circuit?

 

[Snoonyb]

The simple answer is yes.

However, if the circuit is presently powered from a 2oA fuse/breaker, you need to use 12ga. conductors.

You should also wirenut the like conductors and pigtail to the recepticles. The logic behind this is to enable you to replace a damaged or defective recep. while still maintaining power to the downstream recep.

 

[afjes_2016]

I have a location in my basement where I need to add an outlet. There is an outlet nearby which is in the middle of a circuit, so the top and bottom terminals are already in use.

My question. Since I'm using 14 gauge wire for the new outlet, can I tap this new wire into the back of the existing outlet (it has both side screw terminals and the push in back terminals) using the push in terminals on the back of the old outlet, even though it's using all the side terminals for the existing circuit?

There are several factors that you must consider when adding this outlet to the existing circuit.

As snoonyb mentioned which is very important is the fact that you state you will be using 14 gauge wire. So I will repeat what he says because this is the most important part of your question. If you are going to use 14 gauge wire/conductor you must be sure that the fuse/breaker is only a 15 amp. You do not want to put a 14 gauge wire on a 20amp breaker as this can cause the wire to overheat in some cases which can cause a fire.

Also, since you will be tapping into an existing receptacle box in the middle of the circuit this means that there are already at least two cables coming into this box. Most of the device boxes can only handle two cables (cable is two insulated wires and one bare ground wire-normally) and the receptacle to meet box fill requirements. Adding another cable to go to your new receptacle box may exceed that box fill requirement. In this case you may have to install a larger device box.

Another factor you must consider and also important in the integrity of the existing receptacle you are tapping into and also any other receptacle you may install in the future is that it is not advised that you put your wire into the back of the receptacle. In the field we refer to this as "back-stabbing". Although the receptacles do have this ability and are still approved by the UL we have found that pushing the wire/conductor into the back of the receptacles is not good practice. The reason is that the connection is not nearly as secure (wires connected to other wires or devices must be secure and tight) using a back-stab connection. These become loose over time and may cause problems both in loosing power downstream or even overheating because of a loose connection. There fore it is highly recommended that since there are only two screws and you have three wires that you take a jumper (same gauge wire as the existing wire-about 6-8" long) and wire nut the stripped ends of all three wires together securely. Then take the end of the jumper (the one you added) and use only one screw and securely attach that end to the screw. This will provide for more reliable service and of course continuity if that receptacle should ever fail the power will still continue on to the next device down-line.

Another factor in your question is you say "basement". Is this part of the basement "finished" or "unfinished". We need to know this way we can advise if a GFCI receptacle is necessary or not.

The above suggestions are basics in wiring. If you have any questions or concerns please ask us and we will attempt to guide you the best we can. The more information you give us (pictures help) the more we can guide you properly.

 

[papakevin]

Great feedback and very helpful.

The basement is finished but there is access to the backside of the wall which is unfinished storage. Yes, the circuit is currently 20amp, but was planning on replacing it with a 15amp breaker since it is only feeding wall outlets and they don't have much on them (a couple old arcade games, Eight Ball Deluxe pinball, computer, etc) and it is cheaper to buy a new breaker vs buying new wiring. I'm assuming it is ok to run both12g and 14g wire using a 15amp breaker, right?

 

[afjes_2016]

Great feedback and very helpful.

The basement is finished but there is access to the backside of the wall which is unfinished storage. Yes, the circuit is currently 20amp, but was planning on replacing it with a 15amp breaker since it is only feeding wall outlets and they don't have much on them (a couple old arcade games, Eight Ball Deluxe pinball, computer, etc) and it is cheaper to buy a new breaker vs buying new wiring. I'm assuming it is ok to run both12g and 14g wire using a 15amp breaker, right?

Since the area where you are placing the receptacle is "finished" there is no need for GFCI receptacle. You consider a basement finished if the face of the receptacle faces the finished part of the room/part of the basement where you are placing the receptacle. So in this case since the face of the receptacle is facing the finished side of the room then no GFCI is required by code. However, if your basement is subject to periodic wetness/dampness on the floor like when it rains heavily etc spending a few dollars on GFCI receptacles for personal protection is not that much for personal safety. You can put one in the first receptacle on a circuit and then wire it so it protects all receptacles down-line. But again since it is finished it is not required.

Yes, replacing the 20amp with the 15 amp is ok to do and advisable since you will be using both 14 and 12 gauge wire on the same circuit which is also ok as long as the amp rating of the smaller gauge wire is not exceeded by the amp rating of the breaker you plan on using.

Since the circuit rating is calculated by the draw on the circuit overall. I don't know the draw (amp pull) on those games without the specs so can not advise you as to if adding another receptacle and plugging in more will trip the breaker more often or not. If there is ample access to the walls you may want to consider adding an additional circuit so you will lessen your chances of tripping the breaker. But with what you have plugged in go with your original thought of just adding the receptacle. If it holds then fine; if you find more tripping then consider adding a circuit.

 

[Snoonyb]

If your existing recep. boxes are the metal single gang they have knock outs on the sides, rear, top and bottom, and while it is prudent to use just the top or bottom, or both, the 3/8" screw clamp allow room for 2 romex.

If your existing boxes are plastic they come equipped with just 2 clamps on each top and bottom.

If in the future you have the need to expand the circuit, be sides increasing the breaker, you may need to install a larger box be cause you risk conductor overfill.

 

[afjes_2016]

If your existing recep. boxes are the metal single gang they have knock outs on the sides, rear, top and bottom, and while it is prudent to use just the top or bottom, or both, the 3/8" screw clamp allow room for 2 romex.

If your existing boxes are plastic they come equipped with just 2 clamps on each top and bottom.

If in the future you have the need to expand the circuit, be sides increasing the breaker, you may need to install a larger box be cause you risk conductor overfill.

This is BOTH confusing to papakevin and redundant to what I already stated . Doesn't matter whether box is metal or plastic. Yes, should only put two Romex cables in one slot (clamp, hole, knock-out whatever) and does not matter what side of the box (plastic/metal) it goes into.

Meantime papakevin -

Metal or Plastic box/es: does not matter. Length x Width x depth (cubic inch capacity) this is what matters whether single, two, three etc gang box. papakevin you can go HERE and put in the wire/conductors and see if your box is big enough. Most standard boxes (new work or old work) you buy from HDepot/Lowes (any big box store or electrical supplier) is either 18 or 22 Cubic Inch. You can also purchase THIS a high capacity box which will allow more romexes into one device box. It is single gang but it has a "compartment" to the side (field personnel call them 'side cars') this will give you far more capacity for three or four romexes ( but always go by box fill calculation as I gave you already

while it is prudent to use just the top or bottom, or both, the 3/8" screw clamp

These clamps are standard at HDepot or Lowes and known as 3/8"-1/2" knock-out if you are using them for a metal box.

...be sides increasing the breaker...

papakevin breaker size has nothing to do with box fill. Box fill calculations are based on cubic inch capacity of the wire/conductors of a device box (receptacle box, switch box etc)

 

[Snoonyb]

This is BOTH confusing to papakevin and redundant to what I already stated . Doesn't matter whether box is metal or plastic. Yes, should only put two Romex cables in one slot (clamp, hole, knock-out whatever) and does not matter what side of the box (plastic/metal) it goes into.

Actually, I was expanding into an area you had neglected, IE. determining the actual box type, before you "assumed" it was metal.

From post #3, "Most of the device boxes can only handle two cables (cable is two insulated wires and one bare ground wire-normally) and the receptacle to meet box fill requirements.

Talk about misleading and confusing!

Metal or Plastic box/es: does not matter. Length x Width x depth (cubic inch capacity) this is what matters whether single, two, three etc gang box. papakevin you can go HERE and put in the wire/conductors and see if your box is big enough. Most standard boxes (new work or old work) you buy from HDepot/Lowes (any big box store or electrical supplier) is either 18 or 22 Cubic Inch. You can also purchase THIS a high capacity box which will allow more romexes into one device box. It is single gang but it has a "compartment" to the side (field personnel call them 'side cars') this will give you far more capacity for three or four romexes ( but always go by box fill calculation as I gave you already

Better late than never.

papakevin breaker size has nothing to do with box fill. Box fill calculations are based on cubic inch capacity of the wire/conductors of a device box (receptacle box, switch box etc)

It's a courtesy to quote "in context", so that the advice is relevant.

 

[afjes_2016]

Snoonyb I am not going to get into a debate with you on ANY ISSUE. All I care about is whether the person posting a question/concern has sufficient answers that s/he can rely for safety etc from us in this forum!! Period-End of sentence!!

 

[Snoonyb]

As expected.