Close the barn door before the cat pees again, and a few ?s

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rokosz

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I've decided to build my own sliding barn door (interior). Since shipping is through the roof (along most everything these last months). It'll be kind of large for an interior but due to the layout of its intended wall it lt only works as a 6x6. I was kind of stymied by the prospect but then came across this:
https://www.barntoolbox.com/pdffiles/Sliding-Door-Assembly.pdf

?1: the plan talks about stapling the bucks from the back side I've got a couple of (very?) light duty staplers (good for tacking plastic sheeting up, or deer fencing to a post). I'm a little bewildered by the choices. Can anyone guide me on what size would be appropriate? Does: (.421) wide crown, staple leg length 1/4 In. to 9/16 In. long ok? or should the crown be more toward an inch so there's 1/2" inside each board?

In a somewhat "reduce/reuse/recycle" twist I'm going to use left over t&g 3/4" flooring for the verticals. I'll put the finished side out and the unfinished side in. Don't much care for the unfinished side -- but now I'll have a place to put the dart board (!!).

3"x6" poplar for the outside edges. I know those plans talk about 1x for the edges. But, another issue on this job is that the door needs to floor loaded - not hung. the 3x will allow me to install the rollers (cases are ~3"x1"x2") in the bottom edge.

barndoor001.jpg

Route poplar to receive the t&g.

I haven't done the math, but it seems the buckboards s/b 1x. attaching them to the overall door strikes me a little weird, but screwing through the t&g gives them lots of attachment points. Is that enough. I'm wondering bout the corners...Brads at angle into the 3x seems a possiblity. Thoughts?

I've puzzled abit on how to attach the poplar corners. I thought I'd rabbett(?) out 1/2 the thickness for the poplar widht from each board end, allowing a kind of lap. Then screw from the back side like the plans say.
I also like the idea of (2) 5/8" or 1" dowels in each corner for a little rack/torque stability, and if they contrast maybe it'll look nice. Does 5/8" seem like an appropriate size?

For the bottom rollers. How far away should they be from the rabbett edge? Those are going to be some deep holes. What tool is used to do that properly?

I always miss something -- and always find it when I'm deep in it. Anybody have any advice, aside from just letting the cats have their way?

Darn close to heartache a few times with them. I have a piece of plexiglass and plywood (mostly) keeping them out. The two pieces lap each other a bit. the PG is braced on the outside by a grandmother clock. The plywood is on old socks and slide back and forth. Well for a while I had the plywood on the inside of the PG. Cat jumped up on the plywood and pulled the plywood down on itself (didn't hurt it - darn shame or not). Well the plywood wanted tho pull the PG down with it -- and did -- along with the grandmother clock. I didn't see or hear it happen. But it was upsetting on discovery. Amazingly none of the glass or woodwork broke on the clock when its face hit the floor. Just a slight chip in one place. Clockworks need to be cleaned badly, it hasn't run in years; so I'm not sure if the works took any damage.

Thanks for your help, I hope you enjoyed reading. B.
 

Eddie_T

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I think the staples in question were hammered into the trim just to hold it together as it is being built as a sandwich. With a 3x6 frame and half-lap corners your frame will be pretty substantial. I think the recesses for the casters might be made by drilling holes the proper width and depth then cleaning up with a chisel. Doweled corners might be a nice touch.

I am not sure how you plan to fit the T&G boards to the frame, are you thinking a slot (kerf) into the 3x6 frame. You might consider a brad nailer to fasten the buckboards to the T&G and at an angle to fasten T&G into slot in frame. Brads are 18ga and would hardly show. Prolly rent a brad nailer if you don't have one.

My comments are just for openers someone else may have better ideas.
 

rokosz

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kerf! yes that's the word, yup what I was thinking. Got a brad nailer that takes tiny (3/4" up to 2"). drilling out the recesses makes sense I don't have a drill press (or would that be overkill), but I do have patience. Thanks Eddie_T. I think I just gotta find the frame pieces and go for it.
 

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