Concrete floor repair for small washroom

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pgaggini

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Hello all, I have 4 questions about some concrete sub-floor repairs.


I recently pulled up the linoleum in my washroom and am going to install vinyl planks so my plan for preparing the concrete floor is;
Clean up concrete floor surface with a wire cup brush on an angle grinder.
Brush on a bonding adhesive.
Pour down floor leveling concrete.



1st question:

I am only at the 1st stage of cleaning the concrete floor with the wire brush and am wondering how far down I should be taking it. Currently I have made the surface smooth and shiny, so taken off the grey, rough part of the concrete. Was this correct or too much ?


2nd question:

Also, as shown in the pictures, when I pulled up the linoleum some concrete sub-floor came up with it.

My question is, should I keep chipping away and remove this layer of concrete (which I suspect is self leveling type) or should I leave it and pour the self leveling concrete down?



3rd question:
As shown in the pictures, the drywall has a gap about 1/2" from the floor. Is this ok, and if not what should I do to fix this?


4th question:
As shown in the pictures, around the toilet flange there are big gaps.
Should I be filling these in or just leave them as is ?
If I do need to fill it in, what method and materials should I use to do this?




Answers for any of these questions would be greatly appreciated along with further tips and advice. Thank you.
 

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havasu

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Since vinyl plank material is only about 1/8", why not use a bit of thinset, and lay in 1/2" concrete backer board, lay the planks, add new baseboard, and call it a day? If the planks are thicker, use 3/8" backer board.
 

Snoonyb

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1.
so taken off the grey, rough part of the concrete
What appears in photo #1 is some sort of filler or leveling compound. This, if stable, can be left with no need to add too, or amend, just surfaced over with the new product, however, if unstable should be removed.Use a vinyl amended thinnest to patch irregularities.

3. Drywall is typically installed, with a relief clear of a floor surface.

4. Determine the height of the finished floor in reference to the toilet flange, because you may need a flange extender.
 

pgaggini

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Thank you for your answers.
For the toilet flange;
The cuurent flange had no screws in it because of the gap in the surrounding floor and seems to be glued to the outside of the sewage pipe.
The type of flange is a plastic 4"x3".
Do you know if I should be replacing this and if I was to try and patch the gap, how I should do this and with what materials ?

Should I try and replace this
 

Snoonyb

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Use whatever you are using as patching material, because the small spaces are not critical too the integrity of the floor or the support of the WC.

The elongated holes in the closet flange are where the bolts that hold the WC in place are placed.

The wax ring will squash out around them, ensuring a seal.
 

pgaggini

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Use whatever you are using as patching material, because the small spaces are not critical too the integrity of the floor or the support of the WC.

The elongated holes in the closet flange are where the bolts that hold the WC in place are placed.

The wax ring will squash out around them, ensuring a seal.
That makes things simple. Thanks again for your replies.
 
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