Crack in Concrete on Exterior Staircase Landing

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mbenam

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Hello all,

In one of my rentals, the concrete floor on the exterior staircase landing has cracked and some of the pieces have started to come loose. See attached images. It seems that the concrete was cast on plywood deck. Can you guys suggest what is the best suitable repair procedure for this? Do i have to tear up the entire landing concrete and redo it? Since this is exterior, I am also worried about the durability of the fix.

Thanks in advance.

0dfbf5de0442a5fb623d917c50c9f197ee1512fd-1S_1280.jpg

0dfbf5de0442a5fb623d917c50c9f197ee1512fd-2S_1280.jpg
 
What's below it. I am thinking complete removal and a deck type porch.
 
You'll need to pull the cement up and repair any of the damaged plywood and sub-structure.

There are any number of cementatious deck products that are waterproof which can then be applied. the color may not match the treads, however there are coatings which will overcome that.
 
Concrete that thick is never going to last long. You would be better off with a different surface. As long as you have wood structure, why not a nice wood porch?
 
We do concrete over wood but it has a waterproof membrane under it and the membrane runs up the wall behind the siding and it is no less than 3 inches.
 
We flash them and install over plywood or OSB with no membrane and all that's required is a new colorcoat every 6 or 7 years, because they are waterproof as well as elastomeric.
 
We flash them and install over plywood or OSB with no membrane and all that's required is a new colorcoat every 6 or 7 years, because they are waterproof as well as elastomeric.

Can you please explain what do you mean when you say you "flash" them?

Thanks.
 
http://alliedofcentralmd.com/allied-blog/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Flashing-method.jpg

Flashing-method.jpg


Here is one of many images of flashing. I haven't found one yet directly related to your situation. Flashing is there to keep water out of the structure by going down between the steps and the house.
 
http://alliedofcentralmd.com/allied-blog/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Flashing-method.jpg

Flashing-method.jpg


Here is one of many images of flashing. I haven't found one yet directly related to your situation. Flashing is there to keep water out of the structure by going down between the steps and the house.

Thanks for the image. I now understand. The piece that broke off is away from the wall. I was just thinking of saw cutting around the area and put some quickcrete, may be around couple of square feet. And then may be apply a seal on the whole deck.

Thanks.
 
I would use a concrete product designed for patching, not just a regular bag of Quikcrete. Your structure appears to be painted brick or painted cinderblock.
 
The symptom is concrete missing. replacing it may not solve the problem.

It is a pretty thin coating of concrete over wood. I suspect it cracked and water got in and popped the concrete off the wood as water swelled the wood.

A concrete patch is probably going to be a short-term fix if the wood is starting to fail from moisture. How short term, is anyone's guess.

I'd want a thicker layer of concrete with something separating the wood from the concrete. Or I'd use metal under the concrete instead of wood. Still, I'd want 4" of concrete. Or long-term, I'd rebuild it with composite decking.
 
It is a pretty thin coating of concrete over wood. I suspect it cracked and water got in and popped the concrete off the wood as water swelled the wood.

A concrete patch is probably going to be a short-term fix if the wood is starting to fail from moisture. How short term, is anyone's guess.

I'd want a thicker layer of concrete with something separating the wood from the concrete. Or I'd use metal under the concrete instead of wood. Still, I'd want 4" of concrete. Or long-term, I'd rebuild it with composite decking.

The deck is exposed to weather is what it looks like so a new deck should be 6 inches below the floor and 3 1/2" of concrete. So the structure is 10" below floor level
36" wide peel and stick under the concrete and up the wall

We built them with a drip edge too to save the wood from getting wet.
 
At some point, this thing needs to be torn off and rebuilt. Without a roof over it, water is going to splash on the door.
 
Can you please explain what do you mean when you say you "flash" them?

Please excuse the delay as I am a DAV and had to attend to some med. needs at the VA.

Different from the general method of flashing, I use a 3"x3" bonderized flashing where the plywood intersects the wall over a urethane caulk tooled both up the wall and on the plywood and back over the flashing on the plywood plain, the base membrane (expanded metal lath, fiberglass or mesh) is placed and attached over the plywood, the cementatious product is mixed, placed and tooled, and usually dries to foot traffic in 1-4hrs.

Another bead of Urethane is applied at the deck to wall intersection and around any deck protrusions and penetrations.

Sealed, waterproof and elastomeric.
 
Thanks for the image. I now understand. The piece that broke off is away from the wall. I was just thinking of saw cutting around the area and put some quickcrete, may be around couple of square feet. And then may be apply a seal on the whole deck.

The plywood is clearly damaged and should be replaced.

The cut and patch method will leave a cold joint and a leak.
 
How did this break, something hit it or wood movement.

Not sure. Probably the tenant dropped something like a furniture or heavy stuff that caused the crack. Water seeping through the crack made the plywood swell up. Just guessing.

Thanks.
 

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