Creaky stairs. Need to screw them down.

Discussion in 'Flooring' started by marif, Sep 25, 2008.

  1. Sep 25, 2008 #1

    marif

    marif

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    I am installing a new carpet in the bedroom hallway and the stairs leading to it. Thought to take advantange of this and clamp down the creaky stairs and floor, when the old carpet is lifted.
    Question: Where exactly can I use the 2" screws on the stairs horizontal surface, so the support underneath the stair, will hold the screw in place, and thus basically stop the creaking noise.
     
  2. Sep 25, 2008 #2

    hondadrv24

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    you should see where the stair tread was nailed down before, i would put my screws inline with the old nails because that is where the support is located.
     
  3. Sep 25, 2008 #3

    marif

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    Thanks hondadrv24.

    I was thinking about that while the carpet is still on, but someone scared me that they might all be glued together, thereby leaving no trace of the underlying support. Could this be possible.
     
  4. Sep 26, 2008 #4

    Square Eye

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    A staircase with no visible fasteners is a mark of a true craftsman...
    A craftsman who would scream if he saw you screwing the treads to the risers! lol
    If you can access the stairs from underneath, you could use glue and do a professional job but if you're covering it all with carpet anyway, the screws will work fine. Pre-drill before you put the screws in, they'll hold better and there will be far less chance of splitting the treads and the risers
     
  5. Sep 29, 2008 #5

    marif

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    Carpet was lifted and I saw the existing screws. Screwed more screws, but did not help. The creaking, at some places got worse, actually. I also noticed that when one goes down or up the stairs on one side close to the railing, there is hardly any creaking, but if one uses the other side of all the stairs, close to the wall, than it creaks a LOT.

    Anyway, the new carpet is already on - I was wondering if anything can be still be done?
     
  6. Sep 29, 2008 #6

    hondadrv24

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    do you have access to the stair treads from the bottom?
     
  7. Sep 30, 2008 #7

    marif

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    I do not. But I can cut the drywall a bit (dont want to cut the whole bit), if I know where to. The underneath of the stairs run in the basement, so it should be all right.
    Thanks for your reply hondadrv24, and any help will be appreciated.
    The noise bothers me, so am willing to do the necessary.
     
  8. Sep 30, 2008 #8

    inspectorD

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    If you fix the problem, how will you be able to hear anyone sneakin up the stairs?:D

    You need to tackle it from the bottom. Sheetrock is not hard to replace. How much do you want to fix it?

    Take the entire sheet out of the bottom of the stairs, holes are more time to fix.
     
  9. Sep 30, 2008 #9

    marif

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    thanks inspectorD and HondaDrv24.
    Any tips as to what to do, once the drywall is removed.
     
  10. Sep 30, 2008 #10

    inspectorD

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    Yup, clean up the mess.:D
    Oh you mean, I get it.
    You will need someone to walk on the stairs, mark where you here the squeaks, and shim with wood wedges you buy or make. Then glue them in with a "gorilla" glue wood be my suggestion. Polyurethane glues will expand a bit and fill the voids.
    Let it dry, so do this in the morning and go away for the day or night.:D

    You could also try screws from the back, but be carefull not to go through the tread or split the wood, it makes more squeaks.:)

    Post a picture if you can.
     
  11. Oct 1, 2008 #11

    roscoe19

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    If its glued at the point where the tread meets the riser and nailed down it shouldn't squeek
     
  12. Oct 1, 2008 #12

    roscoe19

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    there should be now reason to remove sheetrock
     
  13. Jan 12, 2011 #13

    joecaption

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    2" screws are way to short.
    What type screws did you use and did you predrill and counter sink the holes?
    If there to short there not going to hold, I would have used ceramic coated bugle head 3" deck screws
    If you did not predill and counter sink the screw will try and lift up on the tread and have no pulling power.
    They sell a special dril bit with a counter sink made right into it so it can be done in one pass. If you sink it to the correct depth you can go back and add wooden plugs and sand them smooth.
     

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