Deck support suggest

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floatr

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I was looking or the best option to building a additional block or support between the low built freestanding deck on piers i have and the house.This is pretty much like a flooring set up on low piers -piers come up a few inches of ground then the 2 by 10 then deck wood.The footers outside of home prevented beams from being against home.

Its only a 10 inch wide by 24 ft long area and its just a foot off the ground .

I have the concrete block of home to attach if i have to but would like to not have to. .
It is supporting 2 rows of decking wood before the doorway..

arrow in pic shows open area


Thanks for any suggestions

drawing deck space.jpg
 

nealtw

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Are in the job of building the deck or is it built already
If you are building the deck just canitever the joists closer to the house.
You stand up all your joist and nail your rim on the ends and then slide the whole system over close to the house and nail it down.

If the deck is already built you could remove the rim on that side add sisters to the joist. the sisters are cantilever x 3. Same thing you set them in place, attach the rim and slide it close to the house and then nail the sisters.
 

floatr

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Would that be like removing the sides and replacing them to the sides of the beams with longer boards or maybe attaching a 2 by 10 thats 1 foot longer to the sides so it reaches the house ?
Then attatching another 24 feet of board thats paralel to the beam to those 2 boards?

An then bracing between the beam and new 2 by 10 by 12s

Its already built , and the double 12 ft beams run along the home on top of piers

there is a pic showing a tad of the gap at bottom ..last deck board is not screwed to 2 by 10 beam yet ,
-ill try to get better pic also
thanks

NEEEW BUILD GAP.jpg
 
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joecaption

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No clue why but this poster has been on at least two other DIY sites.
One no pictures, next one he posted pictures.
This one he did not post any of the picture of the deck he's already built that he now wants to add onto.
He's framed it wrong.
There's no cantilever on any of the sides.
This site he chose to post a drawing that makes no since.
Anyone else on doityourself.com or diychatroom.com?
 

nealtw

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Confused me a little.
The deck should have been built so the 2x10 joists stuck out close to the house but not attached.
You can still do that. The rim joist is the one that is nearest the house and attached to the ends of all the others. You would remove that and add 6ft joists along side the other joists so they stick out close to the house.
The tricky part is the rim still has to go back on.
two ways that could be done, # 1 leave the new extentions or sister loose until you have the rim attached and slide it out as a unit or #2 install the new joists and use hangers to attach the rim joist.
No other support would be needed.
 

slownsteady

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Agreed it would have been better to solve this problem before the deck was built. It doesn't sound like he's going to like taking out the (double) rim joist, so maybe just build a small bridge at the doorway. And possibly put up a railing of some sort along the gap. Some folks around here have freestanding decks to avoid property taxes if the deck was attached to the house. Usually solved with a removable bridge.
 

nealtw

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Agreed it would have been better to solve this problem before the deck was built. It doesn't sound like he's going to like taking out the (double) rim joist, so maybe just build a small bridge at the doorway. And possibly put up a railing of some sort along the gap. Some folks around here have freestanding decks to avoid property taxes if the deck was attached to the house. Usually solved with a removable bridge.
They should learn how to build a cantilever, we have built these so the deck surface is 1" away from the house.
 

nealtw

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Would that be like removing the sides and replacing them to the sides of the beams with longer boards or maybe attaching a 2 by 10 thats 1 foot longer to the sides so it reaches the house ?
Then attatching another 24 feet of board thats paralel to the beam to those 2 boards?

An then bracing between the beam and new 2 by 10 by 12s

Its already built , and the double 12 ft beams run along the home on top of piers

there is a pic showing a tad of the gap at bottom ..last deck board is not screwed to 2 by 10 beam yet ,
-ill try to get better pic also
thanks
So; are you say the rim joist is the beam and the joists are not sitting on the beam?
 

slownsteady

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If the OP would supply links to his posts on other forums, we might be able to get a better grip of the situation
 

nealtw

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It is too bad he didn't bring this up when we were talking about the concrete peirs, it would have changed the discussion then.
 

floatr

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the double beams go longways 24 ft along home and one on outer end ,
the joist go 10 ft attached to the beams-- similar framing as to floor joist.

just like flooring since all i have is 11 inches from ground to door .

I can use outer sides of double 10 inch beam to reach home .Note there are no 4 by4s anywhere in main support framing.

It is not complicated at all...-
i just need to add the 2 ft to the double beam..

Ill just add outer boards to the sides to reach home an attach the joining board-BLUEin pic to the concrete block and put in several rows of blocking-RED in pic -.between them..then there will be a stable support for the 2 rows of decking before home. ..
=that will support the 10 inch wide by 24 ft long area on top of the home footers that go out a foot and block anything from being dug out .there,

In pic the the brown and the blue are the 2 bys i will add to the frame and red boards for bracing ,,the pic is without deck boards--they go long ways

new drawing.jpg
 
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nealtw

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home footers that go out and block anything from being dug out .there,
Is this the footer for the house? How far from the house does it extend? Is it close to the surface of the ground.
 

nealtw

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No clue why but this poster has been on at least two other DIY sites.
One no pictures, next one he posted pictures.
This one he did not post any of the picture of the deck he's already built that he now wants to add onto.
He's framed it wrong.
There's no cantilever on any of the sides.
This site he chose to post a drawing that makes no since.
Anyone else on doityourself.com or diychatroom.com?
Joe; he was here asking questions about the peirs and we didn't ask enough quetions at the time, so as a group we can take some blame for mistakes.;)
 

bud16415

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If your deck is free floating and subject to movement you should not attach the add-on to your house. You should have built it as talked about as a cantilever and extended it close to the house but not touching. The deck I built last year is about like yours and it comes to one inch of touching the house. It is free to float and is not considered part of the house. It is free standing as should be yours. The correct way is as Neal described to fix yours at this point and what I would do.
Anything you scab on the edge will only be as good as how you have your rim attached. Seeing as how you are only needing such a small extension and the main joists are carrying almost all the load your extensions could be smaller. I would remove 4 or 5 rows of the decking and then notch the rim you have on there now to let 2x6 extensions to pass thru. Build the whole thing up and drop it in place and sister the extensions to the joists with the new rim already attached. Then deck over it.
 

nealtw

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If your deck is free floating and subject to movement you should not attach the add-on to your house. You should have built it as talked about as a cantilever and extended it close to the house but not touching. The deck I built last year is about like yours and it comes to one inch of touching the house. It is free to float and is not considered part of the house. It is free standing as should be yours. The correct way is as Neal described to fix yours at this point and what I would do.
Anything you scab on the edge will only be as good as how you have your rim attached. Seeing as how you are only needing such a small extension and the main joists are carrying almost all the load your extensions could be smaller. I would remove 4 or 5 rows of the decking and then notch the rim you have on there now to let 2x6 extensions to pass thru. Build the whole thing up and drop it in place and sister the extensions to the joists with the new rim already attached. Then deck over it.
Won't work, the beam is the rim and I think the joists are hung oof of it, his idea of of just setting something on blocks might be the only answer.
If I am understanding the situation correctly.
 

bud16415

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Won't work, the beam is the rim and I think the joists are hung oof of it, his idea of of just setting something on blocks might be the only answer.
If I am understanding the situation correctly.
Oh wow. Ya I was assuming he set the joists on top of the beam just without any overhang kind of how I built mine but he used hangers or something to keep the whole deck thinner. In that case if the hangers are attached well and only needing a foot more I might build a thing that looks like a 12” wide ladder out of 2x6 the full length of the deck and bolt it thru the beam/rim. Then everyplace I had a post run an angled brace from the bottom of the post up to ladder frame for support.
 

nealtw

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Oh wow. Ya I was assuming he set the joists on top of the beam just without any overhang kind of how I built mine but he used hangers or something to keep the whole deck thinner. In that case if the hangers are attached well and only needing a foot more I might build a thing that looks like a 12” wide ladder out of 2x6 the full length of the deck and bolt it thru the beam/rim. Then everyplace I had a post run an angled brace from the bottom of the post up to ladder frame for support.
He could postthe ladder dpown to the footing.
 

bud16415

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He could postthe ladder dpown to the footing.
Ya I don’t know what he has for a footing. My guess is those concrete blocks like I used with a socket for a 4x4. Ether screw the angle brace to the post or set the angle brace on top of the footing. Maybe do both.
 

nealtw

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Ya I don’t know what he has for a footing. My guess is those concrete blocks like I used with a socket for a 4x4. Ether screw the angle brace to the post or set the angle brace on top of the footing. Maybe do both.
He was that far away because the footing was in the way so he could go down to the footing and drill in a gal. bucket for 4x4 and use underground rated 4x4 to support the edge of the ladder, the concrete blocks he spoke of would be subject to frost.
 

bud16415

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He was that far away because the footing was in the way so he could go down to the footing and drill in a gal. bucket for 4x4 and use underground rated 4x4 to support the edge of the ladder, the concrete blocks he spoke of would be subject to frost.
That will work as long as his deck posts are not subject to frost movement and they are down to depth. In my case the deck is floating and can move if it wants. Last winter the frost went down a good 5’ my deck didn’t care it lifted about an inch. I left it 3” below the outswing door and 2” lower than the house floor. Come spring it went back down. If it was nailed I might have to worry over time it getting loosened up but the screws seem to just let it flex and mostly move as one unit.

I’m not sure what a gallon bucket is to drill in?????
 
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