I am removing the wall from K to LR it is load bearing app 8ft 6in long. when i remove the wall will i need to suport the joists on each side of this wall. for the beam i am using 2 2x8s and 1 1/2in. plywood nailed as one beam 8ft6in long will this be ok or do i need more. and if i need suport can i just build out of 2x4s or do i need jack post
don,t let the roof fall in
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Help Support House Repair Talk:
glennjanie
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Hello Dougone and Welcome to the Forum:
Go to the attic access and look in; if you have trusses running perpendicular to the wall in question, you won't have to support the opening at all. Trusses are designed for full span support; all you would need to do is repair the vacancy left by the wall.
On the other hand; if you have joists and rafters and the joists are spliced over the wall, then yes you do need to support both sides. I would put in a 2"X4" for each joist, I would also use a 2"X6" or 2"X8" on the ceiling and floor to distribute the load evenly.
The beam sounds fine if it is needed; it could be made much stronger by sandwiching a steel plate rather than the plywood. The plywood core can be glued and nailed in place and doesn't cost near as much as steel, and the steel would have to have lots of bolts through it to make it work. Let us know how it turns out, maybe some pictures too.
Glenn
Go to the attic access and look in; if you have trusses running perpendicular to the wall in question, you won't have to support the opening at all. Trusses are designed for full span support; all you would need to do is repair the vacancy left by the wall.
On the other hand; if you have joists and rafters and the joists are spliced over the wall, then yes you do need to support both sides. I would put in a 2"X4" for each joist, I would also use a 2"X6" or 2"X8" on the ceiling and floor to distribute the load evenly.
The beam sounds fine if it is needed; it could be made much stronger by sandwiching a steel plate rather than the plywood. The plywood core can be glued and nailed in place and doesn't cost near as much as steel, and the steel would have to have lots of bolts through it to make it work. Let us know how it turns out, maybe some pictures too.
Glenn
thanks for your reply glennjanie. this wall rests on a steel beam suported jack posts in the basment the second flour joists meat at this point. the attic i will have to look at this weekend i do rember that the attic has trusses. this town home is 8 years old. i just assumed that it was load bearing steel beam flour joist and all if it is not load i will still have to suport upper flour with beam correct. and can i suport this beam with 1 2x4 at each end of beam or do i need 2 2x4 at each end. if no need to suport joists then i plan to remove wall with sawsall were joists are naild to this wall and replace with 1 upright 2x4 at each end ? nailed to the wall, I have all the dry wall down i just look at cutting the wall out and get some what nerves as this is my house not a frind or neibours thanks dougone
glennjanie
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Hey Dougone:
I didn't realize there were 2 stories. Yes the steel beam below needs to stay and there needs to be a beam to hold the second floor. The beam needs 2 2"X4"s at each end for support. There also should be full support on each side of the wall for the second floor as you remove it and put the beam in. Yes, there could be a collapse if it is not supported fully. The floor joists on both floors should still be spliced with the 18 ga. sheet metal plates after drawing them up tight. That will remedy the opening that is there and keep it from showing up again.
Glenn
I didn't realize there were 2 stories. Yes the steel beam below needs to stay and there needs to be a beam to hold the second floor. The beam needs 2 2"X4"s at each end for support. There also should be full support on each side of the wall for the second floor as you remove it and put the beam in. Yes, there could be a collapse if it is not supported fully. The floor joists on both floors should still be spliced with the 18 ga. sheet metal plates after drawing them up tight. That will remedy the opening that is there and keep it from showing up again.
Glenn
ks_tornado_chic
Frustrated w/ a 1925 Home
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Hi doug!
We have a house built in 1925 that the owners did a similar thing to and removed a wall that NEEDS to be there. There are trusses in the attic (from what we can tell... but who knows with those people) but the ceiling is still beginning to show signs of falling in (see my gallery). Anyways, be careful when you do this, make sure to put a beam along the ceiling to give a little more support... depending on the age of the house then you'll need to do some MAJOR patching, etc... (ours involved the ceiling and the floor!)
Good luck with it and I hope it turns out for ya.
Hannah
We have a house built in 1925 that the owners did a similar thing to and removed a wall that NEEDS to be there. There are trusses in the attic (from what we can tell... but who knows with those people) but the ceiling is still beginning to show signs of falling in (see my gallery). Anyways, be careful when you do this, make sure to put a beam along the ceiling to give a little more support... depending on the age of the house then you'll need to do some MAJOR patching, etc... (ours involved the ceiling and the floor!)
Good luck with it and I hope it turns out for ya.
Hannah
