Drywall in window frames?

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TaskBoy

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I installed a 3h x 4w window in my drywalled garage wall. It's framed with 2 x 4s and the header, which show--I want to cover them with 1/2 inch drywall and a corner bead for appearance. The depth of the window sill/frame is only about 2 1/2 inches. Do I have to tape and mud these inside corners or can I just run a bead of caulk along them since they are butt joints and the corner bead covers 1/3 their width? I hope the description made sense.
 
Not sure what you mean but any joints in drywall have to be taped or it will crack.
 
My opinion is if you wan i o look good then you need to do the mud and taping.
 
Hi guys, after writing the o.p., I realized I am mudding the bead anyway so no big deal to do a little tape.
 
Task,
I have this exact question. I haven't worked with corner bead yet. It's a task I'm putting off until all the drywall is up and all inside corners are taped & floated. Could you up load a picture?

This past weekend we spent tearing out the drywall and redoing our pocket door. We did it wrong last weekend. We figured this out after studying the trim around Daryl's bathroom door.

I have 3 windows to do.
 
SPI, corner bead is easy. I do them last, too. I use vinyl bead adhered with 3M corner bead spray adhesive and no nails or screws. Metal bead with small galvanized nails is good too. All you do is stick it on per can instructions and mud it running your mud knife along the bead. The mud naturally feathers out onto the drywall. One coat is usually all that is needed. Just lightly sand if at all and that is it. On inside corners with the bead like on a window frame, miter the bead where the pieces meet on the wall. I did a similar install on a recessed light box but not sure where pix are sorry. I won't be getting to my window for a bit due to the holidays. I'll post them up when I do it but maybe you'll be into yours already. Corner bead is waaaay easier than inside corners so if you can do ICs, you can easily handle the bead.
 
Hello TaskBoy:
Getting back to your original question; yes you could use caulk for the inside corner next to the window. It is the best way to make dissimiliar surfaces come together. You should use a paintable silicone caulk so it can stand minor movement without cracking.
Glenn
 
TaskBoy:
I'm waiting for the holidays to be over. There's too much Ho Ho Ho to get done before working on the house. We bought the corner metal bead. We'd perfer really crisp corners not bullnose. The spray sounds better than feathering out over screw/nail heads. Plus with the salty air - we have rust through at times with the metal. So we are thinking it through. Please post pictures when you get around to it. We're thinking the LVL beam will go up before the bead.

Glenn / anyone - what do you put on drywall butting up to brick? Will caulk work?
 
TaskBoy:
I'm waiting for the holidays to be over. There's too much Ho Ho Ho to get done before working on the house. We bought the corner metal bead. We'd perfer really crisp corners not bullnose. The spray sounds better than feathering out over screw/nail heads. Plus with the salty air - we have rust through at times with the metal. So we are thinking it through. Please post pictures when you get around to it. We're thinking the LVL beam will go up before the bead.

Glenn / anyone - what do you put on drywall butting up to brick? Will caulk work?

The vinyl bead I got is square-edged but it does come in bullnosed. The spray is just to stick it down instead of nails. I just did some metal bead replacement using the nails (I used 1.5 inch galvanized sunk slightly below the metal) and the bead mudded over nicely pretty much the same as the sq. plastic one. To mud the bead, I used a 10 inch knife, loaded it with mud and had it hang over the bead off the wall a couple inches and just pulled down to apply and feather mud in one shot. I have no idea if the pros do it like that but I have many times with fine results. I'll probably will get to the window after the first of the year as I have to finish other stuff first.
 
Hello SPISurfer:
Yes, a high quality siliconized caulk will work well with any two dissimilar surfaces.
A small piece of wood trim, like a base shoe, will cover the crack and allow for some limited movement.
Glenn
 

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