Dumb question on shower valve install

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum' started by EdNerd, Sep 4, 2017.

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  1. Sep 4, 2017 #1

    EdNerd

    EdNerd

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    I'm replacing the existing single-handle shower valve with a new Delta valve .

    My dumb question: the valve is encased in a black plastic "box", actually a round thing around the valve body, and extending out over the cartridge. The plastic around the valve body is marked to show you where to set the finished surface to.

    I can see where the part over the cartridge clearly says to break it off. But nowhere in the instructions or any YouTube videos do I see whether to remove the plastic around the valve body??

    I would assume yes - but assuming has gotten me into trouble before....

    Ed
     
  2. Sep 4, 2017 #2

    zannej

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    Do you have a photo to show us? That would help to figure out what sort of box you're talking about.
     
  3. Sep 4, 2017 #3

    Snoonyb

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    After you have set the valve and finished the wall there are 2 screws securing the black plastic to the valve body, these correspond with the two screw holes in the chrome trim. Remove the black plastic and install the trim.
     
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  4. Sep 5, 2017 #4

    EdNerd

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    Here is the valve I bought.

    valve1.jpg

    valve2.jpg
     
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  5. Sep 5, 2017 #5

    EdNerd

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    Makes sense -- I wouldn't be able to install the trim plate without first removing the plastic piece. Thanks!!

    Ed
     
  6. Sep 5, 2017 #6

    EdNerd

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    One more question - the original valve is plumbed in copper. I hate sweating copper! I was thinking of using the Shark Bite threaded push-on adapters to convert to PVC or CPVC to install this. (The valve has threaded inlets.)

    This is going behind a tub kit wall. Would you trust the Shark Bite fittings for 20 years?

    Ed
     
  7. Sep 5, 2017 #7

    Snoonyb

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    If you can, use copper and brass fittings from the sharkbite too the valve.

    I would trust them, however that begs another question; is there access behind the valve and what type of foundation are you on?

    The reason is how would you know if they began leaking?
     
  8. Sep 5, 2017 #8

    zannej

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    Just FYI, most plumbing codes now prohibit PVC for use as water supply in the house (it's to make it easier for inspectors so they don't have to try to sort out which is for hot water and which is for cold water because PVC is *not* approved for hot water-- it starts to leech chemicals into the water at about 158F). CPVC, copper, and PEX are allowed though.

    If you're not having it inspected, you can probably get away with using PVC for cold water only. But it might just be simpler to use CPVC or PEX instead.

    I was just asking about Sharkbite fittings earlier and I believe Frodo said they were only good for sinkers on fishing lines. LOL. But maybe that was just for PEX?

    I, too, am wary of the idea of sweating copper (I don't trust my luck to try it out), so I completely understand.

    Hopefully, you can find a solution here. I'd love to see pictures once you get things set up. Also, if you don't get the answer you're looking for here, there is a sister forum called plumbingforums.com. Many people from there post here as well though.
     
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  9. Sep 5, 2017 #9

    EdNerd

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    Concrete foundation. Kitchen is right behind the bathroom, so I have access thru the wall under the sink. Only way I would know of a leak is water either soaking through the wall under the sink or puddling across the floor. And floors are all (or will be) grouted ceramic tile.

    Ed
     
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  10. Sep 5, 2017 #10

    Snoonyb

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    The alternative to sharkbite are regular compression fittings.
     
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  11. Sep 6, 2017 #11

    EdNerd

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    I've used those with PVC pipe in sprinkler systems. Even on the main line they worked okay. Not real sure I want to trust that inside my house though. But if the valve is secured and the fitting just has to seal the pipe and not hold it against slipping out, I should be okay.

    I just know that, just because it's not leaking when you finish, you have zero guarantee after you close up the wall!!

    Ed
     
  12. Sep 6, 2017 #12

    Snoonyb

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    Compression fittings are more reliable than sharkbite, when the pipe may be slightly out of round.

    Creating a removable access point under the kitchen sink should give you some piece of mind.

    Good luck.
     
  13. Sep 6, 2017 #13

    slownsteady

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    ...or practice in the fine art of sweating pipe.
    Sweat the pipe, test it, and close up the wall for twenty years.
     
  14. Sep 6, 2017 #14

    EdNerd

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    Hate to go buy a torch kit for four 1/2" fittings!
    'Course - it would probably be a dozen fittings and three lengths of pipe by the time I'm done!!

    Valve.jpg
     
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  15. Sep 6, 2017 #15

    frodo

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    ..............

    Valve.jpg
     
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  16. Sep 6, 2017 #16

    EdNerd

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    Pretty much what I had planned, frodo. Thanks!
     
  17. Sep 6, 2017 #17

    Snoonyb

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    That addresses the supply but not the tub and shower.
     
  18. Sep 6, 2017 #18

    frodo

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    the same thing, use cpvc on the shower head with a drop eared 90 and
    use 6'' brass nipple and a brass 90,for the spout
    stub out of the wall with a brass nipple
     
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  19. Sep 7, 2017 #19

    Snoonyb

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    Thanks, now he has the whole story.
     
  20. Oct 11, 2017 #20

    EdNerd

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    Just to close everything out --
    We had our floors tiled. And the tile guy made us an offer on tiling up the shower walls that included getting a real live plumber in to set the new valve and do everything else.

    Got 'er done!! :8>)
     
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