DWV pipe coupling from 1-1/2" ABS to 1-1/2" ABS?

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redwood1922

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I have a tight spot in the attic crawl where a new waste vent for a new sink will go. It would be easier to use 2 neoprene transition couplings for 1-1/2 inch ABS to 1-1/2 inch ABS, if there is such a thing, instead of using ABS adhesive in this position. Is there a Proflex/Fernco/PlumbQuick or Mission part that will do it?

This is the type of coupling I am talking about but I can't understand Fernco's or Mission's descriptions. The letters ABS do not appear in these descriptions.
https://www.fernco.com/plumbing/shielded-couplings/proflex-couplings
https://missionrubber.com/products/band-seal-specialty-couplings/

Why I'm doing it: I might need to undo it a few times (less than 3-4 times) over the next few years in order to get access to a corner of the house that will be blocked by the new vent pipe. If you tell me I will need to replace the couplers every time they're disturbed, fine. It's true I could try to route it around the access route and use ABS adhesive instead, but there are safety risks in the alternate route. The alternate area is even tighter and there is knob and tube wiring there. I believe it is not practical to rewire.
 
Use a couple union joints, so they can be unscrewed to remove the section of pipe that would be in your way, for access?
Your option would work too.
 
Neither are product specific and because they are neopreme they will last virtually forever, the exception of course, is the threaded clamps, which can be replaced with like products.
 
Thanks for responses. You helped me figure out the part number. Seems to be Fernco 3000-150
"1-1/2" CI, PL or ST to 1-1/2" CI, PL, or ST "
"connects cast iron, plastic, steel, copper and tubular, drain waste and vent systems for above-ground applications" [my emphasis]
They give the Mission equivalent as CP-150
I suppose I better buy 4, use 2, keep 2 spares. Gary, union joints metal pipe are a good idea, However in this case I want to use ABS, easier to cut, adjust angles, and use adhesive in a space that has plenty of room for pipe but not much room for my body to squeeze into. Local code doesn't allow threaded ABS or not in DWV anyway.

Holy moly, the torque wrenches for these couplings are like $40 to $120. When the plumber does the rough in downstairs I wonder if I can borrow one. But I might spend the $40 anyway.
 
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Why, a vent line should have 0 pressure, a simple nut driver or screwdriver will work fine.
 
Wow Snoonyb, thanks for that Lowe's link for the wrench at only seven bucks!
 
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Why, a vent line should have 0 pressure, a simple nut driver or screwdriver will work fine.

Yes, it's probably overkill. But, each year we get 1-2 mild but noticeable earthquakes here. Might last longer with torque. Maybe this is the reason local code says ABS joints have to comply with "manufacturer's installation instructions".
 
Use a couple union joints, so they can be unscrewed to remove the section of pipe that would be in your way, for access?
Your option would work too.
Gary, I just looked it up and threaded ABS would be to code - for some reason I mistakenly thought it wasn't. So I learned something from what you wrote. I will see if I can find the threaded ABS angles in in the store. I mostly see the press-on/glue-on kind but now I know what to look for.
 
There is no such animal for ABS.
ABS
p_1000120764.png
 
He's talking about threaded unions, and they are not available for ABS.
 
Exactly whay I was thinking .

Wyr
God bless

That's fine, except you need a water column, to pass inspection, or you could torque the fitting after they leak, recall the inspection, and ruin the ceiling.
 
Yes, there are threaded ABS fitting, but they are limited in application and are generally found in trap arms and clean out plugs, which are visible as well as easily accessed.

Waste and vent lines are required to be tested with an 8' water column.
 
Thanks for the tip. I didn't realize about the water column test but it doesn't worry me, this baby is totally going to hold water. I'm also keeping photos of parts as they go in so nobody has to crawl up there if they don't want to.
 
Building officials are a "show me" group, because of liability.
 
Yes, for example I arranged the copper roof penetration so that the yellow marks will be visible and I photographed a copper bend with the DWV stamp before it went in, the stamp is hidden by now but you'll be able to see the that other end of the bend matches the photo. (BTW I had a plumber sweat the bend and I kept the receipt. I carefully isolated the copper from galvanized flashing nearby. I am doing everything by the book. Cause I'm the guy who would get punished for fighting in school even though I was never the one who started fights.)
 
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