(entry) door knob question

[slownsteady]

a knob that unlocks when I twist it from the inside because some Einstein thought it was a good design to save literally less than a second to turn the lock before you open the door. This was either a marketing ploy, and/or I surmise that there was likely a cost-cutting tactic, and they are pushing the "feature" under the guise of protection "in case there is a fire". It would have been more believable to say they did it for someone with an injured arm, or carrying a gun or phone.

I'll bet it has more to do with legal liability than marketing. It's a sure bet that someone who experienced a loss will be contacted by a lawyer who want to bring suit against the lock company for preventing a quick escape.

 

[nealtw]

I'll bet it has more to do with legal liability than marketing. It's a sure bet that someone who experienced a loss will be contacted by a lawyer who want to bring suit against the lock company for preventing a quick escape.

Nah, it's about making locks that work with a key pad or remote.

 

[Sparky617]

Schlage locks have worked where the knob turns with the door locked for decades. My 18 year old Schlage locks do this on my current house. Qwikset Locks operate where you have to turn the lock mechanism first to turn the knob.

With the older pushbutton Schlage locks the button would pop out when you turned the knob.

 

[Mastercarpenty]

All push-button knobs release when turned (do they even make those anymore? ain't seen none in years) and some thumb-turn knobs do too. Those which do not release automatically are still made- most cheap locks are like that. This type may not meet egress code in commercial or office use but they are fine in residential homes.

You can't 'credit card' a properly set entry knob. The little piece beside the main plunger is an anti-jimmy device and is not supposed to enter the strike hole with the main plunger when the door closes. If the little piece is held in, once the main plunger extends it cannot be pushed back manually- only turning the knob can then move the plunger. It takes a bit more precise work to get there but you won't credit-card the locks I install, promise

Someone earlier mentioned 2-keyed deadbolts. Most fire codes no longer allow those anywhere at an egress door since they key could be elsewhere when you need to get out fast. That presents a security issue sometimes so what I do for those (installed after final inspection and move-in) is to tie a string to the key which is just under half the distance to the floor from the lock, then thumbtack the string to the side of the casing where it can't be seen from the outside but can be quickly found in an emergency by feel and can't get lost due to the string and thumbtack, but can quickly be used by feel alone. Still not to the letter of the code but it solves the security problem and meets the intent of the code well enough.

Phil

 

[Sparky617]

All push-button knobs release when turned

You can't 'credit card' a properly set entry knob. The little piece beside the main plunger is an anti-jimmy device and is not supposed to enter the strike hole with the main plunger when the door closes. If the little piece is held in, once the main plunger extends it cannot be pushed back manually- only turning the knob can then move the plunger. It takes a bit more precise work to get there but you won't credit-card the locks I install, promise

Phil

IF the strike plate opening is small enough to keep the locking plunger depressed when the door is locked it will prevent the latch from being depressed. I just tested my backdoor and I was able to credit card open it despite the extra plunger on the lock. If you're depending on the door knob latch to keep your door locked from intruders you're engaging in a lot of wishful thinking. Even a deadbolt won't stop a determined intruder as most door frames will give way to a large person kicking the door. A deadbolt with an alarm system sign/sticker whether you have an alarm or not is probably a stronger deterrent. Thieves want to get in and get out as quietly as possible. The threat of setting off an alarm system will deter many.

 

[Mastercarpenty]

The strike openings I've seen are all large enough to accommodate both plungers which is why strike adjustment gets tricky. Use a flashlight and look closely at your rear door and you'll find either the small plunger piece enters the hole or the gap is so wide that the little piece isn't being depressed far enough to function. Try it with the door open- depress the small plunger then try to push the large plunger back- it shouldn't go.

The newer door-frames with push-in weatherstripping are tough to get the strike adjusted correctly because slamming the door or using extra force in closing it will allow the small piece to enter the strike hole, which defeats it's function. That also misaligns the deadbolt strike setting causing it to not work. The weatherstripping also deforms and 'takes a set' over time requiring another strike adjustment session to compensate. Hard to get those buggers done right.

Door security is important but any thief with more than half their wits about them will find another way in if they can't get through the door easily enough. Most of the builder-grade entry does are wimpy nowadays so there's only so far it's worth going to secure them. And even the best door is only as strong as the frame/strike set-up which must be solidly shimmed and screwed through to the framing. Even then it's not that tough to get through quickly if you have the right tools.

Phil

 

[Sparky617]

Door security is important but any thief with more than half their wits about them will find another way in if they can't get through the door easily enough. Most of the builder-grade entry does are wimpy nowadays so there's only so far it's worth going to secure them. And even the best door is only as strong as the frame/strike set-up which must be solidly shimmed and screwed through to the framing. Even then it's not that tough to get through quickly if you have the right tools.

This is why I use the deadbolt and don't worry about the door knob lock. Yes, if I hold the extra tab in the lock won't depress.

 

[dmiller236]

:agree:

I think what you have is called a “Quick release” exterior door knob. The idea is in an emergency panic situation you get out as quickly as possible with just turning the handle. It doesn’t change your security level it just makes it simpler to operate. You can get other configurations even with a key on both sides if you want. I think all the quick release types cancel the lock when the door is opened. If you want to lock yourself out you would need to turn the thumb knob straight up and down again. I check mine by looking at it and seeing if the thumb know is up and down.

If this is so then Chamberlain 7702CB Quick Release Lock is a good one.

 

[Snoonyb]

:agree:

If this is so then Chamberlain 7702CB Quick Release Lock is a good one.

If you are using garage door openers for your entry doors;https://www.chamberlain.com/garage-tools/safety-and-convenience/quick-release-key

And the product is no longer available.