extending the high efficancy intake and outtake?

Discussion in 'HVAC' started by bryce, Jan 20, 2014.

  1. Jan 20, 2014 #1

    bryce

    bryce

    bryce

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    Any special rules for extending these pipes? Mine looks like this but the ice and snow are up about the down spout of the intake pipe. Is is solid ice around, i have been digging it out and removing the snow as best as i can. I was thinking i should extended the intake pipe about 2-3 feet upward then do the down spout. The exhaust could also go up 2-3feet.
    The other option would be to build a little roof around it...:confused:[​IMG]
     
  2. Jan 20, 2014 #2

    kok328

    kok328

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    Actually, yes, there are code requirements regarding the distance of the pipes from/to each other and proximity to doors and windows. Check with your local code dept. and see if your proposal will fit within their parameters. Sorry, I couldn't be more specific but, having an awareness of the governing codes is all you need, the rest can be researched.
     
  3. Jan 25, 2014 #3

    bryce

    bryce

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    Hi there, what do you think about just extending the intake pipe with a 6' flex hose, perhaps a bit bigger diameter. The hose would loop up and hang off the siding to the left. This would solve the snowmegedan problem.

    The other option would be heating cables. I have about 4' of ice in that has slide off the roof. I wonder if a small dog house with an open front would be a good idea for next winter?
     
  4. Jan 28, 2014 #4

    nealtw

    nealtw

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    I think you could do what ever works with the intake. With the exhaust remember it is sloped down hill to drain water. If you build your doghouse put a divider in so the intake isn't using the same air.
     
  5. Jan 28, 2014 #5

    bryce

    bryce

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    The problem is the snow and sometime big ice slides off the roof and can land right in front of the vents blocking them happen one time but it kept running.
    The intake vent is the only one getting blocked, that why a 6' snorkel would be a simple solution, maybe i should contact the manufacture?
    I figured out to melt the ice with hot water, i should remove some more from the area. The pipes would be better on the other side then not prone to ice bombs.

    ABC_1377.jpg

    ABC_1378a.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2014
  6. Jan 28, 2014 #6

    nealtw

    nealtw

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    Metal roof??
     
  7. Jan 29, 2014 #7

    seafrog

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    length , size , positioning & number of elbows of each ( vent & inlet ) pipes are specified in the installation manual for your model # indicated on data plate of the 90% furnace . after a bit of reading up on it I ended up with my vent ( exhaust ) through roof capped with a T fitting & the inlet terminates at peak inside attic with down swept 90 . if feasible I would contact equipment installing contractor . if you opt for the viable snorkel idea , as close to outside wall as possible increase PVC size by 1" and keep the run as short as possible . if installed w/o glue the snorkel could be removed as weather permits . good luck :)
     
  8. Apr 2, 2014 #8

    bryce

    bryce

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    Yes it is the metal roof, so if forms and slides off, which maybe not bad idea to get excessive weight off the roof.

    I think now the best solution is move the pipes to the side of the house so the massive ice blocks don't slide down and block the pipes. It will be much easier to shovel.:)

    I wonder what happens if the pipes are blocked? Will the furnace shut down automatically or will i be poisoned by CO2?
     
  9. Apr 2, 2014 #9

    Wuzzat?

    Wuzzat?

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    The pressure sensors in the furnace may shut it down but a few CO detectors around the house are a good idea.
    I suppose the furnace will not be damaged by having each or both pipes totally plugged because this event is reasonably foreseeable and should be foreseen by the furnace maker, but I wouldn't try this.
    It's kind of like testing circuit breakers by shorting an outlet. You can do it but be prepared to replace a bad breaker or to trace down a connection somewhere that has now failed to an open circuit.

    For a DIY project I guess you could rig up a 'snow detecting device' controlling a 24vac forced hot air source that clears the snow.

    http://www.d.umn.edu/natsrl/documents/FY2003reports/IRID_2003.pdf
    and
    http://www.google.st/patents/US6276202
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2014
  10. Apr 2, 2014 #10

    slownsteady

    slownsteady

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    If you do the snorkel, make sure that the intake is not going to pull exhaust fumes from the other pipe. I'm sure that's why they face in opposite directions to begin with.
     
  11. Apr 2, 2014 #11

    Wuzzat?

    Wuzzat?

    Wuzzat?

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    You could put a UV emitter on one pipe and a detector on the other one. If the path of light is blocked you've got a problem. You might find an online kit that does this for $30 or so.
     
  12. Apr 3, 2014 #12

    slownsteady

    slownsteady

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    just a little shed roof; no sides, no front.
     

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