Faceplate doesn't fit above new countertop backsplash... replace box?

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soparklion11

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I had my kitchen cabinets replaced and the backsplash is now at the level of the screws on the faceplate of the old electrical box - see photo, I cannot cutdown a faceplate and screw it in. I don't think that I can slide the switch up high enough to allow me to use the lower screws either. Is there a way to adjust the box without replacing it? Perhaps change to another switch style so that the faceplate connected higher up, further from the backsplash?

Faceplate
 
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I think I would try cutting the faceplate to fit and use dabs of glue, caulking or carpet tape to secure the bottom with screws at the top.
 
I don't quite understand what you are describing, and I can't access the Amazon photo to see the image. Please upload it to the forum. This would help get you better replies.

Are you saying you need a box extender - something like this (this is a 2 gang but there are single gangs).

Box extender
Extender
 
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I understand where you might not want to raise the box at this point after the countertop is in place.



If you loosen the screws holding the switch in there may be enough slop in the slots to shove it up enough to get the lower screw hole high enough to attach a trimmed down cover plate. If not you could maybe remove the switches and take a Dremal tool and open the slot a little wider in the switch.



I have trimmed plastic cover plates before and used my belt sander to shave them down and get a nice flat surface.

If all the above doesn’t work then you will need to open the drywall and raise the box. If you are planning a back splash then the repair won’t have to be as fussy and you will want the box to extend out more anyway.
 
You may not even need screws in the bottom. Try trimming and sanding for a friction fit at the bottom and see if the top screws aren't sufficient. I can think of a couple of other approaches if this doesn't work. Whatever you do keep it simple or you will regret it.
 
(unfortunately) If you want to do it "correctly" you'll need to cut out the drywall (just be glad it's not a tile backsplash), pry the box out and move it up 1.5" or so and patch.

I'm sure that is exactly what you were trying to avoid, however it's the right way to do it and really not that big of a job.

Plus, if you were planning a tile backsplash, you may not need to do a perfect patch-job!
 
I would get a sabre saw and remove the switches the cut about 8 inches
higher and relocate both switches . The reason is that there is going to be water on the counter and it will flow into the boxes and short out or get someone electrocuted .
 
Were I the cabinet installer, I would have advised you of, this pending, out come, giving you the opportunity to correct the issue, while I worked other areas.

To correct now, secure the power, remove the switches, label the conductors, using a large screw driver, drive it in near the top and bottom of the box, between the box and the stud, using a sawzall cut the nails holding the box, without damaging the wall, remove the conductors from box, while removing the box.

About 1" or 2" above the hole, cut in a hole for a repair 2 gang box, insert the conductors and the box.

The downside to this occurs if one of the switches controls a disposal, and is fed down from the switch box, which means there is another "J" box needed.
 
Pull out the switches and see where the wires are coming from.
If they are coming from above, you can raise the switch 8" as suggested above.
If the wires are coming from below (or above and below) you probably won't have that much slack.
Today, electrician might put a bit of a loop before the box (not sure if that is code or just considered good practice), but in an older house, you never know what you got behind the plaster.
 
The OP has left the building and yet we keep going. Don't make a mountain out of a molehill. The OP stated that "the backsplash is now at the level of the screws on the faceplate of the old electrical box" so he should go for the simplest solution rather than a complex rework which will prolly lead to more problems.
 
There is likely at least three or four inches or more of available wire inside the box, for each conductor.

So you should be able to raise the box two inches or more, and still have enough wire length to enter the higher box location, then extend each wire with a short pigtail of five or six inches, to be able to comfortably wire up the switches again.
I would first cover the open section of wires with heat shrink tubing meant for wiring, to replace the nm cable insulation which will be missing there.
If these wires are in conduit, the extension will be more complicated.

You might need to use a repair or “old work” box as suggested.
Or sometimes you can just drill a few holes in the side, and then screw it tightly to the stud.
You can also place a small wood block on the opposite side, and screw into that.
So the box will not be floppy.
 
Eddie_T said:
The OP has left the building and yet we keep going. Don't make a mountain out of a molehill. The OP stated that "the backsplash is now at the level of the screws on the faceplate of the old electrical box" so he should go for the simplest solution rather than a complex rework which will prolly lead to more problems.
Click to expand...
It has only been two days.
Besides, once we start noodling it can be hard to shut down so easy, haha.
 
Eddie_T said:
The OP has left the building and yet we keep going. Don't make a mountain out of a molehill. The OP stated that "the backsplash is now at the level of the screws on the faceplate of the old electrical box" so he should go for the simplest solution rather than a complex rework which will prolly lead to more problems.
Click to expand...
Sorry, I'm back and trying to digest all of this. I agree, if I can pay $2 each for two toggle switches and drop them into the existing box, a wood faceplate is ~$5 and will be easier to cut than a plastic one, which I would need to use a sander to trim. I'm in for $9 solution since it meets code and won't be an issue during a home inspection. Thank you all!
 
Steve123 said:
Pull out the switches and see where the wires are coming from.
If they are coming from above, you can raise the switch 8" as suggested above.
If the wires are coming from below (or above and below) you probably won't have that much slack.
Today, electrician might put a bit of a loop before the box (not sure if that is code or just considered good practice), but in an older house, you never know what you got behind the plaster.
Click to expand...
It is wired from below. House built 1940's.
 
billshack said:
I would get a sabre saw and remove the switches the cut about 8 inches
higher and relocate both switches . The reason is that there is going to be water on the counter and it will flow into the boxes and short out or get someone electrocuted .
Click to expand...
The existing backsplash is ~4" off of the surface of the counter and 1" wide. I don't think that it is possible for water to pool there.
 
Eddie_T said:
You may not even need screws in the bottom. Try trimming and sanding for a friction fit at the bottom and see if the top screws aren't sufficient. I can think of a couple of other approaches if this doesn't work. Whatever you do keep it simple or you will regret it.
Click to expand...
Do electrical codes cover faceplates? I don't know if there is a standard for me to meet... I think that I can swap these out to simple toggles that have higher screws and just trim off the bottom portion pretty easily...
 
soparklion11 said:
Do electrical codes cover faceplates? I don't know if there is a standard for me to meet... I think that I can swap these out to simple toggles that have higher screws and just trim off the bottom portion pretty easily...
Click to expand...
I would do exactly this. As far as I know code just requires it covered so there is no way to get anything inside the box.

The regular covers come in the hard brittle type and you can also get them made from a more flexible plastic that can be cut easier. I happen to have a upright standing belt sander so that is what I used, but they can be cut and sanded by hand any number of ways.
 
You can also get metal faceplates.
I would get metal.
Easy to rough cut with a jig saw (saber saw) with a fine metal cutting blade.
Then fancy up the cut right to the line with a file or with a belt sander.
Caulk around the bottom and one inch up the sides, both to keep water out and to secure the bottom where the two screws will be eliminated.
A wood faceplate might rot out or warp, from splashed water, or from moisture sucked in during counter cleaning.
I suppose you could also apply several coats of spray polyurethane or rainproofing type spray, on both sides, to try to waterproof it somewhat.
 
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