Fan only staying on for a few seconds and then shutting off- AC not cooling

[Snoonyb]

Were it I, I wouldn't amend, or extend that tube, because, after all, how many instances of the TPR valve actually activating, would you anticipate, and what would it's actual activation, actually hurt?

 

[Snoonyb]

While I've used both metal and plastic, as approved by the local constabulatory, here is the code, and the item you listed, does comply;

TABLE 605.4WATER DISTRIBUTION PIPE

	MATERIAL	STANDARD
	Chlorinated polyvinyl chloride (CPVC) plastic pipe and tubing	ASTM D2846; ASTM F441; ASTM F442; CSA B137.6
	Chlorinated polyvinyl chloride/aluminum/chlorinated polyvinyl chloride (CPVC/AL/CPVC)	ASTM F2855
	Copper or copper-alloy pipe	ASTM B42; ASTM B302; ASTM B43
	Copper or copper-alloy tubing (Type K, WK, L, WL, M or WM)	ASTM B75; ASTM B88; ASTM B251; ASTM B447
	Cross-linked polyethylene (PEX) plastic tubing	ASTM F876; CSA B137.5
	Cross-linked polyethylene/aluminum/cross-linked polyethylene (PEX-AL-PEX) pipe	ASTM F1281; ASTM F2262; CSA B137.10
	Cross-linked polyethylene/aluminum/high-density polyethylene (PEX-AL-HDPE)	ASTM F1986
	Ductile iron pipe	AWWA C151/A21.51; AWWA C115/A21.15
	Galvanized steel pipe	ASTM A53
	Polyethylene/aluminum/polyethylene (PE-AL-PE) composite pipe	ASTM F1282
	Polyethylene of raised temperature (PE-RT) plastic tubing	ASTM F2769; CSA B137.158
	Polypropylene (PP) plastic pipe or tubing	ASTM F2389; CSA B137.11
	Stainless steel pipe (Type 304/304L)	ASTM A312; ASTM A778
	Stainless steel pipe (Type 316/316L)	ASTM A312; ASTM A778

While the requirements may be different ,”as applied for,” Materials indicated in Section P2906.5 are approved for such use in accordance with ASME A112.4.1. Polypropylene (PP) plastic tubing, ASTM F2389; CSA B137.11 is one of them.

THE specifics for your area may be metal.

 

[PJB12]

Were it I, I wouldn't amend, or extend that tube, because, after all, how many instances of the TPR valve actually activating, would you anticipate, and what would it's actual activation, actually hurt?

If Zannej prefers to let the T&P discharge tube end in the room (for an easier installation), perhaps put a throw-away pan under the end of the tube and place a water alarm in the pan.

Still, end the tube per code as shown in blue ink at the bottom of an earlier post. Since the heater is electric, you can use a plastic pan to prevent nuisance tripping of the alarm.

All manner of pans & tubs are found at a dollar store. The alarms sometimes appear there too. (If not there, on line or a hardware store)

Paul

 

[zannej]

I just didn't want it discharging water into the air circulation compartment for the AC, which is as far as the tube will take the discharge. I know it needs the 6" air gap, but do wonder if the inside of a bucket would be considered an air gap. I mostly want to get rid of the crap where it reduces to 1/4".

Hope the water heater stays working without problems for a long time. I should make a separate thread about it at some point.

 

[PJB12]

I just didn't want it discharging water into the air circulation compartment for the AC, which is as far as the tube will take the discharge. I know it needs the 6" air gap, but do wonder if the inside of a bucket would be considered an air gap. I mostly want to get rid of the crap where it reduces to 1/4".

Hope the water heater stays working without problems for a long time. I should make a separate thread about it at some point.

If you're referring to the relief valve discharge pipe from the water heater, the air gap is to be less than 6 inches. In other words, within 6" of the floor, ground, floor drain or rim of a pan. But, it has to be at least two pipe diameters above the floor, ground, floor drain or rim of a pan.

Example: 3/4" nominal pipe means the pipe must end between 1-1/2" and 5.999999 inches above the floor, ground or flood rim of a pan or above a floor drain.

Should the pan walls be too high, you can cut a vee-notch in the wall. The bottom of the notch becomes the place from which to measure.

For sure, I'm a fan of the pipe discharging where you will notice if it starts to drip or if it releases a large quantity of water. Drip usually means the water is too hot. (Or a worn valve seat gasket.) Large discharge means the pressure is too high. Discharging outside is OK if your code allows. (Ours does not due to ice clogging potential.) Just be sure it's where you will notice drips. Absolutely it's very bad to have water going in the crawl space- especially if unnoticed.



You mentioned wanting the water heater to last a long time. It's great that you're thinking ahead.
The two most important things that you can do are:
A) Flush sediment about every 6 months. More frequently if you have high mineral content water or notice a rumbling sound when it heats. (More commonly heard with gas heaters than electric)

B) Check the anode rod about once per year. Once the anode is sacrificed and only a wire remains, the tank will very soon develop a rust hole.

I've seen water heaters last over 25 years with regular rod changing and sediment flushing.

The first time you remove the anode rod may be challenging. Use a six-point 1-1/16" socket and a cheater bar to break it free. When you put it back, wrap Teflon tape on the threads, then use PTFE (Teflon) bearing pipe joint compound on the threads. It'll come out much easier next time. If the rod needs changing, hardware stores sell them. They also sell jointed rods in case your ceiling is low.


For your safety, also check the relief valve at least every 6 months when the water is cool (for safety). Pull the lever. Water should come out forcefully. Let the lever snap back. The trickle should stop within a minute or so. (Pipe is draining residual water.)

If a heating element fails or a thermostat fails, I'm confident that you can do the job your self and save a couple of hundred dollars. Both are very easy to do and the parts are quite inexpensive.

Paul

 

[zannej]

Thanks, Paul.
We've had this water heater since 2001 and have never checked the anode rod and never drained it. I expect the anode rod to be completely gone at this point. I need to drain it and I want to put a pan under it (currently there is no pan). I still need to make a new thread (after my nap).

 

[PJB12]

Thanks, Paul.
We've had this water heater since 2001 and have never checked the anode rod and never drained it. I expect the anode rod to be completely gone at this point. I need to drain it and I want to put a pan under it (currently there is no pan). I still need to make a new thread (after my nap).

Since the rod's never been out, it'll be quite tight.
Leaving the tank full & heavy until you break the nut free helps a bit with keeping the tank from rotating while you wrench. Having a helper hug the tank will also help. Having the water still hot might help the nut loosen a little bit.

Ideally, an electric impact gun with a 1-1/16" socket will be the tool of choice. (Never a hammer drill) The tank won't try to rotate because the impacts are a series of short, sideways hits on the socket. I think they are rent-able if no one you know has one. (Auto mechanic or iron worker- if you know any)



When you flush the tank, it might be good to remove the drain valve and install a ball valve with a sort nipple to the tank. You can then shove a tube taped to the end of a wet vacuum's hose in there to draw out all of the sediment.

I stumbled upon this article once. You may find it interesting. https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/how-to-flush-a-water-heater/

Don't forget to test the very important relief valve, too!

Happy Plumbing!
Paul

 

[zannej]

Since the rod's never been out, it'll be quite tight.
Leaving the tank full & heavy until you break the nut free helps a bit with keeping the tank from rotating while you wrench. Having a helper hug the tank will also help. Having the water still hot might help the nut loosen a little bit.

Ideally, an electric impact gun with a 1-1/16" socket will be the tool of choice. (Never a hammer drill) The tank won't try to rotate because the impacts are a series of short, sideways hits on the socket. I think they are rent-able if no one you know has one. (Auto mechanic or iron worker- if you know any)



When you flush the tank, it might be good to remove the drain valve and install a ball valve with a sort nipple to the tank. You can then shove a tube taped to the end of a wet vacuum's hose in there to draw out all of the sediment.

I stumbled upon this article once. You may find it interesting. https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/how-to-flush-a-water-heater/

Don't forget to test the very important relief valve, too!

Happy Plumbing!
Paul

Thanks for the link. I believe I've read that before. I moved my discussion of water heater stuff over to this thread https://www.houserepairtalk.com/thr...iolates-code-other-water-heater-issues.33659/