Framing water damage

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mtmjay

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I have water damaged framing in a shower on all three sides. The wood has rotted through the studs about 16" high. Two of the three sides are exterior walls. One of the walls is load bearing. Can the studs be replaced by adding new studs right next to what is left of the old ones or dose the wall have to be completely torn down and rebuilt?
 
You can add the studs right next to the ones that is rotted, but, take the rotted ones out, once you DO put the new ones in. (If not the rot will spread to the good wood and you will be in the same boat as you are now).

Prime the entire surrounding area, if its got a chance to get wet...Maybe slap some poly on it, a few coats too.

Now, WHY it got wet, is something you should REALLY address! Because if it happens again, it could rot the sill plate, (if it already hasnt, so check that too), and create all kinds of mold in your bathroom and that could be a hazard for the entire family!)...

You "didnt" build the shower, using the outside walls as your shower wall, did you? huh? (I pray that you didnt :))... Or, was this an already build in thing that happened to have the base rotted out from constant useage? That happens for the old tin ones, though they do last many years, the shower pans really werent made for it, but, until they gave out, who would know, right? (Though the rust is a dead give away on that part).

Ok, dont sister or marry them to the others, put them down after checking to make sure there isnt any rot to the sill plate, (take a knife and pry underneath and see if you can get it in there, if you can, its rotted too and has to be taken out)....

Just my take, others will have an opinion, I'm sure...(probaby a better one too!)..

Jesse
 
mtmjay said:
I have water damaged framing in a shower on all three sides. The wood has rotted through the studs about 16" high. Two of the three sides are exterior walls. One of the walls is load bearing. Can the studs be replaced by adding new studs right next to what is left of the old ones or dose the wall have to be completely torn down and rebuilt?

If the rotten wood is dry, then there will be no spreading of rot to the new wood. NEVER poly over wood before framing. If moisture does seep in around a nail or a through a crack, there will be no way for it to ever dry out. Now is the time to concentrate your efforts on keeping it dry. Almost nothing beats a one-piece shower unit, but that is usually not an option in a finished house without tearing out a wall. Do whatever you can to prevent water from getting into the wall space. This is the best defense against water and subsequent rot. Just keep it dry.
 
Wouldn't it be great to see some pictures of these problems?Then folks could get real answers.
I am assuming(bad choice)that the previous wall was tiled?
If so tear out as much of the old stuff you need to, then start to rebuild right alongside the areas affected.Install some concrete board where the new fiberglass 3 piece unit will go and hook up all new fixtures at this point because you may have had leaks which contributed to the problem.Do some mud'in and paint.....done.Then also make sure you have some fan ventilation in the room to get rid of moisture.Make sure this vents to the Exterior ,not the attic, all the way outside.:)

Make some plans with someone to use their shower(if you don't have another)as this may be some hard work and you may need one.:D
 
One quick cure that no one has mentioned is once the repairs are completed (whichever route you decide to take), is CAULK CAULK AND THEN CAULK some more. This is extremely important in keeping water from getting behind the shower walls and fixtures.
 
As stated previously, check the sill plate for damage. Sequence for repair:
1. Replace rotted sill.
2. Cut out damaged wood and fill in with new wood. Do not take out whole stud. Support wall as needed
3. Sister new stud next to it.
4. Figure out why it happened and don't make the same mistake.

Ron
 
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