Garage apartment reno

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Summer

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I hope someone can help me and this is not too lengthy. I have a home with a detached garage that was converted to a guest house by a previous owner. It is a great space but needs to be renovated. I have gutted the building back to the studs and had a new roof installed. The plumbing is in good shape and the wiring will be redone. My main concern is moisture. Prior to the demo, the room smelled musty. The building is framed with 2x4's and has a brick veneer ext. The exterior sheething is made of 2x6 boards laid diagonally. The bottom few inches in several areas has rotted away. It appears that there is tar paper on the outside of the sheathing (inside the brick) but it seems to have deteriorated in areas that I can see (knot holes and a few gaps between the boards. How do I prevent moisture, drafts, etc. from entering prior to installing insulation and Sheetrock. I live in Louisiana and moisture is a big concern.
 
If it has brick exterior, and the bottom has rotten away..your weepholes in the brick are missing at the bottom courses, and you need to get the papaer back on.
This is a hard fix labor wise, but if you understand it, you can DIY.
Brick Veneer Leaks - Flashings

Or Leaky Basement

These articles are a start.
 
Are you turning it into a rent property? I lived in a Garage apartment in college and loved it.
 
I appreciate the response. I think the rotten sheathing is a result of groundwater. The landscaping around this area of the building was actually even with the interior floor level. Rain runoff would pool along this wall of the building. There may have been some leakage from a roof leak as well. The drainage has bee fixed with drainage pipe and gutters to divert runoff. It appears to stay dry now. Is there any type of moisture barrier I can install on the interior of the sheething (between the studs) that would perform the same job as the tar paper was. The only way I can see to replace the tar paper is to remove all the brick which would be cost prohibitive.
 
One way to get it sealed is to attach a rain screen( kind of like a 1 inch thick scotchbright pad) and paper to the back of it. you will be working from the inside after you remove the sheathing about 16 inches up.
like I said, this is labor intensive and you need to pay attention to detail...like where does the water go.
Bottom line is, you need the weepholes, the brick needs to dry out from behind.

I would stop at the local brick supply house and see what they sell for flashing modifications, new products come out all the time.

This is not an easy fix, however it is possible.
 
I'd check with your local B.D. as they know what is best and acceptable for your specific location. You would probably need a permit for the wiring, too. Then your Homeowners Insurance could not refuse a future claim on the 2-family residence.

Be safe, Gary
 
There are no weep holes but this could be remedied. Because I have no access to the outside of the sheathing, my thought was to do the best I can from inside. I was considering running 1/2 inch furing strips vertically in each stud cavity then attaching a foamboard product to these strips. I think any product in direct contact with the inside of the sheathing is going to be a place that traps moistue. This method would allow a small space just outside of the foamboard which will act as the vapor barrier. The rest of the stud cavity will be filled with fiberglass prior to Sheetrock. I'll hire liscenced subs for electrical, A/C, etc... I do not plan to rent this apt. But to use it for guests, hang out for our teenage kids, aging parent, etc. Any thoughts?
 
Has anyone done this type of renovation before where you can't build it exactly as you should but need to improvise?
 
Well, one option is to cut the decayed wood out and replace it with a 4x4 pt. This would raise the sections off the floor. You need to adress the moisture and install a weather barrier as best you can. The diagrams I sent you to will help.
"Be the water", and don't tuck your raincoat into your pants.:D
 
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