Garage door opens only half way

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Silver

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My older garage door is a metal "tilt up" supported by a "screw drive" Lift-Master/Chamberlain model "1030 S." I have fiddled with everything (WD40, the force-adjustment screws, etc.) but it still only goes up half way. It was working for ages. Was thinking to regrease the screw drive as my final option before replacing the motor. I would appreciate your advise. Thank you.
 

Snoonyb

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And then does it reverse and close?

If you disconnect the operator and manually lift the door, it should rest at your chest level and if it does not, and falls or closes, the springs need to be replaced.
 

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Snoonyb, Thank you for your sound instructions. I'll give it a shot. I appreciate it!
 

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Just wanted to add as I will be traveling to repair the door this weekend. I remember the springs being with zero tension with the door closed. I would think this is when the springs should have maximum tension, to assist the motor in pulling up the heavy door. Does this concur with your advice that the springs need replacing? Thank you again for your help.
 

Snoonyb

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With the style of door, and hwrd., you are working with, the hwrd. creates the fulcrum so the max tension is with the door closed and the springs extended.

If I'm reading this correctly, this is the style of hwrd. you have; holmes garage door hinges
 

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From what I remember, there is only one spring on each side. I've pulled an online photo that looks like what I remember it looking like. Thank you again.

tilt-up-garage-door-hardware-tilt-a-door-hinge-and-spring-holmes-tilt-up-garage-door-hardware.jpg
 

Snoonyb

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Thanks. That's the product.

They will double the springs for heavier doors.
 

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Hello Snoonyb,

I shortened the connections to the springs on both sides of the door to make the springs taught and the door fully opened! Yea!

Unfortunately, the joy was short-lived as we noticed it would sometimes still stall half-way as previously. Further inspection revealed that the door springs are not the same model number / strength. I "tightened" the less-taught spring but this seemed to make the door even more unreliable. The motor would stop rather than continuing to push which allowed being able to walk to the door to push it open instead of having to start the motor again which would reverse the direction and return the door to the closed position. So I fear we're worse off that when we started.

Please tell me how to determine the strenght / part-number of the spring. Being that they are different, obviously one should be replaced, but maybe both? And should I consider moving the hinge bolts to lengthen the lever-arms? Any other suggestions?

Thank you very much again for your help!
 
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Snoonyb

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Both springs should be the same # and length, and I suspect #7's X 30".
 

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