GE Refrigerator, Freezer not cold enough

Discussion in 'General Appliance Discussion' started by JDDUNC, Jun 15, 2012.

  1. Jun 15, 2012 #1

    JDDUNC

    JDDUNC

    JDDUNC

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    I have a GE side by side, Model GSL25JFTABS that is having cooling issues with the freezer. Will not go below 30 degrees. I have replaced the two thermistors in the freezer section, temp sensor & defrost, first, but saw no change. I just replaced the main control board hoping it would solve my problems, but I’m still seeing no change. Also, I don’t have any ice buildup on the evaporator coils, but only the bottom of the coils gets frosty. Any ideas?
     
  2. Jun 16, 2012 #2

    jeff1

    jeff1

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    Hi,

    That would indicate a major system problem....leaker, restriction, inefficient compressor or any combination of these = BIG$

    LINK: http://www.applianceaid.com/refrigerator-not-cold-enough.php

    jeff.
     
  3. Sep 9, 2012 #3

    dil

    dil

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    I have a ge monogram refrigerator. My problem is that the freezer didn't cool well, so I cleaned in the back of the compressor. Now the temperature starting to drop, it's was 22 and now it's 12. But the compressor is very hot, the fan works, and there was little water going down from the top of the refrigerator to the bottom . Any idea what should I do? Is it normal for the compressor to be hot? Even the cover door is very hot.
    Help please
     
  4. Sep 9, 2012 #4

    jeff1

    jeff1

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    Hi,

    Model#?

    When running the compressor wil be very warm to the touch yes. If/when running all of the time the compressor can certainly get warmer than normal and be hot. *If* things are ok and the temp gets better, the compressor should cool once it starts to cycle on and off.

    You cleaned the condensor coils as well?...hope so.

    jeff.
     
  5. Sep 9, 2012 #5

    dil

    dil

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    Ok, so now the temperature in the freezer is 9 and the refrigerator is 30. The compressor isn't hot anymore, it's warm and I can touch it. the cieling of refrigerator
     
  6. Sep 9, 2012 #6

    dil

    dil

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    The ceiling of the refrigerator have drops of water, looks like its sweating. Is this normal? And yes I cleaned the condenser coils very good, I took pictures with my phone. Thank you for your answers. Really help
     
  7. Sep 10, 2012 #7

    jeff1

    jeff1

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    ??

    Should be 0ºF in the freezer and 40ºF in the fresh food section.

    Nope, definetly not normal.
    Give the refrigerator an 24 hour defrost with the doors open.

    jeff.
     
  8. Sep 10, 2012 #8

    dil

    dil

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    Hi, my model # ziss480nmcs, the freezer this morning was 6 and refrigerator 30. there is water coming out like once a day from the top right corner of the fridge, what can he be ?
     
  9. Sep 11, 2012 #9

    jeff1

    jeff1

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    I found mullion condensation kits for sweating, I found an iceing kit to prevent ice from building up and leaking.....might want to get a GE tech in to check to see what ( if any ) may be helpfull to yours...

    [​IMG]
    Icing kit with insulation Manufacturer Number WR49X10021

    jeff.
     
  10. Sep 11, 2012 #10

    dil

    dil

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    The freezer now is 16 and the fridge 40. The compressor is hot again. I will call GE for service.
     
  11. Sep 11, 2012 #11

    jeff1

    jeff1

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    If you get a chance, let us know what they have to say/find.

    jeff.
     
  12. Jul 5, 2013 #12

    vsrmhmbs

    vsrmhmbs

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    hi i have a ge monogram side by side fridge freezer and the freezer isnt stayin cold enough
     
  13. Jul 6, 2013 #13

    jeff1

    jeff1

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    Hi,

    Should have started your own thread.
    Model#?
    Both sections are not cooling?
    Fans working, condenser coils been cleaned, any strange noises ( like clicking )?

    jeff.
     
  14. Jul 6, 2013 #14

    woodchuck

    woodchuck

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    Is the evaporator fan in the freezer running. It blows cold air into the fridge side through a damper in the wall between the freezer and fridge. Make sure the damper is open.

    Below the evaporator fan is the evaporator coils. Remove the back cover in the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL) or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR PROBLEM). If it's totally blocked with ice.(defrost problem)
    DEFROST PROBLEM
    The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

    If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

    If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
    With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
    You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

    The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

    If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

    If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
     
  15. Aug 24, 2013 #15

    PoolDude

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    Ge gsl25jfta bs model unit.... The guests (500 miles away) say it is not working...runs for a few minutes then cuts off. Is it for sure a compressor problem or something else maybe?
     
  16. Aug 24, 2013 #16

    jeff1

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    Hi,

    Depends on what they mean "cuts off"!

    If the whole refrigerator stops working ( fans, compressor, etc ) then no....if the fans still work and just the compressor will run a minute or two, then yes the issue could be the compressor. Has the condensor coils been cleaned recently...at all?
    http://www.applianceaid.com/cleaning-condenser.php

    jeff.
     

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