Getting rid of air intake

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5thpigg

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I have a 1973 Hallcraft home on a 2167 square foot home in Phoenix Arizona. The original duct works consisted of 3 air intakes throughout the house, two of which are within 10 feet of each other on one side of the house and the third on the far side of the house in the hallway. These intakes are at floor level, are about 8 inches in diameter and drop into the concrete slab. The duct work ran to a closet in between the two air intakes closest together that used to house a heater for the house. Over the years, as heat pumps became more popular, they did away with the heater in the closet and ran a duct bypass up through the attic where they put a heat pump on the roof.
I am trying to expand and update my bathroom and one of those air intakes is directly in my way. My question is this: Can I get rid of that air intake and will the heat pump still work efficiently if I do?
 
I have a 1973 Hallcraft home on a 2167 square foot home in Phoenix Arizona. The original duct works consisted of 3 air intakes throughout the house, two of which are within 10 feet of each other on one side of the house and the third on the far side of the house in the hallway. These intakes are at floor level, are about 8 inches in diameter and drop into the concrete slab. The duct work ran to a closet in between the two air intakes closest together that used to house a heater for the house. Over the years, as heat pumps became more popular, they did away with the heater in the closet and ran a duct bypass up through the attic where they put a heat pump on the roof.
I am trying to expand and update my bathroom and one of those air intakes is directly in my way. My question is this: Can I get rid of that air intake and will the heat pump still work efficiently if I do?

This is a engineering question. You have a air handler with air so you have to move enough air so your air will not freeze up. I would have to know the air handler size. all the duck sizing.
You said you have three 8' round on the return air, that can move about 540 CFM of air. If this is what you have than i am surprised your unit works at all Paul
 
1. do you have a split system or package unit on the rooftop (im thinking you referred to a rooftop (packaged) unit. what size unit do you currently have (thinking 5 tonish)

2. Any chance of building in a soffit in the bathroom or using flex to move the return line.

3. is the 'in the way duct' the main trunk (from the orginal 2)you spoke of or the third.

There may be another place to tap a return in the home as well. It could also make the unit work better and that would definately require some experienced eyes to look over and do some calculations..

Last idea and its a wild one. If you are going to replace the unit at some time in the future and going with a split system. Air handler in the closet and condenser outdoors. Reason I say this is I have returns in my concrete floors and LOVE them. I have 3200 sq ft and run two 3 ton units with 30 ft ceilings. The concrete acts like a precooler for the air and I get a 10 degree drop at the return just from the air going underground.

good luck
 

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