Hardwood to carpet transition

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maxdad118

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So I have a pretty bad transition to my carpet and no stores have a deep enough step to transition nicely. Am I going to pay a fortune to have this custom made or does anyone have a good idea?

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I had a transition issue between the kitchen & living room. Mine was hardwood to tile, but the same fix would work. I made my own threshold on the table saw, and shaped the top with a belt sander & orbital sander. I left a pretty good sized gap between the two floor coverings so the heel of the threshold had a wide base to hold it solid. I cut a rabbit joint in each edge corresponding to the thickness of each floor covering. Then cut the top of the threshold at an angle to complete the transition (cross section in the photo is a rough guess of the profile). I then used a belt sander to round over the top edges to make it as low profile as possible, but still leaving enough material over the rabbits as to not weaken the threshold. The trick is to be as precise with your rabbit cuts as possible so the trim piece sets tight on both the floor covering and the floor. This one has been in place for a good 15 years or so. My concern was to not make it any taller than necessary for trip hazard reasons. To date that has never been an issue.

You might even want to pull the carpet back and build a ramp up to the wood floor. Maybe use leveling cement to transition from the ramp to the floor to make a seamless transition for the carpet. Then lay the carpet back down & install a standard threshold.

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I had a transition issue between the kitchen & living room. Mine was hardwood to tile, but the same fix would work. I made my own threshold on the table saw, and shaped the top with a belt sander & orbital sander. I left a pretty good sized gap between the two floor coverings so the heel of the threshold had a wide base to hold it solid. I cut a rabbit joint in each edge corresponding to the thickness of each floor covering. Then cut the top of the threshold at an angle to complete the transition (cross section in the photo is a rough guess of the profile). I then used a belt sander to round over the top edges to make it as low profile as possible, but still leaving enough material over the rabbits as to not weaken the threshold. The trick is to be as precise with your rabbit cuts as possible so the trim piece sets tight on both the floor covering and the floor. This one has been in place for a good 15 years or so. My concern was to not make it any taller than necessary for trip hazard reasons. To date that has never been an issue.

You might even want to pull the carpet back and build a ramp up to the wood floor. Maybe use leveling cement to transition from the ramp to the floor to make a seamless transition for the carpet. Then lay the carpet back down & install a standard threshold.

That's awesome! Exactly what I was wondering, only problem is I have no wood working tools, not even a table saw😖. That's the idea I was looking for.
 
If you can specify exactly what you need, you could hire (or talk someone into) cutting it for you. Then you could install it. Or you can continue looking. Some company probably makes exactly what you need.
 
Then you are correct, finding that, in those dimensions, will not be likely, and need to be milled.

In following Gary's method you'll need to account for a tack strip. Your existing can be pulled, the nails removed, the leveling material used to create the slope drilled and either longer nails or screws used to reattach.

However, if this is a high traffic area, because the carpet weave is higher than the wood floor, without using a tuck-under tack strip, you risk the carpet pulling away from the hardwood.
 
Don’t laugh I have used roof shingles to taper out the underlayment for carpet.

The transition between my kitchen laminate and the hardwood in the living room was 1” I made a threshold from 1x6 white oak with a slight taper across the 6” width.

Lots of good ideas here.
 
So planning ahead id always a good idea.
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQhk-kgDcvU[/ame]
 
So planning ahead id always a good idea.

Only thing I would do different is run it past the door and round the nose around so you couldn’t notice the step.
 
Only thing I would do different is run it past the door and round the nose around so you couldn’t notice the step.

I have done it with ceder shingles, but it does mess with the floor molding as you get away from that area.
I would have put one board across the ends of the floor boards. I have seen tapered transition, but the floor has to be left short for it to go in.
 
I was unable to find a board 1" thick x 4" at Home Depot...what is everybody's thought on laminating and screwing 2 pieces together to get the desired thickness?

Any local REAL lumber yard will have what you need, or for that matter any cabinet shop will have the material and be able to mill it for you.

When you see "5/4x4 & 4/4" referred too, they are speaking of material which is 5 quarters and 4 quarters material, which translates into 1-1/4" and 1" thick material, which must still be milled.
 
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