Heating My Attic

Discussion in 'HVAC' started by cibula11, Jan 30, 2007.

  1. Jan 30, 2007 #1

    cibula11

    cibula11

    cibula11

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    I am thinking about and planning ahead as to how I will heat my finished attic space. I have already had some heating and cooling guys come in and explain that based on my setup there is not a really good way to run ductwork to my attic. With that said, are there any safe options. The space is about 250 sq ft. It really is only a few degrees cooler than the main level, and I have added new insulation to the attic. I didn't want to use space heaters for safety reasons. Any other affordable options?
     
  2. Jan 30, 2007 #2

    Kerrylib

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    have you considered baseboard heaters?
    Run them on their own thermostat in the attic space.
     
  3. Jan 30, 2007 #3

    cibula11

    cibula11

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    I have considered them. Are they difficult to install? I had some electric work done a few months back. There are two outlets for each of the two rooms in the attic space. Suggestions??
     
  4. Jan 30, 2007 #4

    glennjanie

    glennjanie

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    Hello Cibula:
    Baseboard heaters run on 220v so, you would need another line up there. The heaters come in different lengths and the amperage depends on the length. The wire size depends on the amperage drawn by the heater.
    Rural Electric Co-ops have said it is the most economical way to heat; when you are not using the room you can turn it off. Using a thermostat on it will cause it to cycle on or off as needed. It is probably the most economical to install too; black to black, red to red, white to white and bare ground to a green headed screw.
    Glenn
     
  5. Jan 31, 2007 #5

    cibula11

    cibula11

    cibula11

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    Two questions:
    1. What would a ballpark cost be for having a baseboard heater installed.
    2. Has anyone heard anything about the portable baseboard heaters? I found a few that heat up to 150 sq ft. ( I would need 2) , they plug into a regular 120v outlet. Here is the website I saw on the portable heaters. http://air-n-water.stores.yahoo.net/baheelbahepo.html
     
  6. Feb 1, 2007 #6

    glennjanie

    glennjanie

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    I can't give you a price to have it installed but I can tell you the portable ones are "rinky-dink"; I wouldn't recommend them. You should not run more than one portable on a circut.
    Glenn
     
  7. Feb 1, 2007 #7

    cibula11

    cibula11

    cibula11

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    Let me know if this sounds right. I was thinking of running 10/3 wire from my panel to my attic where the baseboard heaters would be installed. I was told to first run it to a switch where my thermastat would be placed, then from there to my heater. I was thinking of leaving all the connections for the electrician but save myself some money by doing the labor part. I would use a 2 pole 30 amp breaker as the heater will run at 1500 watt. Sound good?? Any other twists as to how I would install two different heaters in the space on one thermastat?
     
  8. Feb 6, 2007 #8

    cibula11

    cibula11

    cibula11

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    Upon further inspection it looks as if I could add a supply line from my furnace to the attic. I probably could add just one. Based on cost and effectiveness which would be cheaper: ductwork or electric baseboard? I may not have enough room on my panel to add another circuit which would mean adding more tandems.
     
  9. Feb 6, 2007 #9

    glennjanie

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    Hello Cibula:
    I would favor the duct run for several reasons:
    1. It would be economical to install and use
    2. It would also give you air conditioning (if you have central air)
    3. It would circulate the air throughout the main level and the attic
    4. You can reserve the electrical panel for other additions later.

    You could run the duct in round, sheet metal pipe or use wall stack between the studs. One run would be sufficient and the return air would work as long as the door is open or make sure you end up with an inch or more space under the door. I think you are really on to something. We would like to see pictures of your progress.
    Glenn
     
  10. Feb 7, 2007 #10

    cibula11

    cibula11

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    Thanks Glen. I am going to contact an HVAC guy and see what we can conclude. I may decide however to do the job myself. The place that I am considering using for the supply would put the vent in the middle of the room. While, one is better than none, do you think it would be NECESSARY to add two. If I add two, I would probably have to use a "T" or "Y" to split the supply. One would go to one side and the other giving air to the other side of the room. But splitting the supply would cut down on air flow so it may not really do much. If I put two supply, I most likely would not have room for a return. Is there one that you would prefer. (1 supply, 1 return; 2 supplies, no returns). The space is about 250 sq. ft and is open to the main level. (no door)
     
  11. Feb 8, 2007 #11

    glennjanie

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    Hey Cibula:
    You had said the temperature in the attic is not much different than the main level. That being said, one run and a register in the middle of the floor should be sufficient. A 6" metal pipe duct will carry 100 cfm which should do a bang-up job for you. No need for a return.
    Glenn
     
  12. Feb 8, 2007 #12

    cibula11

    cibula11

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    Thanks. I am having someone come out today and tell me what it would cost him. Any ideas on a reasonable figure? The furnace is pretty much directly below the attic area, so it would be pretty much a straight shot from the furnace. I will probably have the holes in the floor cut to cut down on labor. Just wondering if it is something that I could tackle on my own or not??
     
  13. Feb 8, 2007 #13

    glennjanie

    glennjanie

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    Yes, you could do it yourself. With the right material and some basic tools, you could whiz right through it.
    Glenn
     
  14. Feb 8, 2007 #14

    cibula11

    cibula11

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    I don't have a lot of room on my furnace to attach the supply ductwork to. I was wondering if I could start with a flexible duct to start and then run the metal ductwork to the area. Do I need to know anything specific when attaching the duct to the furnace? Or is it pretty much cut a hole and attach?
     
  15. Feb 8, 2007 #15

    glennjanie

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    Yes you could start off with flex-pipe; it should be limited to 3'. OR you could start with 2 or 3 adjustable ells; they will make any angle for you from straight, to 90 degrees. I really prefer the adjustable ells.
    To attach the duct to the furnace plenum (the sheet metal box, usually on top of the furnace) you cut a precise 6"round hole and insert an "A-collar" then pipe or fittings can be attached to the a-collar. Turn upward with an ell and terminate with a 6" 4 x 10 universal boot in the attic floor. Lay a 4 X 10 floor register in the boot and you're done.
    Caution: Working with sheet metal presents a lot of sharp edges, when you get cut on it the zinc (galvanizing) gets into the skin and causes a burning sensation, wear lether gloves.
    Glenn
     
  16. Feb 8, 2007 #16

    cibula11

    cibula11

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    Do I need to shut the furnace off first?
     
  17. Feb 9, 2007 #17

    glennjanie

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    Sorry, I often miss the first step in instalations. Yes, it should be turned off while you are connecting to the furnace. It is possible to start in the attic and work down so the furnace will be off for a mimimum time.
    Glenn
     

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