Help removing metal shower drain

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Iedwards23

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Midwest city oklahoma
My house was built in 1960s and I removed the concrete shower pan. On top of the metal shower pan is this metal threaded connector. Can i just cut this pipe flush to floor or do I need to remove the threaded connector somehow.20200405_152412.jpg20200405_152413.jpg20200405_152340.jpg
 
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That depends upon what your plans are for the space, as in are you going to remove the slab, evidenced in the 3rd photo.

You can fill us in, we won't tell.
 
So I removed the concrete from the shower. In the third picture it shows some metal sheet that was under the concrete shower pan. They attached the drain on top of that metal sheet. I'm putting in a normal shower based but need to know the correct way to remove it.
 
What is your plan for the area? Is it going to be a new shower? Will you be using that drain again? What will the new shower pan be?



Welcome to the forum.
 
The very last thing I would do is cut any pipes off as the new setup will have to be adapted to connect to what you have once you get the rest of that pan removed. Then you can see what you have there to work with.
 
Is the new shower pan preformed, as in fiberglass, or is it going be assembled of ceramic tile?
 
In photo #3, I see the edge of a concrete slab.

Will that slab and the old metal shower base be removed, or do you intend to set the new base on the slab, just removing the old metal shower base?

Does the existing drain spud align with the drain in the new shower pan?
 
In photo #3, I see the edge of a concrete slab.

Will that slab and the old metal shower base be removed, or do you intend to set the new base on the slab, just removing the old metal shower base?

Does the existing drain spud align with the drain in the new shower pan?

I intended to remove metal shower pan and that drain connection. Then put the shower base on the slab. I believe those pre fab shower bases needs the drain to be flush with the slab (or whatever base you use). I can remove the metal shower base material without disturbing the drain connection, the metal is very soft. Would it be better to cut right below the screen then use mortar or something to basically create another base and put the pre fad shower base on that.
 
Thanks.
It looks like you'll need to also remove the nut so that you'll have a flat surface, and with the nut removed the metal base should lift off.

Does the new shower pan have the drain flange already installed or is that an after set install.

Whether it's an after set, or not, you'll need to make sure that the galv. drain nipple is clean, and the new fits, so that you get a good seal.

If this all works out, be sure and caulk around the drain hole in the pan and the slab, before you set the drain.
 
Thanks.
It looks like you'll need to also remove the nut so that you'll have a flat surface, and with the nut removed the metal base should lift off.

Does the new shower pan have the drain flange already installed or is that an after set install.

Whether it's an after set, or not, you'll need to make sure that the galv. drain nipple is clean, and the new fits, so that you get a good seal.

If this all works out, be sure and caulk around the drain hole in the pan and the slab, before you set the drain.

I tried to remove that nut but its really stuck. Need to try to work on it a bit more. But is the only way to remove the strainer portion is to cut it out. Don't see a way to screw it off.
 
Use a wire brush to clean the shreds and apply some WD40 or PB Blaster.

Depending upon the height or depth, you'll probably need to cut the drain spud off at some where in its length.
 
Use a wire brush to clean the shreds and apply some WD40 or PB Blaster.

Depending upon the height or depth, you'll probably need to cut the drain spud off at some where in its length.

This is the base I'm using. Looking at the install instructions it appear the drain pipe needs to be a couple inches above the slab. Also should I be able to use a PVC threaded connector to attach to the drain spud. Then connect drain to that. Connector similar to the one in the picture.
 

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That adapter won't work because it is a no hub fitting and will not thred on to the drain spud. To use it you would need to remove the galv.
nipple and install a threaded adapter with a short length of 2" PVC, then the adapter.

Most shower drains fit inside a 2"PVC or ABS and have a washer seal.
 
If you are going to try to remove the galv. nipple you may need a large pipe wrench and possibly a length of pipe.
 
I removed that metal sheet but could not remove that bottom nut. looking at that the picture, the nut portion may be a half inch from the slab. The nut is really low profile and I can get a wrench to really fit on the nut. Could I cut the pipe right below the drain screen at the line shown in the other picture and fit the 2" PVC adapter you talked about earlier or is there not enough room. Also if you look at the picture the is another place under the nut but not sure what that is.
 

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It looks to me like your shower was built with a lead lined shower pan liner. i would remove the shower drain and lead liner and replace with a schluter shower pan. you might need help making a connection to the drain pipe . But it is worth it , because once it is done it will be good for your life time.
 
The screen actually threds on to the galv. nipple, so should be able to be removed, which can be done as 1 piece or cut in pieces.

The nut isn't that important, but removing the galv. nipple is, because no part of the new drain can be attached and a seal attained.

I've a list of fittings for you which will ensure a seal;
2 in. PVC DWV Hub x MIPT Male Adapter
2 in. x 10 ft. PVC Schedule 40 Conduit

The male adapter will thred into the trap hub and you adjust the length of the PVC so the pan drain fits inside.
 
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