Here we pop again - Popping Floor

Discussion in 'Flooring' started by Joshman, Apr 8, 2015.

  1. Apr 8, 2015 #1

    Joshman

    Joshman

    Joshman

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    Greetings,

    I have a 2 story house that has had a popping floor all over the place. I am thinking of turning the basement into a suite but I can see that after a few months of the popping noise from above, the tenants will... well, they wont be happy.

    The subfloor is the simple plywood on the trusses and nailed in. The basement ceiling is unfinished (and I am putting in a drop ceiling, not insulation with drywall).

    I know the majority of you are thinking that this is a nail rubbing issue and it very well could be; however, here is the kicker: The last time we got new carpets, I spent a good 30 hours screwing the plywood down beside all of the nails and at the same time, removed the old nails that were removable. This fixed it for about 6 months but after a cold snap and the warmth of spring, it started up and is just as bad as before.

    What are your thoughts on hammering in shim between the tresses and the sub-floor (from the basement) and filling in the slightly raised crack with construction adhesive, then trimming the shims... kind of like this....: http://www.monkeysee.com/play/19867-fixing-floor-squeaks-from-the-underside ?

    I am open to many ideas without having to remove the carpet or sub-floor.

    Thoughts? :)
     
  2. Apr 8, 2015 #2

    nealtw

    nealtw

    nealtw

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    Shimming the floor works well in videos, not so good in real life and welcome to the site.
    First the cause of the problem. When you glue the floor down, you squeeze a line of glue with a caulking gun but you kind of stay away from the area where the t&g fit to get because the glue will stop it from fitting together. The problem starts if you have left the glue drying to long so when the board goes down it dosn't squish out and allow the sheet to lay flat.
    My fix. is pre-drill 2x2 strips in two driection and with the same floor glue and large caulking gun, glue and screw it the floor sheeting and to the joist.
    Pick a bad spot and do a teast with out glue first to see if there is an improvement.
     
  3. Apr 8, 2015 #3

    Joshman

    Joshman

    Joshman

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    Interesting! Thanks for the reply! When you say two directions, you mean to secure it to the floor sheeting (angled screw) and then the joist (straight screw through)?

    Something like this?
    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    Or perhaps you mean to have one straight on through to the joist and one straight on through the bottom of the 2 x 2 to the subfloor?

    Does it matter which goes first?
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2015
  4. Apr 8, 2015 #4

    nealtw

    nealtw

    nealtw

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    Or perhaps you mean to have one straight on through to the joist and one straight on through the bottom of the 2 x 2 to the subfloor?
    Angle screws work great for holding things from moving but will not pull things tight and you want to pull things into place.
    BTW insulate between joists even when using a drop ceiling
     
  5. Apr 9, 2015 #5

    Joshman

    Joshman

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    That's great! 2 Questions for you:
    1. Do I mount to the joist first, then pull the subfloor panel down with the screws going up or the other way around?
    2. Which product would you suggest I use for an insulation? My money is not unlimited so a few options with rank would help me out greatly!
    Thanks for your help!
     
  6. Apr 9, 2015 #6

    nealtw

    nealtw

    nealtw

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    Screw to the sheeting first with limited reach into the plywood it will not pull down.
    fibreglass is as good as safe and sound, so look for a bargain.
     

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