Hole in attic

[danpark]

Hi everyone, I was up in my attic and noticed a gap in the insulation. It appears to be just above the main vertical HVAC run, and I can see down to the basement from there (2 floors).

It's that supposed to be there by any chance? We're in a split level if it makes any difference.

I also see a wire running through there, which I think is a new smoke detector that was installed last year. Wondering if the contractor put a hole there and didn't close it back up?
Thanks!

 

[Snoonyb]

Welcome.
It could be what is termed as a "chase," however, usually they are fire rated, so if to can see the sides and they are drywalled, they may be rated. If you can see wood framing members, it's likely not rated.

 

[Steve123]

I have no idea what you got there, but doubt it is proper.
Galvanized steel HVAC ducting with electrical wires inside ?
Where does other end of that duct go ?

Pretty sure fire stops would be required between attic and lower levels.
And you don't want warm, moist household air going into attic in winter - risk it hits cold roof sheathing, condenses and leads to mold.
At the very least I would seal it up with 3/4" plywood and caulk.
A sparky would have to address if it is code compliant to run electrical wires in HVAC ducting.

 

[PJB12]

Is it an older house, DanPark?
Many older homes were built with what is called Balloon Framing. The studs go from basement to attic in one piece with no fire stopping between floors. (Makes fishing wires quite easy.. My 1890's house has some studs over 24 feet long.)

Balloon framing is no longer used because the vertical space provided a fire with its own chimney, increasing velocity and intensity of the flames.

Wires in ducts-
If you look up NFPA 300.22 on line, you will find all the rules about wiring in duct work. Next to it is OK as long as there are no sharp edges.

Closing Hole-
What Steve123 said about caulk & plywood is more than sufficient to stop moisture and air & is a very good idea.
But, to stop fire below from using the chase like a chimney, I'd consider 5/8-X drywall adhered with fire stop caulk or putty.

Just my suggestions,
Paul

 

[danpark]

Welcome.
It could be what is termed as a "chase," however, usually they are fire rated, so if to can see the sides and they are drywalled, they may be rated. If you can see wood framing members, it's likely not rated.

Thank you! I do see mostly wood framing. This was helpful info, thanks!

 

[danpark]

Is it an older house, DanPark?
Many older homes were built with what is called Balloon Framing. The studs go from basement to attic in one piece with no fire stopping between floors. (Makes fishing wires quite easy.. My 1890's house has some studs over 24 feet long.)

Balloon framing is no longer used because the vertical space provided a fire with its own chimney, increasing velocity and intensity of the flames.

Wires in ducts-
If you look up NFPA 300.22 on line, you will find all the rules about wiring in duct work. Next to it is OK as long as there are no sharp edges.

Closing Hole-
What Steve123 said about caulk & plywood is more than sufficient to stop moisture and air & is a very good idea.
But, to stop fire below from using the chase like a chimney, I'd consider 5/8-X drywall adhered with fire stop caulk or putty.

Just my suggestions,
Paul

This is very helpful, thank you! Yes it's a slightly older house (1950-1960s). Indeed some of those studs seem to go two floors up to the attic, and was part of why I was so perplexed by the space. I now realized that I can see the attic roof from my basement through this chase, and it's probably solved the mystery of how I got some larger bugs in my basement.

 

[danpark]

I have no idea what you got there, but doubt it is proper.
Galvanized steel HVAC ducting with electrical wires inside ?
Where does other end of that duct go ?

Pretty sure fire stops would be required between attic and lower levels.
And you don't want warm, moist household air going into attic in winter - risk it hits cold roof sheathing, condenses and leads to mold.
At the very least I would seal it up with 3/4" plywood and caulk.
A sparky would have to address if it is code compliant to run electrical wires in HVAC ducting.

Thank you! Sorry I wasn't clearer, the wire runs next to the HVAC.
Good point on closing it up. There is indeed some mold just above that section, and treating it has helped a lot. Now just need to seal it up to prevent it from happening again

 

[Fireguy5674]

I did a project for my daughter in the Chicago suburbs. I had a plumbing chase similar to the HVAC chase you have. The inspector told me to use 12" of fiberglass insulation stuffed in the space to create a fire block between floors. Make sure you remove any paper backer from the insulation