How do I wire these switches?

[nealtw]

Thanks, guys. I got everything wired up

My last question is, aren't these outlets UL approved? If they are, then why the distaste for the backstab vs. screw connections? Aren't they all tested to the same level of dependability?

I think it is just the number of times they are the problem when something stops working. They are tested for safety not durability.

 

[afjes_2016]

Thanks, guys. I got everything wired up

My last question is, aren't these outlets UL approved? If they are, then why the distaste for the backstab vs. screw connections? Aren't they all tested to the same level of dependability?

"UL" = equals minimum safety standards to be met (by them, the laboratory). Just like NEC (by NFPA). We here give you our suggestions from "field" experience. This is why I "liked" nealtw's reply.

Yes, back stabbing is approved. However, by field experienced persons such as myself (no, I am by far not an expert!!!!!) find many times that back stabbing receptacles or switches serve to be an issue in the future. The pressure applied to any electrical connection is the secret to keeping that connection "safe!!". "Loose wires start fires" is what my instructor always preached. It is true too. Many times loose wires will arc and cause heat, failure and or fire in time. When you put a wire in the back-stab location/slot and then push the light switch, receptacle etc back into the box wire tend to move, bend etc. The pressure applied to the piece of metal that holds the wire/conductor in place in a back stab is not sufficient over time to hold a tight connection. It may not fail at that moment but over time may start to slip out of the connection and cause a failure such as no connection or worse, an arcing. It is highly recommended that all conductors be placed under a screw (only one wire per screw) and tightened sufficiently with a proper sized screwdriver.

 

[Eisenfaust8]

"UL" = equals minimum safety standards to be met (by them, the laboratory). Just like NEC (by NFPA). We here give you our suggestions from "field" experience. This is why I "liked" nealtw's reply.

Yes, back stabbing is approved. However, by field experienced persons such as myself (no, I am by far not an expert!!!!!) find many times that back stabbing receptacles or switches serve to be an issue in the future. The pressure applied to any electrical connection is the secret to keeping that connection "safe!!". "Loose wires start fires" is what my instructor always preached. It is true too. Many times loose wires will arc and cause heat, failure and or fire in time. When you put a wire in the back-stab location/slot and then push the light switch, receptacle etc back into the box wire tend to move, bend etc. The pressure applied to the piece of metal that holds the wire/conductor in place in a back stab is not sufficient over time to hold a tight connection. It may not fail at that moment but over time may start to slip out of the connection and cause a failure such as no connection or worse, an arcing. It is highly recommended that all conductors be placed under a screw (only one wire per screw) and tightened sufficiently with a proper sized screwdriver.

Very informative. Thank you!

 

[afjes_2016]

Eisenfaust8 you are very welcome.

 

[Snoonyb]

I have corrected you a few times and we have argued about things, I have backed up my arguments with pictures and or videos found on the interweb, so what.

You would be ignored if you didn't say foolish things that only confuse people coming here for help.

On occasion I do say I am guessing when I answer someone, I have never seen you say I am pretending I know something and will argue for days not to prove anything but just to piss people off.:down:

While you have some practical experience and a great deal of knowledge, in very specific areas, everything I post is from practical, self taught hands-on experience, not learned or justified from someone else's internet posting.

And while you thrive on belaboring and stretching a topic past its point of natural expiration, it's boring and I have better ways to spend my time.

 

[Snoonyb]

"UL" = equals minimum safety standards to be met (by them, the laboratory). Just like NEC (by NFPA). We here give you our suggestions from "field" experience. This is why I "liked" nealtw's reply.

UL is Underwriters Laboratory.

Products are submitted along with an accompanying statement of performance. Those that meet those performance standards receive an approval.

 

[nealtw]

While you have some practical experience and a great deal of knowledge, in very specific areas, everything I post is from practical, self taught hands-on experience, not learned or justified from someone else's internet posting.

And while you thrive on belaboring and stretching a topic past its point of natural expiration, it's boring and I have better ways to spend my time.

There you go, there is no right or wrong way there is just your way.
Doing it wrong for a life time is not experience.
You sir have no idea what my experience is but we do know you have no idea about some of the stuff you talk about.

 

[afjes_2016]

UL is Underwriters Laboratory.

Products are submitted along with an accompanying statement of performance. Those that meet those performance standards receive an approval.

I am fully aware of that fact. Thus the term "laboratory" in my post. I was simply referring to the fact that just like the NEC (National Electric Code issued by the NFPA on a every three year basis) they give the minimum safety standards for products where as NEC is for application.

 

[nealtw]

I am fully aware of that fact. Thus the term "laboratory" in my post. I was simply referring to the fact that just like the NEC (National Electric Code issued by the NFPA on a every three year basis) they give the minimum safety standards for products where as NEC is for application.

You're wasting your time, he just wants to drag crap out as long as he can.

 

[Snoonyb]

I am fully aware of that fact. Thus the term "laboratory" in my post. I was simply referring to the fact that just like the NEC (National Electric Code issued by the NFPA on a every three year basis) they give the minimum safety standards for products where as NEC is for application.

Also, there is an implicit requirement that prior to being submitted for use in buildings, products carry specific agency approvals.

 

[Snoonyb]

You're wasting your time, he just wants to drag crap out as long as he can.

As evidenced by the difference in the number of my posts, and yours.

 

[Snoonyb]

There you go, there is no right or wrong way there is just your way.

As usual, no back-qoute, just another spurious, erroneous assumption.

Doing it wrong for a life time is not experience.

Experience is being in practice for over 40yrs and not having, a single, warranty call-back. And I warranty my work for the length of time the original contracting party occupies the building I was tasked to perform the tasks on.

You sir have no idea what my experience is but we do know you have no idea about some of the stuff you talk about.

Want to compare resumes?

 

[nealtw]

As usual, no back-qoute, just another spurious, erroneous assumption.



Experience is being in practice for over 40yrs and not having, a single, warranty call-back. And I warranty my work for the length of time the original contracting party occupies the building I was tasked to perform the tasks on.



Want to compare resumes?

Are still at it?:down:

 

[Snoonyb]

Are still at it?:down:

Just as I thought.

 

[havasu]

Enough kids. Please go to your corners for a time out. :nono:

 

[nealtw]

Just as I thought.

A thought is a good idea, you should practice that.

 

[oldognewtrick]

If you guys want to argue how many angles can dance on the head of a pin, take it to private message. I've told you we're here to help folks solve problems not have a drama class. Last warning.

 

[bud16415]

"UL" = equals minimum safety standards to be met (by them, the laboratory). Just like NEC (by NFPA). We here give you our suggestions from "field" experience. This is why I "liked" nealtw's reply.

Yes, back stabbing is approved. However, by field experienced persons such as myself (no, I am by far not an expert!!!!!) find many times that back stabbing receptacles or switches serve to be an issue in the future. The pressure applied to any electrical connection is the secret to keeping that connection "safe!!". "Loose wires start fires" is what my instructor always preached. It is true too. Many times loose wires will arc and cause heat, failure and or fire in time. When you put a wire in the back-stab location/slot and then push the light switch, receptacle etc back into the box wire tend to move, bend etc. The pressure applied to the piece of metal that holds the wire/conductor in place in a back stab is not sufficient over time to hold a tight connection. It may not fail at that moment but over time may start to slip out of the connection and cause a failure such as no connection or worse, an arcing. It is highly recommended that all conductors be placed under a screw (only one wire per screw) and tightened sufficiently with a proper sized screwdriver.

Great answer and I would also add that it is one thing to use the back stab to power the outlet and it is another to use it to continue the circuit down stream. There could be many more outlets fed off this one back stab point and the combined current of all the circuit up to what will trip the breaker will pass thru that friction connection.

Joining the wires with a pigtail and a wire nut is normally considered the best method but that isn’t without a chance for a bad connection also if the nut is the wrong size or not tightened properly. Over the years wire nuts have changed a lot also. The old ones were ceramic or plastic and didn’t do a great job of pressing all the wires together.

I do a tight twist and a trim before I put the nut on. I know hardly anyone does that as it takes a minute longer. I was taught in the old days that the wires should be joined on their own well enough to always have a good connection and the nut is extra connection and insulation. Different people wire nut in different ways.