How to get this ready for cabinets and appliances?

Discussion in 'General Home Improvement Discussion' started by farmerjohn1324, Nov 15, 2017.

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  1. Nov 15, 2017 #1

    farmerjohn1324

    farmerjohn1324

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    Obviously I need to put drywall over the pipes. How do I build back the wood frame support?

    What should I do where the brick was in the corner? I would like for it to just look like the rest of the wall. Plain, flat, and white.

    And what could I do about hiding the wires that are near the ceiling? The handyman that was working mentioned putting some drywall there in the shape of a triangle. How many wood cleats would I need for this? What size wood and on all 3 sides?

    Also, how do I know how many coats of drywall mud were put on this ceiling? I wasn't here when it was done. Is it ready for painting? What would be the danger of painting with too few coats? What is the purpose of the second and third drywall mud coat?

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    Last edited: Nov 15, 2017
  2. Nov 15, 2017 #2

    nealtw

    nealtw

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  3. Nov 15, 2017 #3

    Snoonyb

    Snoonyb

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    "Obviously I need to put drywall over the pipes. How do I build back the wood frame support?"

    What is going to be placed on, or attached to that wall?

    "What should I do where the brick was in the corner? I would like for it to just look like the rest of the wall. Plain, flat, and white."

    Whoever taped and mudded the drywall could have/should have skim coated the masonry.

    "And what could I do about hiding the wires that are near the ceiling?"

    What are they for and if switched, from where?



    "Also, how do I know how many coats of drywall mud were put on this ceiling?"

    Ask the vendor.

    "Is it ready for painting?"

    Ask the vendor.

    "What would be the danger of painting with too few coats?"

    The finish.

    "What is the purpose of the second and third drywall mud coat?"

    Covered in one of "your" previous threads.
     
  4. Nov 15, 2017 #4

    farmerjohn1324

    farmerjohn1324

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    How do I bring wire through this conduit that's run through the concrete floor? There's about 9 feet of distance.

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  5. Nov 15, 2017 #5

    farmerjohn1324

    farmerjohn1324

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    There will be cabinets, an oven, and a microwave with range hood attached to the wall.

    The wire dangling in the middle was to a light fixture no longer in use. I'm going to snip it and cap it. The other two go to the a/c and to some lights in the kitchen, switched in the kitchen.

    I guess I will just rip off the plywood that has the remains of the brick on it and replace it with drywall.

    "The vendor" is a handyman that ran off. I have no idea how many coats he put on it. From looking at it, I would guess one. So I will add two more just to be safe.
     
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2017
  6. Nov 15, 2017 #6

    Snoonyb

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    Find the other end and tell us about it.
     
  7. Nov 15, 2017 #7

    Snoonyb

    Snoonyb

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    So, who's running all the required services, prior to the walls being closed up?

    Why not a fixture over the sink?
    Why not terminate the conductors correctly, like you come here in advice for?

    Is the masonry just a veneer?

    It looks like 2, so rub your hand across it and use a straight edge to determine the amount of the depression.
     
  8. Nov 16, 2017 #8

    farmerjohn1324

    farmerjohn1324

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    I found the answer on Google. Fish tape.
     
  9. Nov 16, 2017 #9

    farmerjohn1324

    farmerjohn1324

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    Who is running the services? Most of them are in place, but I'm doing the rest. I have to connect the water lines and move the 240 outlet to where the stove is going to be, in the middle of the back wall.

    The sink is going to be in a center island in the middle of the room. There are enough other lights in the room that I don't think I need one over the stove. Two pendant lights will hang over the center island.

    How do I terminate a conductor correctly? Currently, it's wire nutted, so I was just going to shorten the wire and wire nut it again.

    Yes, the masonry is a veneer.

    However, I have bigger problems as seen below.
     
  10. Nov 16, 2017 #10

    farmerjohn1324

    farmerjohn1324

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    Pretty sure my handyman installed PVC, rather than CPVC for the pipes going underneath the concrete that will go into the center island, so I will have to cut up the floor with my 7" angle grinder. Oh well. Tried to save money by having a handyman teach me as he went, but he had his limits.
     
  11. Nov 16, 2017 #11

    Snoonyb

    Snoonyb

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    If the 2 white PVC are the water lines for the Island/peninsula, where is the waste line?

    Is the MC cable intended to be the elec.?

    Also in photo's 1 & 2 there is a no-hub coupling on a PVC line that doesn't appear to have a vent, which should have glued couplings, unless you are going to provide an access panel.
     
  12. Nov 16, 2017 #12

    Snoonyb

    Snoonyb

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    Then what are going to do with all the unattached plumbing?

    I don;t see any counter recep. above the incomplete wall.

    You need power for the hood.

    In a "J" box, not just wire nutted and stuffed in a wall cavity.

    Then peal and finish.
     
  13. Nov 16, 2017 #13

    farmerjohn1324

    farmerjohn1324

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    In this picture, you can see 3 pipes (2 small, 1 large) and a metal conduit. The 2 small pipes are PVC pipes that I need to replace with CPVC. The large PVC pipe is the drain. However, the "drain pipe" you see near the opened wall is unattached. The drain pipe goes underground and connects with the black vent pipe underneath the slab.

    Yes, the MC cable will be the electric. I can see 3 wires in it when looking into it. Something I didn't notice before.

    If I replace the no-hub with a cap, does this eliminate the need for a Studor vent?

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  14. Nov 16, 2017 #14

    farmerjohn1324

    farmerjohn1324

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    What unattached plumbing do you speak of?

    There is a GFCI/switch that will be replaced with just a GFCI on the left and I have begun to cut a hole for a second GFCI outlet on the right. I put a knife in it so you can see.

    Yes, I will need power for the hood and the microwave as well. I could take that wire (it's 1 Romex) and use it to power an outlet that is kept in a cabinet above the microwave.

    When you say "peel and finish," do you mean remove the remnants of the brick and mortar and smooth the wall with joint compound?

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    Last edited: Nov 16, 2017
  15. Nov 16, 2017 #15

    Snoonyb

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    If the metal conduit you are referring to, is the 1/2" flex, I mistook that for MC cable, however, how deep is it buried, and if it is in the subsoil it should have been elec. PVC or ridgid, not flex.

    Then it should have been abandoned, capped and/or removed.

    So, the island vent will be a studor vent, correct.

    If we've progressed to the same page, what I had perceived as MC is actually metallic flex. What elec. equipment will be at the Island, besides na GFCI, what are the colors of the conductors?

    The no-hub coupling I am referring to is on the left side of the 4" vent.
     
  16. Nov 16, 2017 #16

    Snoonyb

    Snoonyb

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    Those protruding from the slab have been addressed. the other is on the right side of the 4" stack.

    Thanks, I was asking to insure their inclusion.

    The MW needs to be on a separate circuit.

    Correct, unless it's easier to just replace the drywall.
     
  17. Nov 16, 2017 #17

    farmerjohn1324

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    https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-in-x-10-ft-PVC-Schedule-40-Conduit-67462/202295893

    Is this what I should buy for the electric that's run under the slab? It is in the soil under the 4" slab.

    I will remove the unused PVC drain pipe when I cut the slab. Yes, the island will be a studor vent.

    The island will have a dishwasher, garbage disposal, and switch to operate the garbage disposal located inside the sink base cabinet. I hadn't planned on putting any outlets (GFCI) on the island. Should I? If so, where should I put it? Inside the cabinet? On the side (children hazard!)? Drill through the granite countertop?

    If I replace the no-hub coupling with PVC, then do I need a vent other than inside the island? Must I replace the no-hub cap with a PVC cap? Believe it or not, there is a no-hub buried 6-8" underground near where the PVC drain pipe meets the black iron drain pipe. Is that bad?
     
    Last edited: Nov 16, 2017
  18. Nov 16, 2017 #18

    farmerjohn1324

    farmerjohn1324

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    The cap on the right side of the stack is where the sink used to attach to. Can I not leave it like that, maybe if I change the cap to PVC?

    Does the MW need to be on its own individual circuit? Why is this? My MW at home is just plugged in to a normal outlet.
     
  19. Nov 17, 2017 #19

    Snoonyb

    Snoonyb

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    You should be able to pull the circuits necessary through 1/2."

    Keep in mind, you should have a min. of 2 appliance circuits, and there for counter appliances.

    Unless it is a separate circuit, the 2nd counter recep. on the wall can be GFCI protected by the existing GFCI.

    Instead of the inconvenience of a switch inside of a cabinet, there are countertop push button disposal switches.

    The DW should have its own circuit.

    You'll have a countertop work area either too one/or both sides of the sink so a cabinet mounted GFCI, on one/or both ends.

    The make them tamperproof.

    It appears that that is a drain line for a sink and need to be vented.

    Any fitting with a compression cap needs to be accessible.

    They should be glued fittings.
     
  20. Nov 17, 2017 #20

    Snoonyb

    Snoonyb

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    As long as the cap is glued.

    Countertop MW are among those covered under the counter appliance circuits, so if it's not permanently attached it doesn't need it's own separate circuit.
     

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