How to replace electric cooktop?

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tomtheelder2020

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Mother-in-law's cooktop shorted out so I will be replacing it when the new one arrives Thursday. The old one looks like it just dropped into place, and I can't see any type of hold-downs from below, but even with a small pry bar I could only slightly lift one corner. Before I use brut force (based on assuming it is held down by some kind of caulk) do cooktops normally have some type of fastener? Regardless of how I get it out, is there anything else I should know about doing this replacement?
 

joecaption

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Now one can see what your seeing without some pictures above and below.
Is the new one the exact same shape and size?
Need to shut off the power to it, once you remove the cover where the connections are made you must double check the wires once the wire nuts are remove with a volt OHM meter to double check that there is no power going to it.
 

Eddie_T

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MIne (Jenn Air) has a long machine screw at about a 45º angle centered at each end of the pan. They may be kinda pointy on the end I can't remember. I can't easily get to them to get a picture. Mine is old enough that it is fed by 2 wire SE cable with concentric ground.
 

Snoonyb

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Depending upon the age and brand, as well as the counter top, if the cover that the burners fit into lifts, there may be as many as 4 screws securing the appliance, thru the casing, so, drop the pry-bar, and have a look-see.
 

tomtheelder2020

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... if the cover that the burners fit into lifts, there may be as many as 4 screws securing the appliance ....
Snoonbny, you nailed it. I couldn't see them from below but by removing burners and underlying pans I found 4 screws exactly as Eddie T described. Problem solved. Thanks all!

BTW, Joecaption was right too - I should have included pictures in the original post. Thanks for reminder.
 

Snoonyb

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Sometimes makes one wonder about expiration dates.
 

tomtheelder2020

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... you must double check the wires once the wire nuts are remove with a volt OHM meter to double check that there is no power going to it.
I hate showing my ignorance but sometimes there is so much of it I have no choice. It seems to me that a continuity tester should also work - is that correct? (Found my volt/ohm meter, not used in years, batteries leaked - trashed the whole thing.)
 

Eddie_T

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You need a voltmeter or voltage presence tester. Your meter if it's still on the premises may still work as a voltmeter the batteries are only for the ohmmeter function and continuity testing.

I have used a small lamp and clip leads as a voltage tester (line to neutral or ground).
 
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