Hvac Rectangular Stack Inside Wall

Discussion in 'HVAC' started by tk3000, Dec 31, 2016.

  1. Jan 10, 2017 #21

    tk3000

    tk3000

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    Was a little bit too cold here lately, so I suspended activities; but weather is improving so backing to work... I got the hvac rectangular stack taped on its joints with foil tape and used one sheet metal screw to afix a cleat that was protruding. After that I wrapped two sections of reflectixe insulation on the stack (one is loose and needs to be tapped), as shown below:

    [​IMG]

    I dry fitted the register at the bottom to have an idea of how it would fit and look, and in this case there no extra 2x4 piece atop of the bottom plate but still the bottom of the register front cover is way above the subfloor/slab and I wish I could get it flush with the floor. So the idea would be to not use baseboard right below the register and have it flush with the floor (new floor would raise subfloor by less than 1/2"). Would there other registers with different front face sizes or other easy way to fix this?

    thks
     
  2. Jan 10, 2017 #22

    beachguy005

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    Easy way to fix it? Yes, raise it up 6". As mentioned earlier, you're going to have issues when you install the baseboard trim. That low and you'll have to butt cut ends of the baseboard against the grill. Raise it up and the baseboard runs uncut below it. It will also look better raised up.
     
  3. Jan 10, 2017 #23

    nealtw

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    Or trim it out like you had a plan.

    location-cold-air-return-vents-800x800.jpg
     
  4. Jan 10, 2017 #24

    KULTULZ

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    You mean register boot?

    [​IMG]
     
  5. Jan 10, 2017 #25

    nealtw

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    Yup that is one I have seen, if it made for a wall why does it have a 3" reach thru the drywall.. Not to many ceiling or floors that need an oval duct.
     
  6. Jan 11, 2017 #26

    KULTULZ

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    Please bear with me Neal as you are the professional and I am the first year apprentice.

    I was framing a partition wall a few years ago and decided to move the outlet register from ceiling to wall. I researched/ciphered and what I found is that oval takes less room in the cavity and is easier to work with. So I am just trying to pick your brain here... :)

    How about this design, is it better for his use?

    [​IMG]
     
  7. Jan 11, 2017 #27

    nealtw

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    I am no pro on this stuff but look at your photo, the oval is 3 1/2 deep and there is a half inch in the front where it can come thru the drywall, what are you supposed to do with the half inch in the back.

    I was told to strap out the wall a half inch and I said use a 4" round pipe.
     
  8. Jan 11, 2017 #28

    KULTULZ

    KULTULZ

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    If the boot is 3 1/2", that will account for the stud depth and the 1/2" for the drywall, right?

    That register trim-out in the baseboard shown above is trick, I am going to borrow that... :)
     
  9. Jan 11, 2017 #29

    nealtw

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    No, the duct is 3 1/2. the front sticks thru the drywall the back of the boots sticks out 1/2" where the drywall is supposed to go in the back.

    What the problem is that the pros never put heat down a wall in the basement, they stay in the ceiling and this would fit in the outside wall because we build that 1" away from the concrete but then it gets no insulation behind it. The outside wall are all done when the house is built. So when a home owner want a room or two done they have Mr. Hvac run those down the wall and then a couple years later I am back to finish some more rooms, these have to be dealt with. Betyter yet is when they use one that has 6" deep boot for a 5 1/2 inch wall in a 2x4 wall, that I really don't understand.
     
  10. Jan 11, 2017 #30

    buffalo

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    That boot fits perfectly in a 2x4 wall . A 4" round pipe dosnt carry as much CFM ( cubic feet per minute ) . That's why they make oval pipe , it's equivalent to 6" round .
     
  11. Jan 11, 2017 #31

    nealtw

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    The oval pipe they use here is 3 1/2 thick, the boot is 4 1/2.
    Yup 4" fit nicely in a 2x4 wall until you want to dry wall the back side.:rofl:
     
  12. Jan 11, 2017 #32

    Jeffh

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    I think that boot needs dimensions written on it, before we can make assumptions on if it'd fit. I am able to get all sorts of sizes of oval, as I'm currently working with 42/20, 44/22 and 16/8.
     
  13. Jan 11, 2017 #33

    nealtw

    nealtw

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    I am sure they are available but they just don't seem to be where I live.:trophy:
     
  14. Jan 12, 2017 #34

    tk3000

    tk3000

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    Not sure if I can raise it that high without cutting the stack shorter: the duct work in the attic is in sort of fixed spot (I have to double check on that).

    I am also trying to depict how it is going to look asthetically. And it it looks better raises, I probably will go with it.

    thks
     
  15. Jan 12, 2017 #35

    tk3000

    tk3000

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    Yep, that is an option too. Probably the easy way around!
     

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