Improper plumbing & trying to remodel bathroom/laundry

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Ok, I finally got to watch both videos. The quick connect thing for PEX seems to be the one I would be comfortable dealing with.

As for sweating pipes.. "fire bad!" :p I was ok using a regular soldering iron in electronics class, but I don't even like to get near ovens. LOL. I know my air conditioning guy can sweat pipes (I will probably have him move or extend ducts in the attic for the relocated vent fan). For the most part, I know I already have CPVC in place for a lot of things, so I could probably just use the sharkbite fittings to attach the PEX. One thing I didn't see was how the things are supposed to connect to cpvc and copper. I assume it just slides on? Is any adhesive needed?

Thanks for the info on the tub installation. I knew about the ledgerboard-- did not know it had to be treated lumber. I was not clear on the size of the hole. I've been trying to find videos of installing tubs from scratch where there wasn't one before, but most of them I find involve removing an old tub and replacing it with a shower or new tub.

I'm thinking I will go with a vikrel/acrylic tub because its lighter weight. I'm still trying to settle on a good brand that works with a decent surround. It will be about 60" x 30" with left-hand drain.

I see that Flex Seal now makes a caulk. I wonder if it is any good.

Again, thank you guys so much for the feedback and info.
 
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when you install your acrylic tub. install a ledger board as described, nail the flange to studs
pack insulation, under and around the tub. the acrylic's tend to be a little loud/noisey
the key to having the tub surround kit work. is the tub MUST be level. if not, the surround will be cattawhompus

along the flange BEFORE you set the panel, 100% silicon bead. then set the panel. screw to studs
insulate the crap out of the wall behind the unit

b43db1a7-b291-44c6-8e2c-d18c4012200b_400.jpg
 
when you install your acrylic tub. install a ledger board as described, nail the flange to studs
pack insulation, under and around the tub. the acrylic's tend to be a little loud/noisey
the key to having the tub surround kit work. is the tub MUST be level. if not, the surround will be cattawhompus

along the flange BEFORE you set the panel, 100% silicon bead. then set the panel. screw to studs
insulate the crap out of the wall behind the unit

And a Nice bed of some kind of cement or mortar under the tub, helps to keep the bottom stable. We use structolite which is for under acrylic tubs.
Great Advice, Good luck!!
 
list of pvc fittings for the rough in

1 3x2 combination
1 3x2 wye
1 3" san tee with 2" left hand side outlet
1 3" 90
1 4x3 toilet 90
1 2' p-trap
1 2x 1 1/2 bushing for ptrap
1 2" 45
2 2" 90
1 3x2 bushing for the 3" tee


for the above floor
1 2" tee
1 2" ptrap
1 oatey washer box
2 2" co tee
1 2x 1 1/2 tee
1 2x 1 1/2x 1 1/2 tee
1 1 1/2 90


for the vents

tie, the washing machine vent and sink vent into the vent for the toilet, offset toilet vent to tie into existing vent

Ok, just to make sure I understand you correctly, I posted photos of the stuff with descriptions-- based on what I found when I searched for the items in your list. I did find there was nothing with "outlet" but it had "inlet".
Rough In:
10177280_10152595118540168_6458606790901740528_n.jpg


Above Floor:
10177280_10152595118545168_5611402072472842143_n.jpg


I didn't know if you meant the short elbows or the long ones so I included pics of both.

Now I'm trying to figure out what each thing hooks to. LOL.

When you said to offset the toilet vent-- did you mean offset it to the east (right)? or do the west (left)? Or a different way?

Thanks for the tips on the tub installation. I was reading that some people use "mud" (I know not actual mud, but building stuff) under the tub. And some talked about using a layer of felt-- I would worry that could get mold if there were any leaks though.

I've been watching
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ql_c8Fa002E[/ame]

Is it just me, or could the guy have created a template with the cardboard box? I mean, I kept thinking he could set the tub on the box, line up the edges of the cardboard with edges of the tub and then mark lines with notes of measurement. Also, I would use screws as well as nails just to be certain that ledgerboard was solid.

I see he used Great Stuff spray foam under the tub. I admit I don't really like that idea. I've used that stuff before and its a pain. I know it expands and all, but it doesn't seem like it would really evenly distribute.. I personally would think about leveling the floor before installing the ledgerboard.

The tub he used looked interesting, but I've never seen that type in my area.

I did take note of how he was making the wall level-- although I do not have a nail gun.

What do you guys think of the flex seal caulk stuff?

Ok, 100% silicone (any brands recommended)?

InspectorD, thank you for the structolite tip. I'll have to look that up.

I know I'm asking a lot of questions, but I want to make sure I'm understanding everything correctly.

I very much appreciate the replies.
 
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I think I might have picked a contender for the tub/shower surround:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/STERLING...Left-Hand-Drain-in-White-61030110-0/202952648

It supposedly does not require caulk. It doesn't have a built-in flange though. This is both the tub and the surround. The surround is one of the few ones that can be cut for a window. The window trim kit is about $162-- which is high, but the entire kit would be less than $770.

I did really like the surround from Menard's but the nearest one is over 2 hours away, I don't trust the delivery services to not break it, and I would still have to get a tub to go with it. Plus it is only 59"W instead of 60"W.
http://www.menards.com/main/bath/ba...late-and-window-trim-kit/p-1297953-c-5883.htm

A similar surround that is the right size would be nice for my bathroom though. I could slap it up around my cast iron tub.
 
I missed the window, did not see a window, what window?

something i did. [it was a rental]

i installed a cultured marble tub surround, the bathroom had a window. we put a nice curtain in it
and covered it up.

LOL from outside, window with curtain. from inside just a cultured marble tub surround
 
Neal, Vikrel is a composite material patented by Kohler. I believe it has fiberglass, resins, and filler in it; but that it is sturdier than just fiberglass. It tends to have good reviews and people have reported that it has survived house fires.

The particular Sterling wall and tub kit fits together with some sort of locking groove system and the wall kit can be put direct-to-stud instead of requiring some sort of greenboard behind it.

Frodo, there is a window next to where I want to put the tub:
10636062_10152564894290168_6975341148229226197_n.jpg


The existing window is about 22" wide. I'm trying to remember the height from the floor-- I believe its about 47" from the floor but I would have to measure again to be sure. It will likely need to be replaced with something that has tempered glass.
I envisioned it looking something like this (only smaller)
tumblr_nevj6kegcK1qkwd9ao1_500.jpg


(that is the trim kit and wall surround from Menard's that I liked, but I don't live near a Mendard's and I haven't found that kit at other stores that are near me).

We want to keep the window to have some natural light coming in. Well, "we" meaning my mother. LOL. She was offended at the idea of covering the window.
 
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Zannej: I remember from previous posts that you had tight access to the room through the hall. As you pick your tub and surround, make sure it all fits thru the doorways and halls.
 
Zannej: I remember from previous posts that you had tight access to the room through the hall. As you pick your tub and surround, make sure it all fits thru the doorways and halls.

Thanks. That was one of the reasons why I wanted a modular surround instead of one-piece. The back door is 36" wide and the hallway is about 34" wide. I plan to take down some walls before moving a tub in so there will be some decent space to turn the tub. I want only a 30" wide tub.

The other bathroom will be trickier since the bathroom doorway is only 24" so I will have to make sure the tub is not very tall.

For the 3rd bathroom, I already have a tub in place but just need a surround.

I wonder how much it would cost to have the surround and window kit shipped from Menard's and hope that it arrives undamaged... Or if I should go with the Sterling and get it from HD (that way I can check it at the store to confirm it is not damaged). Fun part will be seeing if it fits in the expedition with the seats folded down. LOL.

I think the Sterling one would require less work to get it in place and I wouldn't have to put up greenboard and glue it up. I think that one would last longer. I'll have to look in to some coupons to see if I can cut any costs.

I'm seriously thinking of using any leftover self-leveling flooring in the tub area to make sure its level before I mess with the ledgerboard and other stuff.
 
the window in a wet/shower in my opinion is a very bad idea.

water, wood, steam, condensation, does not mix, over time it will rot out the king studs


just my opinion,
 
if you want to make mom happy. remove window

install a 1' x 3' window above the shower stall gives light, and is high enough for privacy

also above the wet area.

white-tub-surround-panels.jpg
 
LOL. Mom is not that easily pleased. She would complain about how that would look on the outside. I intend to get a vinyl curtain to cover the window (they sell large enough ones for like $7 for 2 curtains) on Amazon. I'm thinking of having magnets under the trim and then lining the curtain with magnets to make it stay close to the enclosure and block most of the water. That way the shower spray would not be directly hitting the window.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XQ2LFG/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
(its frosted so it gives privacy- a single panel is 45" x 36")

I personally don't like the idea of a window in a shower, but throwing in too many changes may mean the project will not get approval and we'll be stuck with the current situation.
 
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I think you are stuck between a rock and a hard place, or in your case a brother and a mother.
Any chance you can do away with the shower. It will be a major problem in a year or two and you will be removing tub surround or repairing from the outside, mom will not be pleased.
 
My brother is actually too large to just take a bath-- he needs a shower. We considered corner showers and other options, but he's too large to be able to move around. Mom wants a shower in there. I've heard some people just put plexiglass over the windows in showers. I wonder if that would work. I have plexiglass down in the workshop.

I know it isn't a perfect solution, but I plan to caulk the daylights out of everything and keep that window as covered as possible.
 
Vinyl window, vinyl trim. Or tile right up to the edges.
A curtain won't help enough as steam and general moisture issues will get past it. Plexiglass may stop puddling, but moist air is a challenge, even if you think you have caulked the s@!t out of it.
 
Unless you are willing to pull the window and re-install with vinyl and seal properly you won't win, because of the hot shower moisture will find it's way past the old window and then condence in there behind the plexyglass
 
LOL. Mom is not that easily pleased. She would complain about how that would look on the outside. I intend to get a vinyl curtain to cover the window (they sell large enough ones for like $7 for 2 curtains) on Amazon. I'm thinking of having magnets under the trim and then lining the curtain with magnets to make it stay close to the enclosure and block most of the water. That way the shower spray would not be directly hitting the window.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XQ2LFG/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
(its frosted so it gives privacy- a single panel is 45" x 36")

I personally don't like the idea of a window in a shower, but throwing in too many changes may mean the project will not get approval and we'll be stuck with the current situation.


do what i do with dealing with my wife or my mom.

nod yes, agree with everything they say, then do what you wanted to do.
they do not comprehind, water, steam, ruined wood or wood rot.
all they know is..it looks good.
sometimes it is easier to beg forgiveness than to ask permission.

if you leave a window in a shower, you will be tearing out that wall within 5 years and replacing everything


to do it the cheap way. jut cover the window with the tub surround

jut my opinion
 
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Thanks guys. The current window is metal, but the sill is wood. It's withstood a lot of moisture from the improperly vented laundry room over the years. It got so damp in there that it made the stencils on the ceiling fans sort of bleed/smear.

It's usually pretty humid outside too. I'll have to see if they even make vinyl windows in that size.

At least I've narrowed down what tub/surround and have a general idea of the plumbing layout. Just have to plan everything out and expect some surprises along the way.

Frodo, I wish it were that simple with her. If things are not done her way she does not let it go. I will never hear the end of it. It makes my arrhythmia act up and gives me a headache. LOL.
 
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