Improper plumbing & trying to remodel bathroom/laundry

[Snoonyb]

In the wash basin, your brother has his, at the ready.

 

[zannej]

In the wash basin, your brother has his, at the ready.

Ohhh. For some reason I thought this was about the condensate drain for the AC because I got confused about what thread I was reading. LOL.

I absolutely HATE that flexible drain line thing. Would not use it if someone paid me to. Even if rig it to drain into rocks or something, I'm not using that crap.

I'm trying to figure out the best way to insulate the water supply lines while they are outside for winter. I figure a small cooler over the faucet and the soft foam for the rest might work OK. Might loop the pex if possible to give it room to raise it up more so it can sit on the landing if we ever build it. But that is a looong ways off.

I was trying to explain to my brother what I wanted to do with the back door and why bc he said our friend complained that I was "unreasonable" to want to do it to code. I told him the door needed a proper header and the jack studs weren't tall enough and would need to be replaced and that I want to put a proper header in because its a load-bearing wall. It has a 2x4 on its back and it has warped. The cripples will need to be cut to size and taller jack studs will need to be put in and the floor will need to be repaired. I also explained to my brother that there is water damage all the way through to the subfloor that is visible from under the house so that we will likely have to tear the floor out down to the joists. I explained which walls were load-bearing, why things needed to be done a certain way, why I wanted to use insulation foam in the header instead of plywood (its cheaper than the plywood and is code-compliant). Bro argued that bc nothing in this house is to code that we shouldn't bother to do stuff to code. Like, anything less than code is not safe. Especially since code in our area is not very strict. Code exists for a reason. He seemed to understand once I explained my reasoning though. I still need to figure out if the wall back there is 2x6 or 2x4. I think its 2x6 but need to go check when there's enough light to see. Also need to put a bulb in the ceiling light there to see if that light works.

 

[Ron Van]

Sure looks like hail damage.

 

[silvajohnny657]

As a complete aside, I found a light I want to get for my kitchen to replace a crappy fluorescent one that burned out above the sink. Found a damp rated hardwired 5k color 1800 lumens 24" LED strip one. I already have a remote switch setup thingy so that can be used to add a light switch for it.
Also, the wood under the sliding glass door looks terrible.
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I can hardly wait to get my pump replaced and water running again. Oh yeah, and in the pic you can see where the old freezer hit the siding on its way out.

That sounds like a solid upgrade for your kitchen lighting! The 5k color temperature will give you a bright, natural daylight feel, which is perfect for kitchen tasks. The 1800 lumens should provide plenty of light, and since it’s damp-rated, you won’t have to worry about moisture issues near the sink. It’s great that you already have a remote switch setup—adding a light switch for the new fixture should be a breeze.

As for the wood under the sliding glass door, that’s something you might want to address soon. Depending on the extent of the damage, it might be a good idea to either refinish or replace the wood to prevent any further deterioration. If the wood is just looking worn, a good sanding and a fresh coat of paint or stain might do the trick. But if it's more severe, you might need to look into replacing the affected section to avoid any structural issues down the line. If you need any help or advice on that, I’m here to assist!

 

[zannej]

That sounds like a solid upgrade for your kitchen lighting! The 5k color temperature will give you a bright, natural daylight feel, which is perfect for kitchen tasks. The 1800 lumens should provide plenty of light, and since it’s damp-rated, you won’t have to worry about moisture issues near the sink. It’s great that you already have a remote switch setup—adding a light switch for the new fixture should be a breeze.

As for the wood under the sliding glass door, that’s something you might want to address soon. Depending on the extent of the damage, it might be a good idea to either refinish or replace the wood to prevent any further deterioration. If the wood is just looking worn, a good sanding and a fresh coat of paint or stain might do the trick. But if it's more severe, you might need to look into replacing the affected section to avoid any structural issues down the line. If you need any help or advice on that, I’m here to assist!

Thank you. I'm expecting the wood to be completely rotted out and need to be replaced entirely. I'm wondering if any of it can be replaced with PVC. If I go with wood it will be pressure treated and any screws or nails will be hot dipped galvanized.

 

[zannej]

So, I've decided I want to build a frame for the frameless glass block window. I saw a youtube video where someone used the tracks for building glass block stuff and then put the whole window in. So, the plan is to make a frame out of 1x4 PVC boards. I'll put the tracks on the front edge of the frame with screws and will use construction adhesive and put the window in. Bottom and top parts of the frame will be long.

Outer part is PVC boards, inner with mitered corners represents tracks. Screws or nails in the bottom and top. Might use clear PVC cement where the sides connect to the bottom. It's clearly not to scale. LOL.
It will be installed from the inside.

I have a router bit that will run along a board and cut stuff so I can use that to cut out the hole for the window out of the shower wall. I forget what the term for that type of router bit is.

Got Mustee shower window trim to put up to bridge gap between the window and the surround.