Improper plumbing & trying to remodel bathroom/laundry

[zannej]

I know this is a weird request, but can you go back threw this 36 pages and delete crap we do not need
i would make going back looking for stuff a lot easier

i am looking for the tub and shower units you said you are using

btw, that 1.5x1.25 reducing washer, it comes with the ptrap

Sadly, I can't. I wish I could go back and delete but I'm not able to edit/delete older posts. An admin would have to do it. I can probably go back through the pages and make notes on which posts had good info and write that info down in my notes.

I need to look at my notes to see what tub and shower I plan to use and I think what I will do (if there is enough space) is make a post that has all of the pertinent info. I'm not great at making things concise, but I can give it a shot.
Aside from the rough blueprints/sketches with measurements and the fixtures being used (and their dimensions), what else do you need to know?

Good to know about the reducing washer. I'll have to check a P-trap kit I got before and see if I can find that washer.

I really love that plumbing supply website you linked to me because pictures really help me.

Neal, cute little plastic horseshoes. I need to find the video again that talked about the shims they were using that would not compress or rot.

I'm going to go watch that last window video Frodo posted and then I'll see about compiling data (once my cats get out from in front of my screen so I can see what the hell I'm typing).

 

[nealtw]

So, we always hope that once the window is sitting on 1/4" thick spacers we end up with a gap all around the window, we no longer fill that with insulation, we leave that gap for water to run out but we do seal the inside with foam backer rod and caulk.
https://www.todayshomeowner.com/video/how-to-caulk-wide-cracks/

 

[nealtw]

Sadly, I can't. I wish I could go back and delete but I'm not able to edit/delete older posts. An admin would have to do it. I can probably go back through the pages and make notes on which posts had good info and write that info down in my notes.

I need to look at my notes to see what tub and shower I plan to use and I think what I will do (if there is enough space) is make a post that has all of the pertinent info. I'm not great at making things concise, but I can give it a shot.
Aside from the rough blueprints/sketches with measurements and the fixtures being used (and their dimensions), what else do you need to know?

Good to know about the reducing washer. I'll have to check a P-trap kit I got before and see if I can find that washer.

I really love that plumbing supply website you linked to me because pictures really help me.

Neal, cute little plastic horseshoes. I need to find the video again that talked about the shims they were using that would not compress or rot.

I'm going to go watch that last window video Frodo posted and then I'll see about compiling data (once my cats get out from in front of my screen so I can see what the hell I'm typing).

I think you can delete or at least just replace the post with something like this.
.................

If you do that and find some of mine are an obstruction just let me know the numbers you don't need.

 

[frodo]

https://images.search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?p=cultured+marble+showers+images&fr=yhs-mozilla-003&hspart=mozilla&hsimp=yhs-003&imgurl=http%3A%2F%2Fst.hzcdn.com%2Ffimgs%2Ff491fe690f39332b_8566-w500-h666-b0-p0--traditional-bathroom.jpg#id=5&iurl=https%3A%2F%2Fs-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com%2F564x%2Fca%2F3d%2F24%2Fca3d24ad4fa81b68d947580953d49d43.jpg&action=click

take a look at this product, it is called cultured marble
it is man made marble,
you can get it in any size you want, you can also have the shower pan made 59''
you can put the drain left right or center

for a shower pan, and walls it is around $1000.00

you can also use any tub you want and use this as te surround

very easy to install, it glues to the wall and the edges are sealed with silly cone

 

[zannej]

I think you can delete or at least just replace the post with something like this.
.................

If you do that and find some of mine are an obstruction just let me know the numbers you don't need.

https://images.search.yahoo.com/yhs...24ad4fa81b68d947580953d49d43.jpg&action=click

take a look at this product, it is called cultured marble
it is man made marble,
you can get it in any size you want, you can also have the shower pan made 59''
you can put the drain left right or center

for a shower pan, and walls it is around $1000.00

you can also use any tub you want and use this as te surround

very easy to install, it glues to the wall and the edges are sealed with silly cone

Neal, I think only members who pay are able to edit or delete posts that are more than a week old. I'm not even sure which ones should be deleted-- there are so many... LOL. Thanks for the link to the video.

Frodo, thank you for that link. I plan to go with a Sterling direct-to-stud shower unit. There is a shower pan that has a flange and the walls snap on to it and it gets nailed directly to studs without needing caulk between the wall pieces and the shower pan. It's relatively lightweight and I think it costs around $700 or less. I have to find the one I was looking at again... (Mom didn't like the look of the cultured marble-- I showed it to her and she made a face. LOL). The Sterling shower unit comes with built in backers for grab bar installation.

I know what valve and lever I want for the shower and tubs, tub spouts, shower arms for the tubs, and showerheads for all shower and tubs. I'm leaning toward the Moen Magnetix line of showerheads that click in magnetically and I'm thinking the waterhill arm would give it nice distance from the wall and some decent height (although I could still get a less expensive one). I was thinking of getting nickel fixtures for the guest bath but then I saw the prices and decided that chrome will do fine. Mom wants a slidebar for her showerhead and I'm trying to pick a good one that the showerhead I like will fit on. When I do a sort of master post I will collect the info on which showerheads, surrounds, etc I'm leaning toward and have links to them.

The shower/tub surround I wanted for the guest bathroom is no longer being sold at HD and I think it is at Lowes but is more expensive than the same version that has the backers. And having the backers for later on is not a bad idea.

I have a good idea of what windows I want (assuming that window can be used as a replacement-- I'll have to talk to the people at HD again).

I'm trying to pick doors for the bathroom and for the exterior. Need something that can have a cat door put in.

And I just got total brainfreeze...

Edit: For the showers I'm thinking of going with Sterling Ensemble. One is 60x30x75.25 for $647. The other is 60x32x74.5 for $773.63.

 

[frodo]

sterling ? ok...
look, those cheap things can be beefed up, this is what you do.

rip the styrofoam off the bottom of the shower pan, put a layer of roofing tar papr on the floor

dump 2 five gallon buckets of wet cement...not stiff on the floor.

set the shower pan into the concrete, level

for he walls, figure out where you want your grab bars and nail up 2x6 behind the wall panels

also. pack the walls with insulation,,,

on the front side edge where the nail flange is. install a 2x4 sideways to nail to

https://www.amazon.com/chrome-plated-brass-fitting-flange/dp/b0046a8912

use these for your shower rods, buy a black threaded pipe and a cheap shower rod
put the cheap over the pipe,,,,you can do chin ups on it

 

[zannej]

Thanks Frodo.
The sterling ones don't have styrofoam on the bottom (at least not that I know of). This is what the bottom looks like:

They suggested setting it in "mud" or on a felt pad. I plan to put down self-leveling flooring (and I'll make sure the mix is right this time) first and then put down an anti-slip rug mat or something.

The reason I was going for the ones with the built-in-backers was because the one without the backers was discontinued. I might be confusing the tub one with the shower though. I looked at the specs and realized I don't like the backer locations so I'm going to try look at the shower without the backers. I believe the tub one only comes with the backers now, which is annoying.

Been distracted since I've been having to take care of my bro and his dog and a tornado hit town last night.

I'll try to compile the data later. (I know, I'm terrible about procrastinating).

 

[slownsteady]

Self-leveling for under the shower pan??? You know that stuff will just spread out and not fill gaps. unless you are planning some kind of dam for the area you will be pouring.

 

[zannej]

Self-leveling for under the shower pan??? You know that stuff will just spread out and not fill gaps. unless you are planning some kind of dam for the area you will be pouring.

To clarify: I intend to level the entire floor of the room first (and make dams-- I've watched videos on how to do that) for places I don't want it to go-- like where I'm roughing in the plumbing in the floor. In videos I've watched, people put down wood blocks wrapped in moisture barrier tape and caulk along the edges--and caulk all along the perimeter of the room. That way, the whole floor should be level for when I place things and then I can just do the support board on the back wall for the tub edge (I know the term but am blanking on it), add in the 2x10s between studs (because I do not like the spacing for the backers on the surround kit), and find out if I can use a rug mat underneath.

Frodo, I finally remembered why I decided to go with the ones with the backers already: It costs about $90 more for the one WITHOUT the backers for some odd reason.

Meanwhile, I'm working on compiling the data for a master post with what I hope is the necessary info.

 

[slownsteady]

okay. I thought you were intending to set the shower base in the self leveling stuff. Now it makes more sense.

 

[frodo]

not wood blocks wraped in whatever

use 1 1/2'' thick or what ever thickness you have your building styrofoam sheating is purrrfect

use that stuff then to remove just hit with hammer..or pour pvc cleaner on it LOL

for under tubs and showers a 5 gallon bucket of quickqrete is just right

 

[zannej]

not wood blocks wraped in whatever

use 1 1/2'' thick or what ever thickness you have your building styrofoam sheating is purrrfect

use that stuff then to remove just hit with hammer..or pour pvc cleaner on it LOL

for under tubs and showers a 5 gallon bucket of quickqrete is just right

maybe it's because I'm sick but I think I'm missing something. About the 1 1/2" thickness-- you're talking about supports for grab bars, right?
Not sure what you mean about the styrofoam sheeting-- sheathing?

Oh, are you talking about self-leveling flooring? I'm confused... LOL.

Good idea on the quickcrete under the tub/ shower. Would it be necessary if I leveled the floor first?

My brain is not wanting to cooperate with me-- I've been joking with my brother that he brought back Asian bird flu from the bird cafe in Japan.

 

[frodo]

the concrete undr the shower pan has nothing to do with level,
it is to take the flex out of the plastic,
if you do not take the flex out, the pan will move and the drain start to leak.

the floor of the shower moves, the drain pipe does not move

that is a problem, the solution, is to set the pan in concrete, so it will no longer flex/move

maybe it's because I'm sick but I think I'm missing something. About the 1 1/2" thickness-- you're talking about supports for grab bars, right?
Not sure what you mean about the styrofoam sheeting-- sheathing?

Oh, are you talking about self-leveling flooring? I'm confused... LOL.

Good idea on the quickcrete under the tub/ shower. Would it be necessary if I leveled the floor first?

My brain is not wanting to cooperate with me-- I've been joking with my brother that he brought back Asian bird flu from the bird cafe in Japan.

the

 

[zannej]

the concrete undr the shower pan has nothing to do with level,
it is to take the flex out of the plastic,
if you do not take the flex out, the pan will move and the drain start to leak.

the floor of the shower moves, the drain pipe does not move

that is a problem, the solution, is to set the pan in concrete, so it will no longer fex

Ok. That makes sense. I know they say mortar or a felt pad-- and it has a plastic grid on the underside to prevent some of the flex-- but concrete might be a safer bet for holding it still. Thanks!

Brain is still meh. This flu is kicking my asterisk. I was going to take my brother to the urgent care clinic but another tornado hit right where we were going to drive through.
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mrff1E-XI3A[/ame]

Whoever posted that has not seen truly horrific damage. I survived a supertyphoon in Guam-- that damage is minimal in comparison.

 

[zannej]

I'm still working on the master post because I am still trying to decide on a few things and I have the attention span of a fruit fly. LOL.

I did change my mind on one thing though. I was planning to get the Moentrol Kingsley shower valves and trim for all three bathrooms. Bathrooms 2 and 3 currently have a two lever system. I'm still planning to change Bathroom 2 over to a single valve since I think it will be easier for Mom to use. And I want a single lever in Bathroom 1. Fewer holes to cut in the tub surrounds.

But, after seeing an online sale and making an impulse buy, I'm going to keep Bathroom 3 as a two-lever system.

I know it may not be everyone's cup of tea, but I really like the whole white porcelain and I stumbled upon the Sign of the Crab Sacramento sets at PlumbingSupply. But I didn't like the tub spout or showerhead (didn't want them) and didn't like the words "hot" and "cold" on the levers. Since I didn't want to pay over $350 for the set and couldn't find a set without spout and/or showerhead, I looked around until I found the escutcheons and levers. I found that the diverter lever works just like the ones labeled hot and cold so I ordered two of them and two escutcheons. There was a weekend discount when I got them. Then I realized that I completely forgot that they will need cartridges to work. So, I'm now trying to figure out which cartridges I need.
The escutcheons are Sign of the Crab P0388C and the levers are Sign of the Crab P0214 (hot&cold were P0215).

I found a page with a list of cartridges and I think I've narrowed it down but am not certain.
There's the quarterturn ceramic cartridge PP245Q or PP0106Q. The plubmingsupply site has them for around $58 or so but I found them for $50 (not sure on shipping) at deabath.com (link goes to faucet parts list).
I'm also trying to figure out if I will need additional parts. I just didn't think about it before so I'm kicking myself.

 

[frodo]

try not to buy a generic brand valve, it makes it very hard to find parts down the road

or, buy a rebuild kit with the valve to use down the road

you can buy a delta valve, with crappy handles and buy the ceramic handles from delta

I know we had this discussion before, but, I disagree with the plastic shower panels and the plastic tub


they look like crap. lmo/ i'm a snob

 

[zannej]

try not to buy a generic brand valve, it makes it very hard to find parts down the road

or, buy a rebuild kit with the valve to use down the road

you can buy a delta valve, with crappy handles and buy the ceramic handles from delta

I know we had this discussion before, but, I disagree with the plastic shower panels and the plastic tub


they look like crap. lmo/ i'm a snob

Yeah. I shouldn't have bought the sign of the crab things. Impulse buy. I e-mailed the mfr for info-- still haven't heard back from them. I should have thought about that before I jumped the gun on the purchase. The cartridges have lifetime warranty-- so long as I have proof of purchase, if they ever go bad, I can get new ones for free from them-- so long as they are still in business. I believe they can use standard valves though. I wonder if I could have purchased Delta or Pfister or some other brand levers to fit on the escutcheons. If I can't get them to work I can sell them on the local swap shop site.

I think we have different tastes in the tub/shower things. It's cool.
Honestly, the really high end nice things would be out-of-place in this hodgepodge house. The plastic ones look really nice to me considering what I've lived with has been an avocado green fiberglass fugly showertub unit and my tub's walls have the cheapest glue-up surround panels the tenants could find (after they ruined the wall with the mural). It's just fugly.

If I were moving in to a nice "forever home", I would probably want the higher end surrounds.

 

[frodo]

Yeah. I shouldn't have bought the sign of the crab things. Impulse buy. I e-mailed the mfr for info-- still haven't heard back from them. I should have thought about that before I jumped the gun on the purchase. The cartridges have lifetime warranty-- so long as I have proof of purchase, if they ever go bad, I can get new ones for free from them-- so long as they are still in business. I believe they can use standard valves though. I wonder if I could have purchased Delta or Pfister or some other brand levers to fit on the escutcheons. If I can't get them to work I can sell them on the local swap shop site.

I think we have different tastes in the tub/shower things. It's cool.
Honestly, the really high end nice things would be out-of-place in this hodgepodge house. The plastic ones look really nice to me considering what I've lived with has been an avocado green fiberglass fugly showertub unit and my tub's walls have the cheapest glue-up surround panels the tenants could find (after they ruined the wall with the mural). It's just fugly.

If I were moving in to a nice "forever home", I would probably want the higher end surrounds.

understood

 

[zannej]

I will say that on the Sterling Vikrell ones, I've heard they can be pretty sturdy-- someone had a house fire and the vikrell shower/tub survived with nary a mark on it. Didn't even have to be refinished. And they have a grid pattern on the bottoms of the tubs/showers to offer more support.

On a side thing, I just remembered about the vacuum breaker thing for the handheld bidet sprayer thing. I'm trying to figure out what kind to get. I've seen "inline" and "external" and don't know what the difference is or where they would be installed. Would they attach right at the diverter or would they attach just below the sprayer attachment to the hose?
Inline example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00125PZE8/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
External example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F6BB2U/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Any thoughts on that?

 

[frodo]

I will say that on the Sterling Vikrell ones, I've heard they can be pretty sturdy-- someone had a house fire and the vikrell shower/tub survived with nary a mark on it. Didn't even have to be refinished. And they have a grid pattern on the bottoms of the tubs/showers to offer more support.

On a side thing, I just remembered about the vacuum breaker thing for the handheld bidet sprayer thing. I'm trying to figure out what kind to get. I've seen "inline" and "external" and don't know what the difference is or where they would be installed. Would they attach right at the diverter or would they attach just below the sprayer attachment to the hose?
Inline example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00125PZE8/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
External example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F6BB2U/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Any thoughts on that?

the VB that you show can not be used where water is under pressure all the time
like under the toilet attached to the supply line.
they are used at the nipple on the shower head, where they are not exposed to pressure all the time

https://www.amazon.com/Aquaus-360-Bidet-Certified-Ergonomic/dp/B01CF51ZJ2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494665511&sr=8-1&keywords=aquas+360+bidet