Largest AC on Standard wall plug???

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So when the manufacturer says "Exclusive V-shaped, serrated back-wiring clamps for superior contact".... I should not believe them?

I know looping the wire around the screw on the side is how it's been done since 1932 or whenever, but isn't it possible that a manufacturer came out with a better internal clamp so the wire can be stuck in the back and good contact is made?

I'm just having a hard time understanding why Leviton would say they have developed "Exclusive V-shaped, serrated back-wiring clamps for superior contact" and that not actually be true.

Seems like if that were not true it would cause legal problems and trust problems for their company.

Best I can tell, Leviton is supposed to be a major player in electrical products.

Is this not a good brand, and if not... what brand should I be using for the best product that is considered to be safer than Leviton?
 
I use to by leviton recep. at bace hdw for $.35 when the "back-stabs" would accept both 15 and 12ga conductors.

The product hasn't changed, just evolved and improved.

What they are attempting to do is satisfy a market, no seek the lowest common denominator.

If an auto were only available in green and yellow polka-dots.....................?

Use either the side wired or the commercial grade that the conductors enter from the back and are secured using the screw clamp.
 
Well, we can put a man on the moon as they say so there's no reason why a securing wires thru the back in not something that can be done just as safely as securing them on the side.

Seems to me mankind now has the technology to accomplish this...

I suspect the biggest issue is "we never did it like that" so some are going to suggest that something is wrong with putting the wires in from the back.

The whole reason I paid a little extra to get the "medical grade" version is because that appeared to be the best that was available.

All I know if I stuck the wires in the back, tightened the screws down real good, and then I tried pulling the wires out to make sure they were secure, so hopefully Leviton knows what they are talking about and aren't screwing people with their claim that this unit provides "Exclusive V-shaped, serrated back-wiring clamps for superior contact"
 
You are way to laid back, you should stand up and hauler when some one slights anything you say.:thbup:
 
Some things seems to be spoken in in code so if someone some one slights what I said... I'm not sure I would even know.

My main thing is why would a major company say something about one of their products if it were not true?

I also understand the personal preference of doing things a certain way when that's how they have been done for years and years.

I'm a automotive technician by trade and I'm the same way on some stuff related to working on vehicles and sometimes don't want to hear how these young whipper snappers are doing it :cool:

So, apologies to the guys that believe using the screws on the side is the only way to go...
 
Some things seems to be spoken in in code so if someone some one slights what I said... I'm not sure I would even know.

My main thing is why would a major company say something about one of their products if it were not true?

I also understand the personal preference of doing things a certain way when that's how they have been done for years and years.

I'm a automotive technician by trade and I'm the same way on some stuff related to working on vehicles and sometimes don't want to hear how these young whipper snappers are doing it :cool:

So, apologies to the guys that believe using the screws on the side is the only way to go...

I think most people here are just trying to pass along their experience to save other people the time and experience of learning the hard way.

Most of us are used to everything getting cheaper and cheaper and quality going down hill.
I am not sure there are a lot of people that follow the outlet industry close enough to know when there has been a break thru in technology.
 
I am not sure there are a lot of people that follow the outlet industry close enough to know when there has been a break thru in technology

If we can believe what Leviton says about this receptacle, there has been a break through and they call this an exclusive.

So maybe it is yet to be seen if we can trust what Leviton says or not. :hide:
 
If we can believe what Leviton says about this receptacle, there has been a break through and they call this an exclusive.

So maybe it is yet to be seen if we can trust what Leviton says or not. :hide:

I think most things like this have a life some will live longer and some shorter.
So when they are at the end of life something has gone bad.
Maybe it could be the connection. The connections are screws or back stabs.
If a electrician only replaces old outlets that are back stabbed but only sees outlets that are back stabbed he can't really say one is worse or better.

If he finds one in a house that has failed, the rest of the house will also have back stabs with out a problem.
 
Hopefully Leviton knows what they are talking about and aren't screwing people with their claim that this unit provides "Exclusive V-shaped, serrated back-wiring clamps for superior contact"

Like a lot of things I guess, only time will tell...
 
Hopefully Leviton knows what they are talking about and aren't screwing people with their claim that this unit provides "Exclusive V-shaped, serrated back-wiring clamps for superior contact"

Like a lot of things I guess, only time will tell...

Most houses are built with the cheapest of these.
Most people step up a grade when replacing them.
But now I am starting to think you have to be the resident expert as you are likely the only member to research outlets.:)
 
I simply found the outlet on Amazon and read the description that Leviton provided. Pretty sure anybody that had any interest in this sort of thing could have done the same thing if one wants to considee that to be research.

In the automotive repair bidness it is common to look for upgrades and consider whether they perform better and last longer than stock.

If one is going to keep their vehicle long term, then it may be a good idea to do some upgrades. That is the premise I use when looking at anything that may need to be replaced.

I thought surely "medical grade" and "heavy duty" is bound to be a little better than the average wall plug and from what I've read from numerous sources (written by electricians and electrical engineers) these should be better.

So as time passes I guess I'll find out if they are or not.
 
All I know if I stuck the wires in the back, tightened the screws down real good, and then I tried pulling the wires out to make sure they were secure
Krich what they are telling you is accurate, however, these hospital grade receptacles (wall plugs) have pressure plates which is what you described above that you used and not the typical "back stab" as some of the cheaper receptacles have. This is where the confusion lays.

If you go HERE it will show the different types of connections available on a receptacle.

What they have been saying about "back stabs" is absolutely accurate and not advised by any means. But there is a major difference in performance and durability (connection wise).

Although you place a wire into the back of the receptacle for both back stabs and pressure plates they are two totally different things.

A "back stab" is just a lever that holds the wire in place where as a pressure plate you place the conductor in between a pressure plate and the backing and then tighten down the screw which in turn sandwiches the conductor between the two (this is acceptable practice and I am sure this is what your receptacle has). Just the same as in a GFCI (well most of them at least).

Also the hospital grade receptacle will take far longer to wear out than a less expensive brand/type. They are made more rigid to allow more plugging in and pulling he plug out which wears the internal mechanism which may cause loose connection between the plug and receptacle and then may cause heating of the conductors/receptacle.
 
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On another note, changing the receptacle from 15amp to 20amp does not make a 20amp circuit.
You need to be sure it's a dedicated 12AWG wire from the panel to the plug.
 
On another note, changing the receptacle from 15amp to 20amp does not make a 20amp circuit.
You need to be sure it's a dedicated 12AWG wire from the panel to the plug.

yes, correct but I think we are past that.

This is why me trying to follow up on a 3 week old post is so difficult. Have to read all the posts to remember what is going on. (hard to be helpful that way).

Short and simple.

14 gauge conductor (throughout circuit) - max 15 amp breaker.
12 gauage conductor (throughout circuit) - max 20 amp breaker
15 amp breaker 14 gauge conductor - max 15 amp receptacle (no can not put a 20amp receptacle on this circuit)
20 amp breaker 12 gauge conductor - max 20 amp receptacle (15 amp receptacle allowed)
receptacle - "back stab" a no-no (not advisable)
receptacle - pressure plate acceptable (advisable)

wow I am tired!
 
Krich what they are telling you is accurate, however, these hospital grade receptacles (wall plugs) have pressure plates which is what you described above that you used and not the typical "back stab" as some of the cheaper receptacles have. This is where the confusion lays.

If you go HERE it will show the different types of connections available on a receptacle.

What they have been saying about "back stabs" is absolutely accurate and not advised by any means. But there is a major difference in performance and durability (connection wise).

Although you place a wire into the back of the receptacle for both back stabs and pressure plates they are two totally different things.

A "back stab" is just a lever that holds the wire in place where as a pressure plate you place the conductor in between a pressure plate and the backing and then tighten down the screw which in turn sandwiches the conductor between the two (this is acceptable practice and I am sure this is what your receptacle has). Just the same as in a GFCI (well most of them at least).

Also the hospital grade receptacle will take far longer to wear out than a less expensive brand/type. They are made more rigid to allow more plugging in and pulling he plug out which wears the internal mechanism which may cause loose connection between the plug and receptacle and then may cause heating of the conductors/receptacle.


Great post I typed pretty much the same information this morning in post #18.
I sometimes wonder if anyone reads them. Then we have a dozen posts debating something about the manufactures claim to have a good back clamping system that they do have it is clearly the third method I explained this morning and not a backstab.

Your link is a great tutorial if that doesn’t clear it up nothing will.

Again great post. :thbup:
 
Great post I typed pretty much the same information this morning in post #18.
I sometimes wonder if anyone reads them. Then we have a dozen posts debating something about the manufactures claim to have a good back clamping system that they do have it is clearly the third method I explained this morning and not a backstab.

Your link is a great tutorial if that doesn’t clear it up nothing will.

Again great post. :thbup:

Thanks!

Yes, I did see your post #18 but I guess it maybe did not stand out as much as you had hoped; reasoning of my link that I posted.
 
Have you gotten this taken care of ?

If not , since it is on a 20 amp circuit breaker & # 12 wire , I suggest you buy a 20 amp specification grade or commercial spec grade ( some what cheaper ) receptacle .

Hospital grade is not needed & over kill .

As long as nothing else is on that circuit , you should be fine with a 12,000 BTU A/C . I have 3 units running that way .

As for as voltage , best I remember , the receptacles are rater 125 VAC or 250 VAC . And there are a bunch other that you will not be dealing with .

Now , another question . Will you be trying to heat the garage ?

Lastly , consider a ductless mini split A/C if you are going to be running the A/C a lot . You can get mini splits in a lot higher energy efficiency rating and for a few dollars more , a heat pump version that both heats & cools .

They require installation , that may be beyond your skill set or tooling . We installed 2 , one in the living room & one in our bedroom .

Best of luck , :)
Wyr
God bless
 
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