LG LRG3095ST/02 gas range F11 heat error, temperature sensor, ignitor, control board, or something else

[LMHmedchem]

Hello,

I have an LG gas range (model LRG3095ST/02) that is about 7 years old (2014 manufacture year). For a while now I have been getting the F11 heat error when preheating the oven. I understand that this means that it has taken longer than 5 minutes for the oven to reach 150F. For several months, if I would simply restart the pre-heat, the oven will eventually reach temperature. In the beginning, I only had to restart the pre-heat once. Lately it has taken 3 or 4 times.

Yesterday, it simply would not reach temperature at all. I was able to turn on the broiler and get the oven temperature over 200F and then it kicked in and finished heating the rest of the way. Right now, I can't seem to get it up to temperature most of the time, but sometimes it does get there after one restart. Also, from when the oven was new, the oven temperature has been about 20 degrees F higher than it says it is. I understand that this can be adjusted but I never got around to it, partly because I wanted a better thermometer to determine the exact temperature and never got one.

I need to determine what the issue is. My understanding is that it is likely either the ignitor or the temperature sensor. I have been thinking that it is not the ignitor since the broiler will come on with no issue and up until now, the oven would get up to the correct temperature eventually.

For the ignitor, the OE part from LG is $130 and an aftermarket part is $33 to $60.
For the sensor, the OE part from LG is $54 and and aftermarket part is about $22.
There are multiple parts listed for the control board so I am not sure which I would need if that is the problem.

How do I go about determining which part is causing the problem?
Once I know what the issue is, is it a good idea to get an aftermarket part or should I spend the money on a part from LG?
If I need a new control board, which part do I need. There are more than one listed here.

Advice would be greatly appreciated,

LMHmedchem

 

[Snoonyb]

Have you contacted LG customer service?
Are the after-market parts warranted, as the new?
Will you have a service provider install any replacement parts?

 

[LMHmedchem]

Have you contacted LG customer service?
Are the after-market parts warranted, as the new?
Will you have a service provider install any replacement parts?

Thanks for the reply,

I was planning on doing the repairs myself. I don't mind working on a range as long as I am not touching the gas supply or gas valve.

I would have to check on the warranty. I am assuming that there would only be a 30 day warranty to cover parts that are DOA or fail quickly. It might be longer but it's hard to say. Amazon isn't great about posting warranty information. They usually just say to contact the manufacturer, which means there isn't much of a warranty.

I could have a plumber come out to do this but I don't think it would be very difficult since all of these parts are relatively easy to access. Please let me know if you disagree.

I haven't contacted LG since I am guessing that the stove is well out of warranty.

LMHmedchem

 

[Snoonyb]

While doing the repairs yourself, may be fiscal, as well as entrpenurial endeavor, I would contact these folks, to find out if the failures are a known or prevalent failure, and if there are shortcuts in the process of elimination; LG customer service phone numbers and support

 

[LMHmedchem]

I would contact these folks, to find out if the failures are a known or prevalent failure, and if there are shortcuts in the process of elimination; LG customer service phone numbers and support

Thanks, I will do that and see if they have any advice,

Today, I took the oven bottom and burner shield out today so I could watch the ignitor during the preheat cycle. The ignitor does come on and does start glowing.

Here is a picture just after the cycle was started,


The picture is a bit blurry but you can see that the very hot, glowing, part of the ignitor is the middle part of the center of one of the two loops on the element. The bottom loop of the element does not glow at all, nor does the other half of the element that is glowing. Eventually, the rest of the element gets somewhat red, but I assume that is from radiated heat.

This does appear that only part of the element is working but I can't say for sure because I have never a working ignitor in action. At any rate, the gas valve never opens, but that may have been affected by my having the oven door off for the test.

I don't think it would be helpful to ohm test the ignitor for continuity because it obviously can make a circuit. Is that correct, or can I confirm a bad ignitor based on the ohms resistance that it does show (it would show a different value for a bad ignitor than a working one)?

I don't have a clamp-on amp tester so I don't know how I could test how many amps the ignitor is drawing. If the leads had separate connections, I could disconnect one of the leads to insert a DMM and measure the current. I don't know how I could do that with this setup where both leads share the same connector.

I can't see where the connector for the ignitor plugs in under the oven floor plate. Is this easy to access or do I have to pull the oven out from the wall to get to the connector?

Thanks,

LMHmedchem

 

[Snoonyb]

Have you tried any of the on-line repair techs?

https://www.justanswer.com/sip/LG?r...JD0h1m3IWDCWE5HZ9RNB0xRs6WJP1tsMaAtrZEALw_wcB

 

[maxdad118]

Does the broiler share this igniter or do you have separate burners for both? If separate and you said the broiler works I’m betting the oven igniter is bad. The igniter could still glow but be weak, the valve needs xxx amount of micro amps to open- try swapping that out, be careful not to break it, they are fragile.

 

[LMHmedchem]

Does the broiler share this igniter or do you have separate burners for both? If separate and you said the broiler works I’m betting the oven igniter is bad. The igniter could still glow but be weak, the valve needs xxx amount of micro amps to open- try swapping that out, be careful not to break it, they are fragile.

I believe that the broiler has its own ignitor since it has always worked with no issues.

In the end, I did the repair based on this video, which shows the same repair in full. It also showes that you just pull on the connector wire and it pulls out from the bottom of the stove. It actually comes out very easily as there is a reasonable amount of slack on the connecting wire harness.

I also found this video very helpful in that it shows how to disassemble this particular model stove for repairs.

I ordered this ignitor,

Repairwares Gas Range/Oven Igniter MEE61841401 for Select LG Models ($59.99)

and paid an extra $10 or so for fast delivery. The new ignitor arrived the next day.

The new ignitor only took 10-15 minutes to install. The only issue I had is that when I unplugged the old ignitor, I wasn't careful and let the connector wire harness fall back through the hole in the oven floor. I couldn't reach the connector from inside the oven so I had to pull the oven out further and access the wire from the back to push it back out the hole. If I did this again, I would secure the wire harness with a piece of painters tape before disconnecting the ignitor.

At any rate, after the install, the burner came on in less than a minute and it took less than 3 minutes to come up to 350F. The only tools that are needed are a small flat-head to remove the oven door, a regular sized Phillips-head to disassemble everything else, and a reasonable light for inside the oven. For myself, I added a nice big pillow to kneel on and an impact driver to speed up the screwing/unscrewing part.

I will post back if this ignitor fails relatively soon. I really have no idea as to the warranty, as the listing is quite vague on that point. The often means that the warranty is "good luck". The part had a solid rating with a fairly large number of reviews so with any luck I won't need to deal with the warranty.

Thanks for all of the help,

LMHmedchem

 

[maxdad118]

The reason the broiler igniter hasn’t failed yet is because it seldom used compared to the oven.

 

[LMHmedchem]

Do you know if the broiler uses the exact same part for the ignitor or a different part? Repairclinic.com doesn't seem to list a separate part for the broiler ignitor. It seems reasonable that the same part could be used to ignite the broiler since it is doing the exact same thing. The part is called, "Range/Stove/Oven Igniter", so it's odd that the name doesn't include "broiler" if it indeed fits that location as well.

The site also says that if the ignitor glows and the burner doesn't light after 90 seconds, then the ignitor is weak and should be replaced. This is a diagnostic test that I missed, though if the burner did light after 2 minutes or so then I don't think I would be in too much of a hurry to go and get a new part.

I did ohm test the old ignitor after I removed it and it read 298, which is in the correct range for a working part based on what I read. I guess this means that there is no simple way to evaluate the part by testing resistance, unless it registers 0, meaning that there is no complete circuit. Is this correct?

LMHmedchem

 

[maxdad118]

I bet it does, try it! You won’t hurt anything. There should be a part number on the igniter itself. Norton is usually the brand or make. Also it does not matter the wire configuration.