Mini Rollers

House Repair Talk

Help Support House Repair Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

TxHomeowner

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 30, 2013
Messages
116
Reaction score
11
Is there a mini roller that leaves a finish as smooth and good as paint brush? Water based paint. If so, it's name please.
 
A brush finish and roller finish are two distinctly different kinds of finish.
The closest you might come is using a mini-sponge roller.
 
Actually I'm finish sanding then putting another final coat on new custom made base boards. The craftsman that made then painted them originally was distracted by an ongoing medical crisis in his immediate family. I did not have the heart to get upset about the less than great paint finish. For what it's worth this craftsman has been doing our downstairs remodel and all has gone very well. Lot's of custom work. The day of the base board painting is when he knew he was too distracted so we both agreed he should take a week off.
 
Last edited:
As already stated, a brushed finish is different than a rolled finish, the 2 do not intertwine
 
Thanks to you folks I've got 6 of 12 baseboards sanded and a first coat applied. To get the previous finish ready for repainting I used my Boch ortibal palm sander first with 220 grit then 320 grit. Using a Wooster brush made for latex paint I applied a light first coat.

Now I have a new question. Before applying the final coat I belive I should sand the first coat after it is thoroughly dry. Should I do this sanding by hand and what grip and type of sandpaper should I use?
 
I'd sand with 220, or 000 steel-wool, by hand, add flowtrol and apply with a foam roller.
 
I'd sand with 220, or 000 steel-wool, by hand, add flowtrol and apply with a foam roller.
Please help me better understand "add flowtrol". What is flowtrol and add it to what? I assume the foam roller should be a mini roller. Is that correct?

Thanks Snoonyb.
 
Since the white trim paint is to be used in other areas of the remodel is it okay if I pour the estimated amount needed for the baseboards into another can then add the Floetrol to that new container or are you advising me to mix Floetrol into the entire remaining 3/4 gallon of white?

Another question. There are still a second group of 6 pieces of the original baseboard to be sanded and repainted. Are you advising me to use the Floetrol infused white for their first coat? Should I still brush on the first coat or use the roller?
 
When I know that I'm faced with repeated open and close times, I'll add it at the beginning and by all means, roll both coats.

It takes less time to use the correct amount of paint to adequately achieve a surface requiring little or no prep, then it does to stretch the paint and the prep time that necessitates.
 
Personally I would just paint it with a brush, no roller, but if you must roll it I would certainly not be using a foam cover. I would also not be using floetrol, it is rarely needed. Now you are confused.
 
If this is bare wood I sure hope your not trying to use a primmer and paint in one and your priming it first then two coats of paint.
I use an enamel paint for trim, it's a harder paint and makes it easier to just wipe off scuff marks and dirt.
 
Personally I would just paint it with a brush, no roller, but if you must roll it I would certainly not be using a foam cover. I would also not be using floetrol, it is rarely needed. Now you are confused.

Yep! Why not?
 
Update: Because everything is on hand I plan on sanding a final time with 320 grit with my orbital set to 2 or 3 (6 is max).

Comments.
 
Update: Because everything is on hand I plan on sanding a final time with 320 grit with my orbital set to 2 or 3 (6 is max).

Comments.

My preference would be the "feel" of hand sanding, which is voided with a mechanical device.

However, to a broader point, professional finishers will seldom need to employ additives because of the methods used to achieve the end result, in that they they structure the project to reduce the open times, where as often as not, a DIY will not only choose to piece meal the prep and finish work, have numerous other distractions, effecting a corresponding number of opportunities for the viscosity of the paint product to be affected, thus, the additives, FLOETROL for water based and PENETROL for my preferred finish, oil based.
 
My preference would be the "feel" of hand sanding, which is voided with a mechanical device.

However, to a broader point, professional finishers will seldom need to employ additives because of the methods used to achieve the end result, in that they they structure the project to reduce the open times, where as often as not, a DIY will not only choose to piece meal the prep and finish work, have numerous other distractions, effecting a corresponding number of opportunities for the viscosity of the paint product to be affected, thus, the additives, FLOETROL for water based and PENETROL for my preferred finish, oil based.
Agreed. My problem is my health. I essentially have full use of one arm plus have Epilepsy so these challenges reduce my energy. I much prefer hand sanding when the project is not to big. In this case there are 12 8'X6"X1" routered poplar boards. I've got plenty of time so you have encouraged me give them a last sanding by hand. Is a sponge sanding pad okay? What grit?
 
Forgot to mention. Just for fun I am going to paint one board using my trusty brush, one with a sponge roller and one with a wide trim pad. Last night I read articles promoting all three. I'm very curious to discover which provides the true best finish. All of my cabinet and other wood work painting in years pas was with high quality brushes. This is the first time I've painting in a very long time. The paint will remain unaltered.

Will report the results in a few days.

Thank you.
Louis
 
Back
Top