New deck stair stringer footing and pad poured between existing walkway and deck posts

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fooyay

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Hey everyone. I'll do my best to explain this.

BLUF:

I poured a small 3.5" deep pad, and 12" deep footer for some deck steps. I used expansion joint strip material between the new pad and the existing walkway, BUT the pad is flush against a few of the deck's 4x4 support posts on the opposite side, which are sunk in concrete in-ground. I am concerned about possible expansion of the new pad toward the deck, causing issues with the 4x4 posts. Also concerned about cracking elsewhere and learning how I could have done it better for next time.

Detailed background:

I have a floating deck with in-ground posts in concrete footings, built before we bought the house. The stringers from the deck's steps were previously sitting on bare ground and had sunk about 3-5" or so over the years. There is a pre-existing 3.5" thick sidewalk/landing in front of the steps. The rail posts (4x4's) of the deck steps were sunk in concrete, but had warped dramatically and I decided to pull them out to redo them while I was redoing other parts of the deck.

Prep:

Once the steps were removed, my plan was to pour a proper footing for them (12" thick x 12" deep x ~70" wide), and a 3.5" thick pad connected to the footing going back toward the deck, just to keep things tidy. We have dogs, and they tend to run behind the deck steps and dig, which is a nuisance, causes water pooling, etc. We could have just blocked off the steps, but figured if I was doing concrete anyway I might as well do the pad.

I've never done much concrete, so I spent some time googling and figured that other than the footing, this would mostly be cosmetic and not be a huge problem if I screwed it up (the steps would eventually cover 90% of it, anyway), and no matter what, it would hopefully be better than it was before, at least structurally.

I pulled the 4x4 posts with a farm jack, dug the trench for the footing, and excavated the area for the pad, flush up to the existing deck posts, and out a bit into the existing sidewalk to be able to tie it in a little more neatly. I added a compacted 4" base of gravel (ABC). I used wire mesh for the pad, and I used rebar in a way I figured made the most sense to me, based on some googling. I now understand rebar doesn't do much with regard to preventing cracks, so some of my work in this respect was likely misguided. I also added an expansion strip between the new pad and the old walkway.

Rebar:
  • Two horizontal pieces at the bottom of the stringer footer
  • 1 horizontal piece near the top of the stringer footer, bent @ 90 degrees down into the excavated post-hole
  • 1 horizontal piece spanning from the back of the pad (near the deck) into the "outcrop" piece joining the new pad to the pre-existing walkway.
New Pour:

Originally I had thought about pouring the pad completely around the deck posts, but was concerned with heaving/movement. After the fact, I've learned a better way of doing this, framing a "diamond" around the posts and filling it in after, but alas...

So this was all done in one pour, from deepest to shallowest:
  • Filled in post-hole from old post - approx 12"x12"x24" depth
  • New Stringer footing, adjacent to post hole - approx 12"x70"x12" depth
  • New Pad - approx 40"x70"x3.5" depth
  • Small "outcrop" to cosmetically connect new pour to pre-existing walkway
My mix was pretty dry, unfortunately. I knew better, but I was following the directions on the bags. Regardless I think it will be ok, but I wasn't able to float it neatly at all, or get very nice edges. Not a problem, since it will almost entirely be covered.

Pictures can probably explain it better. I don't plan on redoing any of it unless there's a critical issue, but I am interested in learning what I could have done differently, and/or if there's anything I can do now after the fact to make things better, especially with regard to the butting surfaces between the new pad and the deck posts.

QUESTIONS:

  1. Any critical issues?
  2. What could I have done better? A different order of pour?
    1. Are the various depths a problem? i.e. having the deep post hole "connected" to the shallower footing, connected to the even shallower pad and "outcrop". Do these different pour depths create stresses that generally should be avoided? What would be the better way to do it?
  3. I have expansion material between the new pad and the old walkway, but not between the new pad and the pre-existing deck posts. There are 4 posts I am concerned about, totaling about 14" of total contact surface. Should I be concerned about this? If so, is there anything I can do after the fact to address this?
  4. I assume the skinny "outcrop" is ripe for cracking. I forgot to put a control joint running parallel to the expansion strip (see pic). Can I cut a control joint there after the concrete has cured (about 72 hour post-pour as of this writing)?
  5. Bonus question: The mix was too dry. I wasn't able to float/finish it very well at all. I'm not too concerned with the cosmetics since it will all be covered, but can I use a bonding primer and float a new finish on top later down the road if I were so inclined?
Thanks for bearing with me and taking the time to help a newbie out. I hope I explained it all well enough.
 

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Hey everyone. I'll do my best to explain this.

BLUF:

I poured a small 3.5" deep pad, and 12" deep footer for some deck steps. I used expansion joint strip material between the new pad and the existing walkway, BUT the pad is flush against a few of the deck's 4x4 support posts on the opposite side, which are sunk in concrete in-ground. I am concerned about possible expansion of the new pad toward the deck, causing issues with the 4x4 posts. Also concerned about cracking elsewhere and learning how I could have done it better for next time.

Detailed background:

I have a floating deck with in-ground posts in concrete footings, built before we bought the house. The stringers from the deck's steps were previously sitting on bare ground and had sunk about 3-5" or so over the years. There is a pre-existing 3.5" thick sidewalk/landing in front of the steps. The rail posts (4x4's) of the deck steps were sunk in concrete, but had warped dramatically and I decided to pull them out to redo them while I was redoing other parts of the deck.

Prep:

Once the steps were removed, my plan was to pour a proper footing for them (12" thick x 12" deep x ~70" wide), and a 3.5" thick pad connected to the footing going back toward the deck, just to keep things tidy. We have dogs, and they tend to run behind the deck steps and dig, which is a nuisance, causes water pooling, etc. We could have just blocked off the steps, but figured if I was doing concrete anyway I might as well do the pad.

I've never done much concrete, so I spent some time googling and figured that other than the footing, this would mostly be cosmetic and not be a huge problem if I screwed it up (the steps would eventually cover 90% of it, anyway), and no matter what, it would hopefully be better than it was before, at least structurally.

I pulled the 4x4 posts with a farm jack, dug the trench for the footing, and excavated the area for the pad, flush up to the existing deck posts, and out a bit into the existing sidewalk to be able to tie it in a little more neatly. I added a compacted 4" base of gravel (ABC). I used wire mesh for the pad, and I used rebar in a way I figured made the most sense to me, based on some googling. I now understand rebar doesn't do much with regard to preventing cracks, so some of my work in this respect was likely misguided. I also added an expansion strip between the new pad and the old walkway.

Rebar:
  • Two horizontal pieces at the bottom of the stringer footer
  • 1 horizontal piece near the top of the stringer footer, bent @ 90 degrees down into the excavated post-hole
  • 1 horizontal piece spanning from the back of the pad (near the deck) into the "outcrop" piece joining the new pad to the pre-existing walkway.
New Pour:

Originally I had thought about pouring the pad completely around the deck posts, but was concerned with heaving/movement. After the fact, I've learned a better way of doing this, framing a "diamond" around the posts and filling it in after, but alas...

So this was all done in one pour, from deepest to shallowest:
  • Filled in post-hole from old post - approx 12"x12"x24" depth
  • New Stringer footing, adjacent to post hole - approx 12"x70"x12" depth
  • New Pad - approx 40"x70"x3.5" depth
  • Small "outcrop" to cosmetically connect new pour to pre-existing walkway
My mix was pretty dry, unfortunately. I knew better, but I was following the directions on the bags. Regardless I think it will be ok, but I wasn't able to float it neatly at all, or get very nice edges. Not a problem, since it will almost entirely be covered.

Pictures can probably explain it better. I don't plan on redoing any of it unless there's a critical issue, but I am interested in learning what I could have done differently, and/or if there's anything I can do now after the fact to make things better, especially with regard to the butting surfaces between the new pad and the deck posts.

QUESTIONS:

  1. Any critical issues?
  2. What could I have done better? A different order of pour?
    1. Are the various depths a problem? i.e. having the deep post hole "connected" to the shallower footing, connected to the even shallower pad and "outcrop". Do these different pour depths create stresses that generally should be avoided? What would be the better way to do it?
  3. I have expansion material between the new pad and the old walkway, but not between the new pad and the pre-existing deck posts. There are 4 posts I am concerned about, totaling about 14" of total contact surface. Should I be concerned about this? If so, is there anything I can do after the fact to address this?
  4. I assume the skinny "outcrop" is ripe for cracking. I forgot to put a control joint running parallel to the expansion strip (see pic). Can I cut a control joint there after the concrete has cured (about 72 hour post-pour as of this writing)?
  5. Bonus question: The mix was too dry. I wasn't able to float/finish it very well at all. I'm not too concerned with the cosmetics since it will all be covered, but can I use a bonding primer and float a new finish on top later down the road if I were so inclined?
Thanks for bearing with me and taking the time to help a newbie out. I hope I explained it all well enough.
I didn't want to post finished pics because honestly I'm embarassed by the end result.

I tried my damndest to float it smooth, but it was just not happening. Eventually it started to set, and I was doing more harm than good. I know in the future to mix based on reality, and not based on bag instructions.

I also forgot to note that there is a small portion of the new pad that butts against the old walkway where apparently I did NOT use an expansion strip.

Here are the pics.
 

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Well, if you'd stopped by prior, I'd had advise you to add a bit more water to the bag mix and to have rented a tamp, which is used to force the aggregate deeper in the pour, allowing the cream to come to the top, facilitating and easier to finish pour. there a number of surface epoxies that can be used to smooth the surface. Were it I, I would rent a 7" sander and smooth the area.

Forget the control joint cut, bad Idea.
 
Well, if you'd stopped by prior, I'd had advise you to add a bit more water to the bag mix and to have rented a tamp, which is used to force the aggregate deeper in the pour, allowing the cream to come to the top, facilitating and easier to finish pour. there a number of surface epoxies that can be used to smooth the surface. Were it I, I would rent a 7" sander and smooth the area.

Forget the control joint cut, bad Idea.

Thanks. Ok, so don't cut the control joint. And yeah, I know the wetter mix would have saved some headache. I'll consider those options for finishing you mentioned.

Any other options for preventing cracks at the skinny protrusion?

Are my concerns about the main issues overblown? (The interface between the new pour and the old walkway, and the deck posts).

Hoping I'm making a mountain of a molehill.
 
The wedge shape may eventually crack and separate slightly, however to have mitigated that you could have doweled in some #10 wire.

That small area isn't likely to expand sufficiently to affect those posts, and instead of the expansion joint, I'd have stopped the pour 1/2" from the posts.
 
The wedge shape may eventually crack and separate slightly, however to have mitigated that you could have doweled in some #10 wire.

That small area isn't likely to expand sufficiently to affect those posts, and instead of the expansion joint, I'd have stopped the pour 1/2" from the posts.
I do have a piece of rebar running horizontally from the deck-side of the pad through that wedge shape. Not sure if that's what you mean - tried to illustrate it in the pics where it is.

Yeah I think I should have just built my forms up against the deck posts instead of in between them. Then I'd be offset by about 1.5" and be fine there. I think I decided against doing that because I didnt think I'd be able to remove the forms afterward, but I realize now that wouldn't have been an issue.

So other than the wedge shape cracking possibly, no big concerns with expansion up against the posts? That's comforting to hear.

Any issues you see with pouring all those different depths, or should I be ok there? Appreciate your responses.
 
There is an adversity in the rebar extending into the wedge and that is the "cost" factor, which in generic terms means how far the reinforcement is separated from adjoining items such as excavation, forms and abutments. That "cost" is 2" from or relieved of or separated from, so when it it lass there isn't enough concrete surrounding that reinforcement to bind, because of the size of the aggregate, in the concrete.

Doweling is a process where a hole is drilled into an existing pour, an epoxy is inserted into the hole and then the reinforcement product is inserted and extended into the formed area. In raised foundations it's a 6" dowel extending 24" min. into the formed cavity.

Generally, the the difficulty when using bagged mix comes if there is a lengthy time delay between mixes, and that's cold joints, were the previous for is allowed to set up before a new pour is added. they tend to not meld, but dry separately.
 
There is an adversity in the rebar extending into the wedge and that is the "cost" factor, which in generic terms means how far the reinforcement is separated from adjoining items such as excavation, forms and abutments. That "cost" is 2" from or relieved of or separated from, so when it it lass there isn't enough concrete surrounding that reinforcement to bind, because of the size of the aggregate, in the concrete.

Doweling is a process where a hole is drilled into an existing pour, an epoxy is inserted into the hole and then the reinforcement product is inserted and extended into the formed area. In raised foundations it's a 6" dowel extending 24" min. into the formed cavity.


Generally, the the difficulty when using bagged mix comes if there is a lengthy time delay between mixes, and that's cold joints, were the previous for is allowed to set up before a new pour is added. they tend to not meld, but dry separately.
That makes sense, I think. I did try to keep at least 2" on all sides when it came to the rebar, but I see your point.

I got most of the pour done pretty quickly. I was fortunate to have a mixer that could take (2) 80# bags at a time, so it was fairly quick, even though the mix was too dry... so hopefully cold joints won't be an issue for me.

If my concerns with expansion against the deck posts and the adjoining pad/walkway are overdone, and there's not much else I can do prevention-wise at this point, then I think I'll probably just leave everything alone and get the steps built back up. Maybe I'll come back in the future and clean it up.

Above all, I spent a lot of time rehabbing the deck, and didn't want all that work jeopardized by the new pad knocking some of the deck posts off-kilter!
 
Something to keep in mind when building the ladder way is that anything greater than 2 risers requires a handrail, however, there are also max. equal riser heights, as well as min. tread widths.
 
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