Jeff Handy
Well-Known Member
They can drill into the sides of the concrete and add rebar pins set in epoxy, which will then tie into the new section.
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Flyover
Trying not to screw things up worse
tomtheelder2020
Well-Known Member
The first 7 years of my career was working for a soils engineering firm practicing almost exclusively in residential construction. Our foundation design reports ALWAYS specified that slab reinforcement must be supported at mid-slab height before the concrete was poured. I cored about 15-20 slabs investigating distressed foundations and in every case the wire mesh was at the base of the slab - even cases where the slab was fine but we drilled to investigate soil underneath. I personally observed concrete workers "hooking" the mesh to pull it up into the wet concrete (how accurate do you think that is?) then walking back across the wet pour! I don't doubt that it is possible to pull reinforcement up into the concrete so that the slab is adequately reinforced - but I would bet the success rate is very low.
tomtheelder2020
Well-Known Member
Was it dry (low humidity) as well as hot*? If so, extra water might have added to the mix - which might have led to excess shrinkage. The mix was likely specified by the contractor so you might ask the concrete company what mix (percentages of cement, sand, aggregate, water) was specified. Your City or County building inspector might give you some insight into possible causes of the problem.
*In Sacramento Valley summers, we consider 90 degrees a moderate day and lots of concrete gets poured at temps of 100+. Question for others: on a hot, humid day, can lack of evaporation result in excessive heat of hydration that leads to problems with the concrete?
*In Sacramento Valley summers, we consider 90 degrees a moderate day and lots of concrete gets poured at temps of 100+. Question for others: on a hot, humid day, can lack of evaporation result in excessive heat of hydration that leads to problems with the concrete?
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zannej
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My driveway in California was much shorter than that and it had expansion gaps and some sort of rubber stuff every few feet. That might be regional and might have to do with Cali getting earthquakes.
Down here we had concrete poured. they built the framing and then put in metal mesh. While the concrete was being poured they did used a hook to pull the mesh up a bit more. They also piled dirt a bit higher in the middle. Granted, I don't know if that is the proper way to do things.
From what I understand of the process, the mixture reacts with the water and heats up. It has to cool to cure fully. Foundations are supposed to cure for 30 days. I don't know if this cracked because of heat and not being able to cool off enough, if it didn't have proper support, or if it needed expansion gaps or if it was a bad mix. But I absolutely would not be happy with a crack like that in a brand new driveway. Talk to other contractors in the area and ask for their feedback and get estimates no repair for it and then get back to the original contractor about a remedy.
Down here we had concrete poured. they built the framing and then put in metal mesh. While the concrete was being poured they did used a hook to pull the mesh up a bit more. They also piled dirt a bit higher in the middle. Granted, I don't know if that is the proper way to do things.
From what I understand of the process, the mixture reacts with the water and heats up. It has to cool to cure fully. Foundations are supposed to cure for 30 days. I don't know if this cracked because of heat and not being able to cool off enough, if it didn't have proper support, or if it needed expansion gaps or if it was a bad mix. But I absolutely would not be happy with a crack like that in a brand new driveway. Talk to other contractors in the area and ask for their feedback and get estimates no repair for it and then get back to the original contractor about a remedy.
acuman1212
New Member
At the very least your contractor should seal the crack since it happened right after the pouring. That will prevent ongoing damage to the driveway. If they don't do that, you can try reporting them on Angi's List or badcontractor.com.My fiancé and I just had a contractor install a new driveway, the main contractor installed the form and he used a cement subcontractor, poured the driveway mid-morning on a Friday, it was a windy/hot day that reached a high of approximately 93 degrees in the afternoon.
The contractor finished around 2-2:30pm and had sprayed the completed driveway with a garden hose a few times after they had swept it, no expansion joints had been installed during the pour. He mentioned that I could spray it a few times to help it stay cooler. I went out at 3:30pm (to spray) and discovered a large crack that ran the entire width of the driveway. I informed the contractor and he said he would be out Monday morning to inspect it and "cut the lines (wet cut). I asked him if this meant expansion joints and if these should have been done during the pour or soon after (within 24 hrs) but he did not respond.
The contractor came out Monday with a saw and wet cut the lines in the driveway. Needless to say I was not happy that my brand new driveway had a crack the entire length of the driveway. The contractor and subcontractor both said this can sometimes happen.... I asked what the options were to correct and of course they said not really anything could be done, I responded with what about cutting out that section and re-pouring.... of course this involves more time / cost on their part and the main contractor said he would not do that.... I responded that I'm not paying top dollar for a new driveway that had a crack the entire width. I realize concrete can/will crack but nothing this major on a new driveway and I expect problems down the road, much earlier than I should have to deal with considering a new driveway.
I was hoping for thoughts from knowledgeable concrete people, I'd certainly appreciate feedback and suggestions on how to proceed since the contractor is saying that there's nothing they will do and I pretty much have to accept it as it is. I have attached some pics.
Frustrated new driveway owner
BvilleBound
Well-Known Member
This is a classic example of bad concrete placement. No planned expansion joints (???!!!) in their plan?
I hope you didn't pay the contractor.
This very basic error raises, of course, many related issues. How was the ground prepared for the concrete? How thick is the concrete? What PSI rating did the concrete have? What reinforcement was installed? For example see:
Concrete Driveway Construction - Thickness, Rebar & More - Concrete Network
Driveways
I hope you didn't pay the contractor.
This very basic error raises, of course, many related issues. How was the ground prepared for the concrete? How thick is the concrete? What PSI rating did the concrete have? What reinforcement was installed? For example see:
Concrete Driveway Construction - Thickness, Rebar & More - Concrete Network
Driveways
21 years ago I had a 78ft x 45ft driveway poured at one of my old houses in PA. I hired a pretty well known commercial concrete guy, who did lots of local strip malls, sidewalks, and driveways. (I knew him and knew his work because we used him where I worked).
I ripped up the old brick driveway, or at least what was left of it myself and did the rough leveling before he began.
He and four guys spent a full day prepping and grading the driveway, including putting in a drain basin and grate between the garage floor and the driveway so water couldn't pool there and run under the door.
He had an interesting way of setting the forms and the mesh. He had pre-made a few hundred rebar "Y" fixtures which he set in the ground with a bit of concrete the day before the pour. Once they set, he came in and laid the coated wire mesh in place atop those stands. He tied the mesh to the stands. There were 12 expansion joints, not saw cuts The joint where the slab met the curb had a steel grid.
They poured and worked the concrete with all hands on deck the second day. About 8 hours after the pour, just before they were ready to leave, the last 60" apron section cracked across one corner. He never asked, never said a word other than he'll be back tomorrow to fix that section.
He busted it up, and re-poured it. When he handed me the invoice, it was minus $700 for the inconvenience. While he was at it all, he even fixed a handful of loose bricks on my front porch step and he poured me a concrete slab for my air conditioning compressor because he had extra that was going to waste if he didn't use it. I ended up with a series of foot steps back to my shed, a small pad by my mailbox, and he poured a small pad where my trash cans could sit next to the garage, all at no charge.
I realize that's not likely the norm but his doing all that certainly made certain it was him I called for any more work in the future. (He ended up getting 3 more driveway jobs, two sheds, and a garage floor to do in the same neighborhood that summer).
I lived there for 8 more years, and a relative lives there now, that driveway never cracked again, and still looks like the day it was poured 21 years ago.
I ripped up the old brick driveway, or at least what was left of it myself and did the rough leveling before he began.
He and four guys spent a full day prepping and grading the driveway, including putting in a drain basin and grate between the garage floor and the driveway so water couldn't pool there and run under the door.
He had an interesting way of setting the forms and the mesh. He had pre-made a few hundred rebar "Y" fixtures which he set in the ground with a bit of concrete the day before the pour. Once they set, he came in and laid the coated wire mesh in place atop those stands. He tied the mesh to the stands. There were 12 expansion joints, not saw cuts The joint where the slab met the curb had a steel grid.
They poured and worked the concrete with all hands on deck the second day. About 8 hours after the pour, just before they were ready to leave, the last 60" apron section cracked across one corner. He never asked, never said a word other than he'll be back tomorrow to fix that section.
He busted it up, and re-poured it. When he handed me the invoice, it was minus $700 for the inconvenience. While he was at it all, he even fixed a handful of loose bricks on my front porch step and he poured me a concrete slab for my air conditioning compressor because he had extra that was going to waste if he didn't use it. I ended up with a series of foot steps back to my shed, a small pad by my mailbox, and he poured a small pad where my trash cans could sit next to the garage, all at no charge.
I realize that's not likely the norm but his doing all that certainly made certain it was him I called for any more work in the future. (He ended up getting 3 more driveway jobs, two sheds, and a garage floor to do in the same neighborhood that summer).
I lived there for 8 more years, and a relative lives there now, that driveway never cracked again, and still looks like the day it was poured 21 years ago.
I can't say for sure, but he was 'beyond' normal retirement age back then. I moved 800 miles away and lost touch with most back there over the years. If he's still around, he'd be well into his 80's or older now.
Sadly, that generation and their way of doing business is slowly going away simply due to old age.
Another method of holding a sloping concrete slab in place on a hill was to give it several footings below the frost line much like the concrete pilings poured to support a deck. I had seen them do that with a few slabs where they would see heavy truck traffic daily. They used sonotubes and poured multiple footings to secure the slab and prevent 'sliding' down grade. Each tube also had either iron or fiberglass reinforcement rods as well. He used a lot of coated and fiberglass reinforcement in the concrete then, I was told it prevented rust expansion as the concrete aged.
I would hate to be the guy who had to tear up some of the pours that guy did. between the amount of reinforcement and the type of fiberglass mixed concrete he used, demolition would be a nightmare without heavy equipment.
by the book
in my area what i know is that a drive way gravel (2 1/2-3/4 ) several inches should be compacted for 6 months before being poured. during this time the home owner should park on it as much as possible. then it should be compacted again with a jumping jack . then 4 x 4 mesh and poly , installed the concrete poured. and left to set for and kept wet for 21 days . then you are good to go.
in my area what i know is that a drive way gravel (2 1/2-3/4 ) several inches should be compacted for 6 months before being poured. during this time the home owner should park on it as much as possible. then it should be compacted again with a jumping jack . then 4 x 4 mesh and poly , installed the concrete poured. and left to set for and kept wet for 21 days . then you are good to go.
zannej
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Man, and here they "pave"t the public roads going over the road with a roller thingy to pack the dirt (it's a tractor thingy with a roller on it), pour some oil over the surface, pour lime/crushed limestone over the top, and go back over it again with the roller thingy, then they have to come back to pack tar in to the pot holes that develop in a few days. But, that's a street, not a driveway.
