Wish I could hire a pro for this. We do have someone who is assisting with jacking up the house but I haven’t spoken to him in regards to what we’re replacing the bricks with.Post some pics showing a wider, farther back view.
It seems like these old brick piles are supporting beams in your crawl space.
Are they just resting on dirt?
Ideally, you would excavate down a foot or so, tamp the bottom of the hole firmly, and pour a square or round concrete base about a foot or more across, then you can install a steel jack post pillar on that, with an adjustable screw to tighten or raise up as needed.
The top of the post will have a square steel plate that can screw into the bottom of the beam for stability.
If pouring concrete is not possible, you could excavate a square hole a foot deep and about a foot and a half wide, tamp the soil firm, flat, and level, then fill the hole with a stack of heavy one foot square paver blocks with wire mesh inside them.
Backfill firmly around the blocks, make the stack a little higher than the soil level.
Then install the jack posts.
You will need two posts, or another system of support, where you have half lapped beams resting on a brick pile.
You will need to install temporary jack posts on both sides of the old bricks piles, to be able to remove them and install new supports.
This whole process is very dangerous, a beam could easily collapse and cause structural damage, or could crush and kill you down there.
You should hire a pro for this project.
Thanks for the response Joe.All my company did for about 15 years was work on 100 plus year old houses and repaired things Like I'm seeing in those pictures all the time.
In your case the first thing I would do is treat for Powder Post Beetles, that's what all those ice pick sized holes are.
Next I would figure out how many piers I was going to be replacing to figure out how much concrete, rebar, solid block and steel plates I was going to need.
Next we would make up 24" X 24" X 6" pressure treated frames to act as forms for the concrete.
Dig out some 6" deep pits for the forms to set in making sure the frame sat level.
(There is no need to remove any of the old forms at this time.
A hoe with the handle cut off, or one of those folding Army shovels works for this.
To get the concrete under there we would use a mixing pan with a strong rope on each end, one for pulling it in, one for pulling it back out.
We would put 4 pieces of 1/2" rebar in the middle of the pore.
To get the blocks under there I had a flat cart that I also attached rope to.
I made the forms 24 x 24 for several reasons, #1, It gave them enough foot print that I knew they would not sink much. #2, It gave me a wide enough area to set a bottle jack if it needed lifting without being in the way of the blocks.
Do not use wood as a shim, use 1/2" steel plates!
Only use solid blocks, there is no need to mortar them in place, I'd never lay just a single row stack of them.
Trying to use one of those preform pads will just crack if you try to use a jack on it.
When using the bottle jack make sure there's a thick steel where the piston touchs the wood or it will just crush the wood.
I did have an inspection. He told me and wrote it up as no foundation issues.No inspection was does before you bought this place?
No treatment is going to fix damage done already, it will just help future damage.
99% of moisture issues needs to be addressed outside of the foundation not under the house once the damage has been done.
There's just no way anyone can advise you on what needs to be replaced without being on site, anything else is just a well meaning guess.